I am starting to get more info now than ever about a built transmission with a torque converter in it and a stall to about 2400. My concern is, when im driving down the highway at 60 miles per hour or so, I'm just at 2,000 rpm's. But, with overdrive off, i go up another 1,000 rpms or so. Will there be any problem having a stall of 2400 in a dailey driver? I dont know much about transmissions or stalls. At first i thought a stall was just for track use only. I thought the truck didnt go anywhere period untill you hit 2400 rpm's. (even with foot off the break...) I dont know where i got that from, but thats what i thought a stall was. What exactly is a 2400 rpm stall going to do?
I'm told there is nothing wrong with putting a stall on an every day driver. If i am in there replacing the trans, why not put in a new torque converter? I don't mind doing that. I just would like more info on what to expect from a Monster box and a torque converter with a stall in it to 2400 in my 2000 Lightning. With a stall of 2400 rpms can i get away with launching at the track on et streets? Or do i need to run slicks with a stall? Thanks, Shane

 

Lower gear actually. 3.55's will be fine. 3.73 or 4.10's will give you a little quicker. 2400 stall on the street will be virtually unnoticable in daily driving. Well advised to add a better external tranny cooler.

 

The least of your worries right now is your gear brother, worry about that tranny.

As for the extra tranny cooler, maybe if you road race or somthing and you simply beat the **** out of your tranny but by no means will you need it for a monster box with daily driving and occasional dragging. I was going to do that with my monster box and greg told me not to even waste my time cause you don't need it with the stock cooler and a deeper pan installed with fins to help cool. I would get a new pan like I got though, they help.

 

Stall speed does not matter when you are on the highway! We have full lock-up converters. When the converter is locked, it is basically a direct couple from the motor to the trans.

The only time you will actually feel the stall speed is when you are taking off from a stop. After a few weeks of driving around with a 2400 stall converter, you wont even remember what the truck felt like without it. If you dont plan on taking your truck to the track very often or you plan on doing some towing, dont waste your time with a converter. There are allot of fast trucks with the stock converter! Traction on the street will suffer if you try to race someone from a dead stop also.

Your truck will rev to a higher point(than stock) before it starts moving, but it will move before the stall speed. With a 2400 stall in my '99, I could only hold it at about 2000 at the track before the wheels wanted to break loose and only about 1700 on the street.

Leave the 3.55's in there for street driving and run 26" ET's at the track. Its like having the best of both worlds.

ET streets are basically slicks with small, insignificant grooves in them to make them street (not highway) legal. You should be fine with a 2400 stall converter and ET streets.

Hope this helps,
Jason

 

you still wanna get rid of those tires? let me know. Thanks, Shane

 

I don't understand how something could be street legal, but not highway legal.
I thought the tires are legal for driving on the street as long as the tread is sufficient and they were DOT approved.


Mickey Thompson on ET streets:
"WARNING: ET Street tires have passed D.O.T. requirements but have reduced tread depth and compounds designed for racing. Due to the reduced tread depth these tires should be used on dry pavement only and are not suitable for normal highway use!"
Hoosier on Quick Time pros:
"NOTE: D.O.T. Labeled Hoosier Racing Tires meet Department of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only and are NOT INTENDED FOR HIGHWAY USE. It is unsafe to operate any Hoosier Racing Tire including DOT tires on public roads. The prohibited use of Hoosier Racing Tires on public roadways may result in loss of traction, unexpected loss of vehicle control, or sudden loss of tire pressure, resulting in a vehicle crash and possible injury or death."

 

Its called the "speed limit"

Drag tires (ETs' or Slicks, not Drag radials) are intended for short bursts of speed, not sustained speeds. Even though you may not consider 55mph high speed, the ET streets just arent designed to sustain highway speeds for long periods of time.

Jason

 

If you still want them for $250, they're yours.

I sent you my e-mail address.
Jason

 

I didn't realize there were laws specifying the speed that a certain tire may go. I alway thought is was DOT street legal or not. Is this something the police enforce? How do the police verify if your tire is speed rated to a certain speed?
Jeez, next thing you know THP is going to get me for doing 25 in a 35 because my et streets are only rated for 20 mph.

 

I would say that running a stall converter would be a smart idea. On the street you will notice a slight sensation difference in how the truck accelerates. Once you get use to that sensation difference you will like how the truck pulls harder out of the hole.
The reason I say you should do a stall is because I have balloned a stock and a slightly over stock stall converter. By balloning I mean that it swells when the throttle has been closed (aka: after a burnout) causing it to push the crank forward and chewing up the thrust bearing. (Result: rebuild engine) Aftermarket stall converters have built in anti-balloning plates that help to prevent this. I run a TCI 3000 stall in my street rod behind a 400M (400Hp and 400ftlbs) with a C-6. It rocks and I run harder now because I can powerbrake the truck to 3000 and then get all over it. Traction is of course an issue.
If you are not racing a lot, then you can get bye with the stock cooler. Otherwise updgrade that component if you are doing anything more than the occasional race and drag strip visit.
One more thing, the more torque you have the higher the stall will be. Meaning if you have two engines and one has 100ftlbs more torque than the other engine (or even more overall displacement) it will have a higher stall than the one with the less torque. This will show up as a couple hundred rpm's more stall. So the biggest deal is getting a stall that works with your displacement (331 CI), I believe; your torque curves and how you want the truck to perform and what it will be used for.
Most are running the 2400 stall, I would do that for your daily driver.

Brian