Valve body vs. Line mod Valve
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Valve body vs. Line mod Valve
For the longest time I thought these were the same thing. One is $200-225, and the other right around $90. Do they do the same thing? 
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Factory_Tech. Nice write up on Sal's site. I like your work ethic.
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Go here and read Detailed Product Information From Gregg Evans
This will answer all your questions and it's the latest, updated version that Gregg wrote for my website.
Tim
This will answer all your questions and it's the latest, updated version that Gregg wrote for my website.
Tim
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$90.00 for a line mod is insane. You'll be staring at it for 5 minutes or so with it in your hand wondering where the rest of the parts are!!! I bought one for 26.00 and took it out to put in a 200.00 F/T accumulator---and I sure don't regret it. The line mod might have lasted 10 years but the FT shifts faster and harder at WOT and I believe a trans specialist when he says the line mod is a gamble. Choice is yours. If money is a prob definitely DO NOT pay 90.00 for a line mod kit. Greg said he could get it for 30.00, I think even JLP has them for about 40.00(?). Lots of guys have run the line mod for a long time. You choose.
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There are a lot of us
that have the line mod valve and are perfectly happy with the results. Its like anything else you mod, happiness is judged by the owner.. my tranny now shifts much better than stock. My engine is stock and the largest majority of my driving is commuting to and from work, so I dont need anything more than what I already have..
talk to others and make up your own mind. you probably wont go wrong either way..
good luck
Dana
talk to others and make up your own mind. you probably wont go wrong either way..
good luck
Dana
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From: Plainfield, Illinois
factory tech valve body gets my vote. i was just in your shoes months ago. Untill i was sold the ftvb and now i installed it on Sunday, (wasy install) i love it. it was worth every penny. I dont know anything about just the line valve mod.... i did look into it, but there's a reason its $40 and the valve body is $225. No offence to anyone running that set up. I'm sure that link will back what i say up. But again, valve body gets my vote. What i like about it is, it's throttle responsive. So unless your gassen' it hard you won't know it's there. And one last thing, the quicker shifts also helps the tranny. It was hard for me to understand, how can i upgrade valve bodies, and get performance out of it, AND have it HELP my transmission.
Thanks, Shane
Thanks, Shane
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From: anchorage, alaska, usa, north america, earth, solar system, milky way
Thanks for all the input fellas. Allow me to quote the following from Factory_Tech's write up:
Another reason why I like my '99.
I have a CD jambpacked with all of my Lightning races (street & strip) and some 2003 Cobra stuff with "min150mph" written on it. You want to trade? More than what you see at my geocities website....tundra_svt@yahoo.com 
by Factory_Tech at http://www.chikenearsengineering.com/accumulator.htm
First, an accumulator is a fairly straightforward assembly. In the 4R100, there are 3 shift bores, and 1 line pressure/throttle bore. The 3 shift bores are identical, and different springs are set in them to control the reaction of the accumulator piston to hydraulic pressure, this reaction translates into shift duration on the shift controlled by that bore. All of the bores are fed pressure by the Line Modulator Boost Valve, which reacts to the Throttle Valve, controlling this circuit boosts line pressure into all of the shift bores. If you change the Line Modulator Boost Valve and raise line pressure throughout the body, the individual shift bores are no longer “tuned” properly and the reaction in the shift bores will be out of calibration for the elevated line pressure. For this reason, you need to recalibrate the shift bores, both in the top circuit (above the accumulator piston) and below (the 321-310 circuit). Also, in the 2001 model Lightings, I have found that increased pressure in the lower circuits caused the 321 valves to “side load” or bind up due to asymmetric application of hydraulic pressure during the shift, resulting in a “bang shift”. A Line Mod valve fails to address these conditions. My last (but not least) concern with a Line Mod valve is cost, I don’t think you get much bang for the buck if you pay $89 for a Line Modulator Boost Valve.
First, an accumulator is a fairly straightforward assembly. In the 4R100, there are 3 shift bores, and 1 line pressure/throttle bore. The 3 shift bores are identical, and different springs are set in them to control the reaction of the accumulator piston to hydraulic pressure, this reaction translates into shift duration on the shift controlled by that bore. All of the bores are fed pressure by the Line Modulator Boost Valve, which reacts to the Throttle Valve, controlling this circuit boosts line pressure into all of the shift bores. If you change the Line Modulator Boost Valve and raise line pressure throughout the body, the individual shift bores are no longer “tuned” properly and the reaction in the shift bores will be out of calibration for the elevated line pressure. For this reason, you need to recalibrate the shift bores, both in the top circuit (above the accumulator piston) and below (the 321-310 circuit). Also, in the 2001 model Lightings, I have found that increased pressure in the lower circuits caused the 321 valves to “side load” or bind up due to asymmetric application of hydraulic pressure during the shift, resulting in a “bang shift”. A Line Mod valve fails to address these conditions. My last (but not least) concern with a Line Mod valve is cost, I don’t think you get much bang for the buck if you pay $89 for a Line Modulator Boost Valve.
by min150mph
Got a line mod valve you can have for free. Love the Factory Tech Valvebody.
Got a line mod valve you can have for free. Love the Factory Tech Valvebody.