FRPP Lowering Kit.
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From: Shelton, Connecticut
FRPP Lowering Kit.
Just a quick question. How much are you all paying for this kit>??? Just curious if the deal I am getting is really a "deal." Also do you like the kit>??? I will just be using the front springs out of it so...... Thanks, -Mat-
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From: Medina, OH, USA
Measure before and after to makew sure that you do not have a height difference side to side. I had that problem, and it was never able to be corrected... the truck was level before I started. i definitely would not purchase these coils again... I even have an extra set sitting in my garage right now. I would go with bell tech coils up front instead if i were you.
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From: Hermosa Beach, CA
Got the kit for 130 bucks (if I remember right). No problems. I was/am satisfied. It does have a harsh ride though and some serious recoil. I still think it was worth it. No leveling problems.
BD
BD
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From: Shelton, Connecticut
Thanks.
Thanks guys. I am sold on it. My price for the whole kit is better then the $175 I was told for just front eibachs. 
I will check before and after. Is the front spring install easy or a pain. Do you need a spring compressor or will your hands do fine>??? -Mat-
I will check before and after. Is the front spring install easy or a pain. Do you need a spring compressor or will your hands do fine>??? -Mat-
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mat,
Yeah, your hands should do just fine...but it helps if you jump and down on the spring too before you put it in!
Try a jack under the lower control arm to take the tension off of the spring slowly...there should be pretty detailed instructions online from when Don's Bolt did his front springs if I remember correctly.
Dan
Yeah, your hands should do just fine...but it helps if you jump and down on the spring too before you put it in!
Try a jack under the lower control arm to take the tension off of the spring slowly...there should be pretty detailed instructions online from when Don's Bolt did his front springs if I remember correctly.
Dan
Last edited by Struck in AZ; Jan 23, 2003 at 07:47 PM.
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From: Shelton, Connecticut
Originally posted by Struck in AZ
Matt,
Yeah, your hands should do just fine...but it helps if you jump and down on the spring too before you put it in!
Try a jack under the lower control arm to take the tension off of the spring slowly...there should be pretty detailed instructions online from when Don's Bolt did his front springs if I remember correctly.
Dan
Matt,
Yeah, your hands should do just fine...but it helps if you jump and down on the spring too before you put it in!
Try a jack under the lower control arm to take the tension off of the spring slowly...there should be pretty detailed instructions online from when Don's Bolt did his front springs if I remember correctly.
Dan
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,922
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From: Lexington, KY
If you do just springs, you need to add the CAMBOLTS at
the same time. That way all you need to do is drop the brakeline,
unbolt the top A-arms, undo the top of the shock and the bottom,
and release the jack slowly while holding the top a-arm.
It all just drops down. I found this much easier than the
alternate of dealing with the lower control arm and pullers
and such.
Good Luck ...
the same time. That way all you need to do is drop the brakeline,
unbolt the top A-arms, undo the top of the shock and the bottom,
and release the jack slowly while holding the top a-arm.
It all just drops down. I found this much easier than the
alternate of dealing with the lower control arm and pullers
and such.
Good Luck ...
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Shelton, Connecticut
Originally posted by SVT_KY
If you do just springs, you need to add the CAMBOLTS at
the same time. That way all you need to do is drop the brakeline,
unbolt the top A-arms, undo the top of the shock and the bottom,
and release the jack slowly while holding the top a-arm.
It all just drops down. I found this much easier than the
alternate of dealing with the lower control arm and pullers
and such.
Good Luck ...
If you do just springs, you need to add the CAMBOLTS at
the same time. That way all you need to do is drop the brakeline,
unbolt the top A-arms, undo the top of the shock and the bottom,
and release the jack slowly while holding the top a-arm.
It all just drops down. I found this much easier than the
alternate of dealing with the lower control arm and pullers
and such.
Good Luck ...
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,922
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, KY
It's a bolt with a cam on it. Seriously. It replaces
the factory fixed shim that they align our trucks with.
I think as they go down the line they measure the
camber needed, and slap a Orange or a GREEN or
a RED shim in the upper A-Arm.
The alignment cannot be corrected without them.
I prefer the ROUSH Cambolts but NAPA makes some
cheaper ones. It's your A$$ on the line ... and your
money for new front tires if it gets loose and sloppy.
Cliff
the factory fixed shim that they align our trucks with.
I think as they go down the line they measure the
camber needed, and slap a Orange or a GREEN or
a RED shim in the upper A-Arm.
The alignment cannot be corrected without them.
I prefer the ROUSH Cambolts but NAPA makes some
cheaper ones. It's your A$$ on the line ... and your
money for new front tires if it gets loose and sloppy.
Cliff
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From: On the side of the Road attempting to explain 135 miles per hour
Originally posted by SVT_KY
If you do just springs, you need to add the CAMBOLTS at
the same time. That way all you need to do is drop the brakeline,
unbolt the top A-arms, undo the top of the shock and the bottom,
and release the jack slowly while holding the top a-arm.
It all just drops down. I found this much easier than the
alternate of dealing with the lower control arm and pullers
and such.
Good Luck ...
If you do just springs, you need to add the CAMBOLTS at
the same time. That way all you need to do is drop the brakeline,
unbolt the top A-arms, undo the top of the shock and the bottom,
and release the jack slowly while holding the top a-arm.
It all just drops down. I found this much easier than the
alternate of dealing with the lower control arm and pullers
and such.
Good Luck ...
You'll need anti-clunk washers also.
Bob
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From: Shelton, Connecticut
Originally posted by SVT_KY
It's a bolt with a cam on it. Seriously. It replaces
the factory fixed shim that they align our trucks with.
I think as they go down the line they measure the
camber needed, and slap a Orange or a GREEN or
a RED shim in the upper A-Arm.
The alignment cannot be corrected without them.
I prefer the ROUSH Cambolts but NAPA makes some
cheaper ones. It's your A$$ on the line ... and your
money for new front tires if it gets loose and sloppy.
Cliff
It's a bolt with a cam on it. Seriously. It replaces
the factory fixed shim that they align our trucks with.
I think as they go down the line they measure the
camber needed, and slap a Orange or a GREEN or
a RED shim in the upper A-Arm.
The alignment cannot be corrected without them.
I prefer the ROUSH Cambolts but NAPA makes some
cheaper ones. It's your A$$ on the line ... and your
money for new front tires if it gets loose and sloppy.
Cliff