Nowhere to Go, Why not check my plugs...DOH!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,922
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, KY
Cross threading those seems REALLY easy ... Maybe it's the
soft aluminum, huh?
I heard that you should use a "thread chaser" and not a tap
for the first attempt to staighten out the problem.
Trouble is there is soooooo little room in there ... I had to
do two of mine after I took my plugs out the first time. You
don't wanna know who cross threaded them <grin>
soft aluminum, huh?
I heard that you should use a "thread chaser" and not a tap
for the first attempt to staighten out the problem.
Trouble is there is soooooo little room in there ... I had to
do two of mine after I took my plugs out the first time. You
don't wanna know who cross threaded them <grin>
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: omaha ne
__________________________________________________ _
Posted by 03Lightnin
Not really...I did drop a socket into the #8, but I fished it out with my magnet. It had me swetting bullets for about an hour.
__________________________________________________ _
And I thought I was the only one in the whole world who had
done that! Mine was a deep set (long) 7MM, and was a SOB
to fish out.
Posted by 03Lightnin
Not really...I did drop a socket into the #8, but I fished it out with my magnet. It had me swetting bullets for about an hour.
__________________________________________________ _
And I thought I was the only one in the whole world who had
done that! Mine was a deep set (long) 7MM, and was a SOB
to fish out.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 0
From: Botswana
Originally posted by SVT_KY
Cross threading those seems REALLY easy ... Maybe it's the
soft aluminum, huh?
I heard that you should use a "thread chaser" and not a tap
for the first attempt to staighten out the problem.
Trouble is there is soooooo little room in there ... I had to
do two of mine after I took my plugs out the first time. You
don't wanna know who cross threaded them <grin>
Cross threading those seems REALLY easy ... Maybe it's the
soft aluminum, huh?
I heard that you should use a "thread chaser" and not a tap
for the first attempt to staighten out the problem.
Trouble is there is soooooo little room in there ... I had to
do two of mine after I took my plugs out the first time. You
don't wanna know who cross threaded them <grin>
Well that's two thread chaser votes. Thread chaser it is! I'll try when I get back home next week.
Rocks
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 353
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From: McKinney, TX, USA
I may have to try the thread chaser idea. I was also considering trying to pull it out "Bob Vila" style with one of those Craftsman damaged screw removers. I'm not giving up on it yet, but I may soon. My damn hands are all chewed up and sore as hell! That #3 plug on the passenger side is a tight fit; and you know what they say about guys with big hands
...
they have a hard time working in the tight spaces on the engine!
For the ladies...you may now
!!
Tom
...
they have a hard time working in the tight spaces on the engine!
For the ladies...you may now
!!Tom
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 353
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From: McKinney, TX, USA
Originally posted by EZGZ
Broken Bolts and screw are always tuff but I have been successful most of the time.
Your problem is that it is below the surface and hard to get at.
But! still not impossible.
The important thing is to not give up and just keep trying different things Mcgiver style.
Let me just throw out some ideas and it might spark your mind!
1.A Dremel tool to make a straight slot to get a screwdriver on.
2. Use a burr style grinder to make a recessed center so you can drill it.
3. This is not a good one but it could be used to drive something like a torx bit into the hole to get a grip http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37530
4. Take a nice fat arch welding rod 1/4 inch and set your arch welder on say 60 amps or so and strike an arch on the top of the bolt and let it stick. Then release the rod from the holder. If it sticks good you may be able to twist it out. Be sure to let the bolt cool completely because metal expands when it is hot and that will make it harder to get out.
Caution!!! Disconnect your truck battery and turn on head lights to drain and current. Also connect your ground on the welder close so no electricty is going where you don't want it.
use common sence and caution around gasoline or other flamables.
5. Soak the area where the bolt is with WD-40 or liquid wrench for a while. Strike the bolt with a hammer and punch to jar it and allow the oil to get in the threads. Go along the outside edge with a sharp drift punch in counter clockwise direction.
6. 7 Our Fathers and 7 Hail Mary's and $5 in the poor box at church.
7.
8. Take the manifold off so you can work on it.
9. Pay someone else to do it.
Broken Bolts and screw are always tuff but I have been successful most of the time.
Your problem is that it is below the surface and hard to get at.
But! still not impossible.
The important thing is to not give up and just keep trying different things Mcgiver style.
Let me just throw out some ideas and it might spark your mind!
1.A Dremel tool to make a straight slot to get a screwdriver on.
2. Use a burr style grinder to make a recessed center so you can drill it.
3. This is not a good one but it could be used to drive something like a torx bit into the hole to get a grip http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37530
4. Take a nice fat arch welding rod 1/4 inch and set your arch welder on say 60 amps or so and strike an arch on the top of the bolt and let it stick. Then release the rod from the holder. If it sticks good you may be able to twist it out. Be sure to let the bolt cool completely because metal expands when it is hot and that will make it harder to get out.
Caution!!! Disconnect your truck battery and turn on head lights to drain and current. Also connect your ground on the welder close so no electricty is going where you don't want it.
use common sence and caution around gasoline or other flamables.
5. Soak the area where the bolt is with WD-40 or liquid wrench for a while. Strike the bolt with a hammer and punch to jar it and allow the oil to get in the threads. Go along the outside edge with a sharp drift punch in counter clockwise direction.
6. 7 Our Fathers and 7 Hail Mary's and $5 in the poor box at church.
7.
8. Take the manifold off so you can work on it.
9. Pay someone else to do it.
. I was considering the notch/screwdriver idea, but I figure I'll probably snap what I have left of the bolt in half and end up having to go to #9 anyway. I'm considering the torx bit, but we'll see. #6 and #7 have been tried, but when I'm done I still go out to the garage and the bolt hasn't been removed; besides, I hear the engine doesn't like beer anyway! And, of course, paying someone else to do it is always an option!Thanks for the suggestions!
Tom
Last edited by tliss; Feb 27, 2003 at 09:44 PM.
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 353
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From: McKinney, TX, USA
Originally posted by clonetek
i broke the 3rd one off on the drivers side the first time i changed my plugs... i'm still wondering how to get it out.
i broke the 3rd one off on the drivers side the first time i changed my plugs... i'm still wondering how to get it out.
Tom
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,298
Likes: 1
From: here
Originally posted by SpankDog
WHy cant you use anti-seize its made for things that go into aluminum.
WHy cant you use anti-seize its made for things that go into aluminum.