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Need help w/ LT header install!

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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 04:10 PM
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Dick 4's Avatar
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From: West Central, NY
Question Need help w/ LT header install!

How do you get the right side Long Tube on?

I have the wheel off, inside fender out, what else.

I have not even started the driverside yet.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 04:17 PM
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Passenger side is the harder of the 2.

My friend did that side while I was working on the other side. Anyway he commented that it wouldn't go in so I went to help. We slid it in through the wheel well, wiggled it a little bit and some good force (it just didn't slide in) and the header went into place. Didn't break anything which is a good sign.

Also, make sure that the wires going by the header are moved away from the tubes, you don't want to burn through those.


edit - this was with the JDM LT's. I don't know about any others.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 04:18 PM
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I had mine on jackstands with about 1 1/2 feet of clearance under the truck. Had to remove the starter and the right side motor mount and jack up the motor just a tad and it slid right in (yeah right). Almost went straight up vertical with the header and once I cleared a few obstacles it fell into place. Theres plenty of threads on here that are much more detailed and specific. try doing a search for "long tube install".
 
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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 05:58 PM
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Real simple.... You do not have to remove anything nor jack up the engine on the passenger side.

As stated above wiggle the headers between the frame rail and the block and they will go in, trust me.

Also be sure you move the wiring bundle away from the headers also.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 06:00 PM
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Like jarmstro said........you do not have to remove the starter or jack up the motor at all. Just go in through the top (unlike driver side) and wiggle it around.......it WILL go in no problem.

That last sentence sounded naughty

--Joe
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 01:26 AM
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It also helps if you loosen up the heat shield bolt......its the one on top of the frame about 6 or 8 inches to the rear of the bolt that you have to remove for the wire bundle. You dont have to take it all the way our, just back it off about a 1/2 inch to let the heat shield move up. That will make it even easier to install the header. You wont have any problem with the drivers side at all.

Compared to my old headers the JDM's are a piece a cake, I cant believe how much easier it was to get to all the bolts.
Dale
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 02:19 AM
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Neal's Avatar
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From: WINDSOR, ONTARIO, CANADA
Cool

HI!... The JDM/KOOKS long tube headers are a piece of cake to install. It took me 3.5 hours to uninstall the factory manifolds and install my old JBA shorties. With the JDM/KOOKS LT's it only took me 1.5 hours to do the same. The bolts are ten times easier to get to with the LT's. Passenger's side I dropped from up top through the wheel well. The driver's side I had to install from underneeth. I removed all my heat sheild because they were damaged. Here's a few pics of my set-up.

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...-793-37321.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...-793-37323.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...-793-37319.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...-793-37322.jpg
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 12:17 PM
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Dick 4's Avatar
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I got it in . I just started hacking away at the frame. (Just kidding)

Once again, thanks.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 02:39 PM
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What tool are you guys using to cut the perfect circle for the 02 sensor? Most of the circular saw drill bits that I have found are for wood.....None for sheet metal, any suggestions?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 04:35 PM
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I didn't cut a perfect circle, I cut an almost perfect U shape and used a pair of sheet metal scisors/tin snips.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 04:43 PM
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Originally posted by Bad as L
I didn't cut a perfect circle, I cut an almost perfect U shape and used a pair of sheet metal scisors/tin snips.
Same here......

--Joe
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 07:18 PM
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Dick 4's Avatar
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I used one of those bits w/ a drill bit in the center and it has a full circle blade around it.
It was a 1 3/4 round circle.
 
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