Do Traction Bars Help on Street Too?
I know traction bars are good for launching with slicks at the strip, but do they help stock Goodyears on the street too? Or will the tires spin before traction bars have a chance to help?
Another question. I have always heard that traction bars make the L ride like hell on the street, but I have been told that most units can be adjusted to where I won't notice them on bumps, etc. What's the concensus? Traction bars = good for launching, but not good for handling? Are they a PITA over bumps on bad roads?
Thanks!
Another question. I have always heard that traction bars make the L ride like hell on the street, but I have been told that most units can be adjusted to where I won't notice them on bumps, etc. What's the concensus? Traction bars = good for launching, but not good for handling? Are they a PITA over bumps on bad roads?
Thanks!
Jay Lincoln's traction bars for me on the street helped to keep my truck from hopping. When the tires spin,they spin evenly and without hopping. They spin on take off and on the 1-2 WOT shift.
When i switched to Nitto 555R's, they displayed the same characteristics as my F1's. Only differences where the extremes: extreme cold they drove like i dipped them in olive oil...and extreme heat they hooked great, much better than F1's. No runs at the track before and after the traction bars..sorry. Before the bars, i ran a 1.98 60'time..
When i switched to Nitto 555R's, they displayed the same characteristics as my F1's. Only differences where the extremes: extreme cold they drove like i dipped them in olive oil...and extreme heat they hooked great, much better than F1's. No runs at the track before and after the traction bars..sorry. Before the bars, i ran a 1.98 60'time..
I can only speak for my Truck Tracks. I think my truck rides fine with them and i also have a 1-2" drop with Eibach's in the front and 2" drop shackles out back. They are easy to install and adjustable for street/track conditions if warranted. They require no drilling. They do make a difference on the street in helping prevent wheel hop, etc. (i have no wheel hop with them) and spinning tires still depends on the tires used and conditions. For example Nitto DR's work well in hot street conditions but are slippery in the cold. The above is my experiences, best of luck.
they do help on the street, to a point..
I've used Lakewoods and currently run JL's traction bars.
Despite having to drill holes in the frame, JL's bars are completely quiet, require no adjustment, have no adverse affects cruising, clear aftermarket exhausts with ease.
Still able to blister F1's from a stand still at will though... heh heh heh..
Bob
I've used Lakewoods and currently run JL's traction bars.
Despite having to drill holes in the frame, JL's bars are completely quiet, require no adjustment, have no adverse affects cruising, clear aftermarket exhausts with ease.
Still able to blister F1's from a stand still at will though... heh heh heh..
Bob
Wow, so you guys feel like the L handles the same afterward? If they work so well when launching, what do they do when you're not launching (like entering a corner?). A couple local guys admitted they pogo on bumps now, but I forget which bars they're using. Speedin Bob, don't you like to race on road courses too, or you strictly a drag strip guy?
How do the Truck Tracks compare to the JLP and Caltrac bars?
How do the Truck Tracks compare to the JLP and Caltrac bars?
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I'm not as experienced as the rest of these guys, but after putting my Cal-tracs on, my ride definately is better! I used to bottom out because of the 3/4 drop, but I havn't hit once since the bars. Don't ask me why/how, but I am absolutely to have them. They also make the truck sit very well upon launching. Got the anti rattle kit too, so no noise whatsoever. Not having experience with the others, I can fully recommend Cal-tracs.
Originally posted by BMWBig6
Wow, so you guys feel like the L handles the same afterward? If they work so well when launching, what do they do when you're not launching (like entering a corner?). A couple local guys admitted they pogo on bumps now, but I forget which bars they're using. Speedin Bob, don't you like to race on road courses too, or you strictly a drag strip guy?
How do the Truck Tracks compare to the JLP and Caltrac bars?
Wow, so you guys feel like the L handles the same afterward? If they work so well when launching, what do they do when you're not launching (like entering a corner?). A couple local guys admitted they pogo on bumps now, but I forget which bars they're using. Speedin Bob, don't you like to race on road courses too, or you strictly a drag strip guy?
How do the Truck Tracks compare to the JLP and Caltrac bars?
The Lakewoods did create a 'pogo' effect and I didn't care for the bars loading/unloading the springs in the corners. Hence the change.
I had JL's bars installed during my last on-track event. No ill-effects whatsoever.

Bob
Last edited by Speedin Bob; Mar 20, 2003 at 11:33 AM.
Originally posted by Jerry Jordan
Bob, I had my Truck Tracks on at a SVT On Track Event and I thought they helped me get out of the turns better.
Bob, I had my Truck Tracks on at a SVT On Track Event and I thought they helped me get out of the turns better.
Bob, the Truck Tracks and lakewoods are both slappers so would they both pogo (vs lifter bars)? Are you saying you don't like the slappers as much?
Racing is a game of weight transfer. The weight has to be on the tires what you want to do the work.
Jerry is partially right. They will help you get out of the corners faster. However, you should have the front tires pointed straight down the track when you do begin to accelerate..
Any rear traction device that is working properly, will provide lift to the front end and transfer weight to the rear. If you are still trying to make the truck turn with the front tires, and you transfer weight off of them, they will begin to understeer. Sometimes quite dramatically.
I found, coming out of a 95 Mustang Cobra, the Lightning had a great tendency to understeer. To overcome this, I also found it was necessary to trail brake very deep into the turn. This kept the weight on the front (steering) tires. Once the truck was beginning to point out of the turn, I could accelerate. A rear traction device will make this more of a necessity.
Jerry is partially right. They will help you get out of the corners faster. However, you should have the front tires pointed straight down the track when you do begin to accelerate..
Any rear traction device that is working properly, will provide lift to the front end and transfer weight to the rear. If you are still trying to make the truck turn with the front tires, and you transfer weight off of them, they will begin to understeer. Sometimes quite dramatically.
I found, coming out of a 95 Mustang Cobra, the Lightning had a great tendency to understeer. To overcome this, I also found it was necessary to trail brake very deep into the turn. This kept the weight on the front (steering) tires. Once the truck was beginning to point out of the turn, I could accelerate. A rear traction device will make this more of a necessity.
Big6,
It wouldn't be prudent to pass judgement on possible 'pogo-ing' with Truck Traks. I've neither tried them nor driven an L with them. However, I have seen their construction up close and they are MUCH better than the Lakewood design.
to Jay
JMHO and no flame intended whatsoever, slappers-style bars seem to be better utilized for straight line applications whereas static bars could have additional benefit in the corners.
Bob
It wouldn't be prudent to pass judgement on possible 'pogo-ing' with Truck Traks. I've neither tried them nor driven an L with them. However, I have seen their construction up close and they are MUCH better than the Lakewood design.
JMHO and no flame intended whatsoever, slappers-style bars seem to be better utilized for straight line applications whereas static bars could have additional benefit in the corners.
Bob


