Can anyone offer some advice or words of wisdom on properly setting up the preload on the Metco uppers?

Anything would help.


Rocks

 

TTT

 

Masterloggie just adjusted his(lowers. I think?) after his recent install.........

Dan

 

Anybody????

I thought maybe bumping up so the night shift folks could see it may get some input.



Rocks

 

03LightninRocks

I have the upper Metco Track Links. They are a liitle more toruble to install and adjust initially than lowers. I liked the idea of having more clearance of speed bumps and curbs when I have to drive over them. Plus I have the 2 inch rear drop shackles. Before anyone thinks he runs over curbs blatanly;the parking lot at work sometimes get blocked up and i must go over a curb to get out.

During the install you had to change the rear axle spring perch and lengthen the track links bracket bolt line up with the front of the spring eye. The rear axle was being supported by your floor jack taking weight off the spring... thus it is longer without the weight of the truck compressing the spring. With the METCO upper traction links installed and the truck is now sitting on the ground; start turning clock wise with your wrench ( make sure the locking nuts at each end are loose with about one inch of thread showing). You will reach a point where you can turn it by hand. When you reach that point; turn clockwise by hand until cn no longer turn. Now you will start the preload shortening the length with your wrench.


Mark a lobe on the adjustment and then turn 3 complete revolutions (clockwise) with your wrench. Then tighten the locking nuts at each end... pull the tabs over to hold. Do not be afraid to "tighten the locking nuts".

Go out and test.... if any wheel hop occurs as it bites... add one more complete turn. Continue this type adjusting shortening the length until it not longer hops.

Do your testing from a dead stop... not rolling. Mine will smoke the street tires if I floor it at 15 MPH into second gear.... laying 2 nice stips of rubber. However, when I start from stand still, I get a couple of hops before it bites and burns the rear tires through second. Therefore, I need to add one more turn shortening the length.

Make sure you grease the bushings (front and rear) with synthetic grease using a hand grease gun. The pressure of a pneumatic grease gun can ruin the bushing.

Have not tested with drag radials yet; just street tires.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions... fire me an Email; masterloggie@hotmail.com

Ron

 

Ron,

That is exactly the info I was looking for. I was not sure which way to go for taking out wheel hop. On my F1's I get an occasional wheel hop from a dead stop on the street. I had a concern that when I put the slicks on it at the track it would get real bad and bust my axle before I had a chance to add more preload.

So just to be sure I get this...Shorten the links some if getting wheel hop...I am guessing here that the reason for just doing the least shortening required is that as you increase preload, you reduce traction(ability to hook)?

Thanks Again,,,,It is very much appreciated. Maybe I can buy you a cold one if I see you at one of the FFW events this year. I plan on trying to hit as many as possible.

Rocks

 

Rocks,

Yes... shortening preloads. Keeps the axle from wrapping. Makes axle to front of spring rigid under the torque. Does not effect normal up and down compression of the spring for loads and bumps. But will not allow it to twist (wrap) under accelaration of the tires gripping.

I reckon we are back to the mechanical ****ion of leaf springs.... support loading Up and down..... not for and aft.

Had to think myself about adjusting these things. I verified after I did it with METCO. I used the old righty tighty saying.... preload means to tighten, therefore to decrease the length of the trak links you turn right (clockwise). righty tighty = preload

I am not worried about the slicks... I have the Nittto 404 305/55/18s.... These suckers fill up the wheel wells. When I get them not to hop at all, the slicks will be a much smaller mass with more grip and more side wall flex. Stiffer the sidewall the more the bounce... maybe I am all wet on this.

Glad I could help.

Ron

 

See! I told ya so .

Now ask him about how to boot up a new PC .............

Dan

 

Dan,

I read your comment about booting a PC and laughed big time. Took 4 people in the shop 10 days to figure it out. My intial hunch was right.... new card on the market with buggy BIOS= new BIOS update being available. However, it was a good excuse to get a X8 AGP card. My bad on not readingthe AGP slot voltage on the new MOBO I installed. Old video card 3.3V and the new MOBO only puts out 1.5 V to the AGP slot. Plus the BIOS FLASH utility with the MOBO was bad.

Dan... please explain how to change a MOBO and set the BIOS?

I am kidding and just wanted to pull your chain AMIGO.

Ron

 

I have the Metco lowers. So is the opposite true for me--that I should lenghten the bars to gain preload?

 

TTT

 

bump ...
I'd I'm going to try and adjust mine tonight..

thanks,
John

 

my uppers wheel hoped at 1 round of preload so i put 1 round in each side and it elemenated the wheel. I love them and they are stealth.

 

 

Shortening the Uppers will put a arch or a bow in the front half of the leaf spring. This is what keeps the spring from wraping up.
Slippery Track=LONGER Uppers (soften the spring for weight transfer)
Sticky Track = SHORTER Uppers(stiffer rear=forward motion)

Tim,
I am inclined to think "Just the Opposite" for the lowers, but I can't speak from experience.

FF