See thats what you get for being 70 miles behind me up tehre in louisville =)..

Get that roush yet??

Brandon

 

Yup, Roush is here. They had to backorder the front shocks and front springs. But we are moving right now so it's working out. Killing me until I get it installed though. The wife has been driving the L while I drive a beater and a trailer, I can't hardly get her out of my truck. I think that she likes it better than her Cobra. I can't keep from looking at the sweeeeet looking L in my rear view. She also enjoys all of the people waving at her and giving her the thumbs up. Her cobra doesn't give her 20% of the attention that she's getting in the L.

You and Cliff have the memory of a horse.

 

Maybe I'm getting it now. The magnets have X amount of force when totally disconnected from the circuit (just spinning a motor by hand you can feel the resistance). So you are saying that the force on the magnets is greater when the alternator is being asked to supply power? So, for instance, if there is a positive and negative wire coming off an alternator, and the wires are not connected to anything, the force exerted by the magnets would be greater if you then placed an electrical load in between the wires?

How does this happen?

 

I'm no expert. But I know that the armatures force is a constant like you mentioned. The electrical field is higher though, thus the extra load on the alternator.

 

Tim,

If i had time tonight (its 1am here) i'd document the parts and pieces of the alternator for you, but basically to answer your question there are no magnets inside the alternator. You have a winding (stator), rotor(brushes that pass the winding and steel plates) and rectifier (part that converts the alternating current to DC via the use of diodes)

When the rotor spins it creates a magnetic field, this field is impacted by the amount of 'load' on the alternator....Its this magnetic field that repels under load that adds the extra effort needed to spin...


I'll take the time to post to this tomarrow with a full how it works...sorry i dont have the time tonight...

Brandon

 

Remember, the electric fan is controlled by a thermostat. What I am saying is that unless the fan is running it takes zero hp. A water pump mounted fan is always turning. When we did the dyno- fan test I just removed my stock fan. I had no fan at all on it. Skip

 

Don't sweat it, Brandon. I'll do some homework on my end. Thanks for the info--never too old to learn something new.

 

SKip understood, also bear in mind a fan clutch does pretty much the very same thing.

Brandon

 

any recommendations on what fan setup to get and also what kind of price to expect?

 

I still picked up over 6 hp by removing the clutch fan. To be honest ,I didn't think that it would do anything. I was very surprised. Skip

 

Doesn't surprise me a bit, the clutch fan has inertia. Exact same concept as larger rims. The gain with it off is calculatible

 

I never said electric fans were not worthwhile =) I was saying that I would be interested in teh dyno date of a fan clutched run, and one with elec fans running...

Brandon

 

I believe i read that 746 watts =1 hp. Constant draw on a electric fan is probably about 15 amps. ( Much more on start up) Amps X volts = watts. 12 volts X 15 amps =180 watts. 746watts (1hp) divided by 180 (watts) = 1/4 hp. If I figured this right, the electric fan is still a winner by about 6 hp, since it takes only about 1/4 hp to run it. Skip

 

And the Perma-Cool kit, although it has two fans, also has a variable speed controller (60-100%).

Thanks for all the great info, guys. Definitely educational.

 

A point everyone is forgetting is not only the inertia change and the fact you can leave the fans off while going down the track, but also the power consumed with moving the air.

I would bet that at high engine speeds the load from moving the air is much larger than the inerita.