MISTERgadget I get my Castrol from a friend who owns an auto repair business. I believe the last case (12 bottles) cost me around $35 dollars. The bottles are black with at green cap I believe. I am not an oil expert, but I like it and if its not full synthetic as I thought it was, no big deal. But I think it is.....
Its all dinosaur pi$$ anyway isn't it??
I use a PH2 Fram filter too, is that okay?
Marc

 

Thanks for the replys, I am getting close to oil change time.

 

I can't tell you exactly if the castrol you bought is full synthetic or not. The castrol US site shows black bottle with a black cap.

However, Castrol Uk's Synthetic looks like this. This is what you get as factory fill in a Bmw, and what they'll change your oil with at the dealer, since they include all maintenance to 36K miles.


My previous post wasn't quite a slam of castrol's oil itself, but more of their deceptive advertising practices. These two links can tell you more about that. Looks like fooling customers ia a habit over there.

http://www.ftc.gov/os/1999/9909/burm...lcomplaint.htm

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9909/shellcastrol.htm

I'm just trying to keep fellow L owners from falling into their trap.

Another interesting read is this Oil Filter Study

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...lterstudy.html

He sums up the results of his study on this page, with his reccomendations of filters to avoid, and those that are recommended. The OE motorcraft, mobil one, and purolator filters are all good. The two fram filters tested were pretty bad, but I'm not sure about the Ph2.

To sum all of this up Marc, the oil and filter you're using now aren't bad, just not ideal. It's a shame that castrol uses such deceptive practices. Here's what I use myself and reccomend to others: Mobil one 5w-30, $24 a case of 6 at costco, and a Motorcraft FL-820s Filter, less than $4 at autozone and similar stores.

 

I missed one other question of yours Marc.

Not all of it is dinosaur pi$$. Anything that's petroleum based (conventional motor oil) or a synthetic blend of petroleum and synthetic bases, uses the Dino pi$$.

Full synthetic motor oils such as Mobil One, Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil have nothing in them that comes form the ground. These are fully synthetic molecules that are engineered in a laboratory.

 

Well, I haven't posted on any of these oil change post in awhile so hers is what I do. First I got that ford crap out as soon as I could and put in Mobil 1 10W30. I change my oil around every 4-5000 miles or when I get around to it. I currently have over 78K on my truck and over 1800 passes at my 1/8 mile dragstrip and my truck burns little or no oil between changes. It did use oil with an open breather cap which is now gone. The only note I would add is whenever I drive my truck it gets run at least 30 miles without shutting off so that the oil gets good and warm and any moisture in it gets burned off. No stop and go drivng. Nothing has broke so far. PS Don't use FRAM filters.
noelvm

 

Changed over to Synthetic @ 5000 miles. No Engine problems, have 30000 miles on an 01 Lightning. Went from Mobil1 to Redline and am now Using LUCAS Synthetic 10/30 Plus.......
Lucas bottle says'''''''''''''AMERICA'S FINEST"""""

That Statement along w/a FREE LUCAS HAT
SOLD Me ....God Bless America
Hat Promo is still going http://www.lucasoil.com/

 

royal purple 5w30

 

Mobil 1 in all my other vehicles and yard machines--since the early 70s when it came out.

At 4K, I started using RP(see sig) and a K&N Gold filter. I'm not 'religious' about the change intervals--6-9K, usually. 42,800 miles now with no noise/start up issues and it put down the dyno numbers you see with many(not as many as noel) 1/4 mile passes. It even keeps my plugs in their holes --LOL!

Dan

 

I second the Royal Purple 5W30 after 5,000