While at the muffler shop having the cracked muffler pipe welded
I noticed the pinion seal was leaking badly. I have a seal but have never replaced this specific type. The seal itself looks similar to a wheel bearing grease seal. Is the replacement about the same..Drop the shaft and pull the yoke out...pop out the seal.and tap the other in to seat it?
Hope this ain't another one of my dumb questions..
Thanks..Jeff
The PSP loop went on today and it was just a bolt on..no need to drop the drive shaft of drill any new holes....

 

thats correct, I'd recommend using a new pinion nut or at least some lock tight when reinstalling the companion flange, also advise not removing the companion flange from the pinion gear with a hammer as you could create a vibration. also don't overtighten the pinion nut, overtightening will further compress the crush sleeve and cause excessive pinion bearing preload which will cause premature wear or failure.

hope I didn't make it sound to complicated because it's not, but you should be careful.

good luck.

later,
chris

 

Technically, I believe it is more complicated than that. When you put the new pinion nut and crush sleeve on, the pinion should be tightened down such that the pre-load in the pinion is 12 in-lb (for used pinion bearings) and 25 in-lbs (for new pinion bearings). I believe these numbers are correct - someone else can correct, or just do a search. The only way to measure that recommended pre-load is to remove the differential carrier. If the proper pre-load is not given, the pinion bearing could crap out early.

Good luck.

 

thats absolutely correct, you have to measure bearing drag with a dial type inch/lb torque wrench. Unfortunately it's also pretty unrealistic. I've tried to tell people that you SHOULD do it that way for years, but in the end, nobody wants to pay 3 to 5 hours labor to replace a pinion seal when it can be done in less than 30 minutes the cheater way.

later,
chris

 

You mean they didn't have to drill HOLES in your cab floorboards?
Right through the carpet? And bolt it on inside?

I bought the wrong one!!! Dayum ...

 

Yep no drilling required. The PSP loop was a bolt on. A flat bar bolts to the frame about 6" back of the front u-joint. Then the loop itself is bolted to the flat bar. Plenty of room to drop the aluminium shaft for work.

 

Impact baby!