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tips/tricks for e-fan install?

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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 10:29 AM
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clonetek's Avatar
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tips/tricks for e-fan install?

about to go bang my head on the truck for a few hours.. thats what my "modding" usually turns out to be..
i always seem to break something.. i hope it's not too expensive this time.

anyway, anyone have any tips or tricks for installing the JDM electric fan / cobra r waterpump?

i have the instructions, but wanted to know if there was anything to make my time any easier...

thanks in advance!!!

Brooks

 
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 10:45 AM
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Dan SS2471's Avatar
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From: New Jersey
Booze and guns and chicks and fireworks and drugs and more booze.

I don't really have any tips on installing the e-fan. One thing I can say is that fitment on mine is VERY nice. I had to remove it last week when installing the lower pulley. It fits nicely into the lower clips and aligns up nicely with the top mounting holes. Only thing I had to do was disconnect the top trans cooler line on the driver-side. The nice thing about it is that's it light, so you're not killing yourself trying keep it lifted up while lowering it into place.

Good luck with the install(s).

Dan
 

Last edited by Dan SS2471; Apr 22, 2003 at 10:52 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 10:47 AM
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i just happen to have a paper bag full of fireworks in the garage from new years... lol


back to work... thanks
 
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 11:38 AM
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From: On the side of the Road attempting to explain 135 miles per hour
You don't have to remove the tranny cooler line.

Have a large catch pan, towels, and be ready to GTF outta the way when removing the plug in the block.

Leave the belt on the water pump when loosening/tightening the bolts.

chime in if you need help.

Bob
 
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 11:48 AM
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Here is what I sent to JDM after installing my e-fan kit last Labor Day. They may have incorperated some of these into the instructions since then.

Comments on JDM Engineering Electric Fan Kit & Water Pump Installation Manual after installation on 1999 Lightning on 9/2/02:

Page 2, Tools Required:
Add various length extensions and a rubber mallet. I didn’t need a wire crimper or heat source.

Page 3, Picture of Electrical Components:
I didn’t get items 1 and 8 and the two wiring harnesses (Items 6 & 11) were attached at the Relay Connectors so they appeared as one piece to me.

Page 4, Installation Instructions:
I worked my way through architecture school in the ‘70’s as a Volvo mechanic (ASE Master Mechanic certification) and have continued to work on vehicles ever since (much to my wife’s consternation). Although the instructions were very good and I have every tool needed, I would not classify what I did yesterday as ‘very easy’, nor were the instructions ‘simple’.

Page 5, Item 3:
Before removing the radiator cover, I removed the jack/spare tire crank handle and set it aside. None of the Phillip’s head screws backed out for me. I had to use a knife to lift them as I turned which was a PITA and left many witness marks. Not your problem, but it took me ~30 minutes.

Page 12, Item 22:
At this point it seemed easier to remove the supercharger belt to get better access before loosening the water pump bolts.

Page 13, after Item 29:
Here I replaced the supercharger belt.

Page 14, Item 32:
I reinstalled the Intercooler Coolant Reservoir at this point but had to take it off again to get access when I was securing the Electric Fan Power Harness. Can it be left hanging until Item 88 as indicated there?

Page 14, after Item 32:
There was no Wiring Schematic included (although it would have helped).

Page 16, after Item 37:
Again, my wiring harnesses were attached at the Relay Connectors so it was a bit confusing.

Page 18, Item 40:
I only had a single short red wire (coming out of the Relay Connectors). Also, something should be mentioned here about routing the Electric Fan Power Harness.

Page 19, before Item 41:
At this point it would have been better to attach the ground wires to the firewall as I had to remove the Relay Connectors later to get access.

Page 19, Item 43:
You should make it clear here that both the relays are the same and it doesn’t matter which side they are installed on. The ‘respective’ threw me off.

Page 20, Item 49:
I had to remove some of the top too as it crimped the wires when I tried to close the box. A triangular file helped smooth the edges so they wouldn’t cut the wires.

Page 22, Item 53:
I think you mean blue wire here as the gray wire was attached in the prior operation. It is a little unclear which receptacle the A/C wire goes into, I assumed it was the back-right from the photo (and it worked!).

