I need traction.........
I need traction.........
I need ABSOLUTELY NEED Traction!!!
What are the best Traction Bars available?
Also why are some so much cheaper than others yet seem to work just as good if not better...for example I see Truck-Traks going for $275(I think) and than Metco's for like $450(I think) Why so much of a difference...also what do most you have and what should I expect of them with Drag Radials?
Thanks
What are the best Traction Bars available?
Also why are some so much cheaper than others yet seem to work just as good if not better...for example I see Truck-Traks going for $275(I think) and than Metco's for like $450(I think) Why so much of a difference...also what do most you have and what should I expect of them with Drag Radials?
Thanks
Truck-Traks are a quick, bolt-on type slapper bar. They can be installed in about 20 minutes, with common hand tools.
They do not require any disassembly of the rear springs or any drilling of the frame.
They are perfect for a daily driver, and you won't even know they are there, until you tromp on it.
They do not require any disassembly of the rear springs or any drilling of the frame.
They are perfect for a daily driver, and you won't even know they are there, until you tromp on it.
Your set-up was actually the one I was leaning towards...Will they work any different since my Truck is lowered 2' in the Rear? Also what is an estimate 60' time one should expect on lets say a decent track and on Drag Radials?
Thanks
Thanks
Originally posted by SVTBlackBolt
Will they work any different since my Truck is lowered 2' in the Rear? Also what is an estimate 60' time one should expect on lets say a decent track and on Drag Radials?
Will they work any different since my Truck is lowered 2' in the Rear? Also what is an estimate 60' time one should expect on lets say a decent track and on Drag Radials?
You 2nd question is WAY too broad to give you any numbers. We have no idea your mods or elevation or track etc etc etc.
--Joe
Got the Truck-Traks, they work well, but I could still smoke the F1s at the drop of a hat. It took drag radials to get my 60' times below 2.0. Highly recommend the DR's, they should of been standard equipment on these torque monsters.
Truck-Traks plus 16" M/T ET Streets=my best 60'=1.792 but most of the time, I'm at 1.88-2+ because of the track prep(lack of). I'm still learning how to warm them up and launch properly..............
Dan
Dan
Originally posted by LIGHTNINROD
Truck-Traks plus 16" M/T ET Streets
Truck-Traks plus 16" M/T ET Streets
Stock convertor
Sorry Dan I had to.
--Joe
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ETs should get you better results, but they do take some technique, both for heating them and for launch. Drag radials are good for low 1.8s - high 1.7s (down here at Orlando Speedworld that is, land of "VHT? How do you spell that again?!?) Its all in yourtechnique, plus seat time to make it work.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but "traction bars" don't actually add traction, they just prevent axle wrap and wheel hop once you have broken traction. Granted, a traction bar may help regain control of traction quicker, but their main function is to prevent damage to the driveline, right?
I notice no better or worse traction with traction bars on my truck. The burnouts are nice and even now, though, with none of that shuddering that gave me visions of broken driveshafts.
I notice no better or worse traction with traction bars on my truck. The burnouts are nice and even now, though, with none of that shuddering that gave me visions of broken driveshafts.
Lift Bars create traction by causing the front of the truck to raise and lower the back of the truck. This will cause great weight transfer to the rear, which is all about traction. Throw on some adjustable shocks and you will see 1.5x 60' times easy if you have enough power.
Tim, 99SVT is correct.
The idea behind traction bars is twofold.
First, you want to control the axle wrap, that is responsable for wheelhop and driveshaft binding.
Second, a well designed traction bar will also provide weight transfer to the rear.
The slapper bar, allows a little rotation of the rear axle, and will harness it to provide a lifting effect to the front of the vehicle when the snubber contacts the spring. Simple and effective!
The "lift bars" that you see, technically don't provide much lift, due to their very slight angle. They work on a little different principle. They harness the rotation of the axle assembly and transfer it mainly in a forward direction, as well as a little upward direction. This forward transfer of energy, helps the truck accelerate in forward direction. They also change the rotation into an upward movement of the rear (unsuspended) part of the vehicle, which "plants" the tires.
They both have their advantages and disadvantages.
The idea behind traction bars is twofold.
First, you want to control the axle wrap, that is responsable for wheelhop and driveshaft binding.
Second, a well designed traction bar will also provide weight transfer to the rear.
The slapper bar, allows a little rotation of the rear axle, and will harness it to provide a lifting effect to the front of the vehicle when the snubber contacts the spring. Simple and effective!
The "lift bars" that you see, technically don't provide much lift, due to their very slight angle. They work on a little different principle. They harness the rotation of the axle assembly and transfer it mainly in a forward direction, as well as a little upward direction. This forward transfer of energy, helps the truck accelerate in forward direction. They also change the rotation into an upward movement of the rear (unsuspended) part of the vehicle, which "plants" the tires.
They both have their advantages and disadvantages.



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