Page 23, Item 54:
My terminal adapters were already connected to the blue and gray wires. This was great except that I had to bend them considerably to get them to fit around the relays, and getting the A/C relay back in place was VERY difficult as there wasn’t enough room for the connector next to the side of the fuse box. Also, I had to bunch the extra wire inside the fuse box, not pretty.

Page 23, Item 56:
‘find the small plastic mounting tab within the shroud (as seen above)’? I couldn’t find the tab. Is it ‘inside’ the shroud? Does this mean I have to remove the shroud from the radiator to find it? Also, I can’t find the ‘as seen above’ on my sheet, the photo is of the fuse box.

Page 23, Item 58:
Again, this wire was already connected to the relay connector on mine, so this confused me.

Pages 26 & 27, Items 69 - 72:
My grounding screw, where the smaller wire from the negative battery terminal attached to the firewall, was behind the newly installed relay connector (which was installed exactly as shown in the picture). I had to remove the relay connector to add the two wires on this screw. This would have been easier if done before the relay connector was installed.

Page 28, Item 77:
Ha! If it had only been so easy. And the splash of coolant to the face was so refreshing!

Page 29, Items 82 - 87:
My wire had an eyelet and boot attached. The boot would not hold onto the sensor, like one or the other was not made for that application. It’s just dangling loose, what should I do?

Page 29, Item 88:
Reinstallation of the coolant and jack/spare tire crank handle need to be added.

Is there some sort of checkout that needs to be done? My fan came on with the A/C, so OK there (except that there is now a definite vibration at idle, only when the A/C is on). I ran it up and down a good sized hill several times with the A/C off trying to heat it up to the point where the sensor would turn on the fan, no joy. Even though it was a hot and humid evening, I thought maybe the high speeds were flowing enough air to keep the temp down, so I let it idle in my driveway for half an hour, still no joy. How do I make sure the temperature sensor will turn on the fan?

Since I wrote the above, I have the following additional comments:

1) The temp sensor started working fine. The fan cycles on and off regularly.

2) Be careful when working around the starter solenoid, I almost drilled into a wiring harness. I also must have loosened a wire as my truck wouldn't crank one day this winter and I finally checked under there and found one not seated fully on its stud.

3) I had to turn the heat higher this winter to stay comfortable as the coolant temprature is lower. On a -30 morning up north, it wouldn't keep my windshield clear on full tilt defrost.

Good luck! I like mine.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 11:58 AM
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Speedin Bob: thanks! i'm sure my "cat like reflexs" will come into play.. *bonk* i'll look for my nose/ear plugs from changing the fuel filter...

DHFerguson
 

Last edited by clonetek; Apr 22, 2003 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 12:06 PM
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Remove the waterpump and fan as one unit. you will need to remove the shroud at the same time with the pump and fan. Gettingt hat fan off usally is a b*tch and waste time.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 12:07 PM
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thats a good idea!
 
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 12:18 PM
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Steps 44 and 45: Instead of pulling the cowling off to run the wires over to the fuse box use a wire hanger. Straighten the hanger and push it through the cowling from the driver's side to the passenger side. Once it's through, take the wire loom that you need to run to the fuse box and tape it to the hanger with electrical tape. Pull the wire hanger back through and the wire loom will come with it - you may have to wiggle it in the event it gets caught on something. This will allow you to run the wire loom through the cowling without having to remove it thereby saving some time and negating the chance of you breaking the friction-plug connector as mentioned in the directions. It works like a champ and I have used this trick on all four JDM fans that I have installed.

Dan
 
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Old Apr 22, 2003 | 05:21 PM
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well, that was fun...

 
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Old Apr 23, 2003 | 11:12 AM
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the e-fan/waterpump install went well... i only cut myself once..
did it while trying to break loose the fan from the pump shaft..

i found that i could wedge a long screwdriver between the supercharger idler pulleys and the point thru the bolts for the waterpump pulley, to give myself another hand on the wrench for the fan... took 4-5 tugs till it popped and i hit my elbow on the tray that the airbox sits on..

i found a lot of buildup around the lower transmission line where it goes into the radiator housing.. it looked like it was leaking. i tightened it up as best i could..

i took the upper radiator hose off to get the fan shroud off, instead of taking the upper tranny line off...


the wiring was a snap.. the kit is great!!! i love it!


 
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