My Transmission has bit the dust...POS 4R70W!
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: South Dakota
hey daveman,
while they had tranny torn apart...were you able to figure out whether or not the slip yoke should recieve lubing from the tranny? just wondering as i know there was some debate on this awhile back...
troy
while they had tranny torn apart...were you able to figure out whether or not the slip yoke should recieve lubing from the tranny? just wondering as i know there was some debate on this awhile back...
troy
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Troy,
I didn't bother to look whether the slip yoke takes grease or not. My view on the yoke needing to be lubed with grease is still the same and that is it doesn't need it nor is it appropriate to do so. I have no reason to believe that yokes that are internally driven require extra lubrication other than that which is splashed and/or pumped or otherwise made available by some internal means.
With that statement made, externally driven yokes by all means need to be greased as there are no other means of lubrication. One example of an externally driven spline is when a truck or any vehicle has more than one drive shaft and it's connected via a slip joint with a shock mounted bearing. Usually, these types of split yoke spine systems are fitted with grease zerks so that it's obvious they are lubed with grease and so that it can be lubed without requiring removal of components.
If my dealer tells me they want to grease my driveshaft splines to eliminate the “thunk”, I'd just say I'll pass unless it was already at the shop getting work done for something else.
Mike,
As for the fence posts, I didn't use a GPS, I ran a very slack string line and only set posts in a minimum 20 mph wind; This creates the most reliable curve shape straight line possible therefore I could feel good about the direction that my fence was being constructed. When I dup the post holes, I reamed them from side to side to ensure proper mixing of the soils adjacent to the edge of the hole. The hole reaming creates the best all around surface finish so that the clam and oyster shell mortar mix can thoroughly and completely adhere to the posts and to the inside surface of the drilled earth. Have you had enough fence post engineering yet???
Seriously, I did use a transit to locate the property lines as well as determine the exact elevation along the fence line at five foot intervals such that the elevation at the bottom of the fence would not interfere with the lay of the land. With the elevation of the fence line within an 1/8th of an inch, I was able to determine the hole depth required at each post and then match the height of the finished fence at that specific post location. As for Blues Clues, you lost me so can you explain how Steve does that man???
Later guys,
~DM~
I didn't bother to look whether the slip yoke takes grease or not. My view on the yoke needing to be lubed with grease is still the same and that is it doesn't need it nor is it appropriate to do so. I have no reason to believe that yokes that are internally driven require extra lubrication other than that which is splashed and/or pumped or otherwise made available by some internal means.
With that statement made, externally driven yokes by all means need to be greased as there are no other means of lubrication. One example of an externally driven spline is when a truck or any vehicle has more than one drive shaft and it's connected via a slip joint with a shock mounted bearing. Usually, these types of split yoke spine systems are fitted with grease zerks so that it's obvious they are lubed with grease and so that it can be lubed without requiring removal of components.
If my dealer tells me they want to grease my driveshaft splines to eliminate the “thunk”, I'd just say I'll pass unless it was already at the shop getting work done for something else.
Mike,
As for the fence posts, I didn't use a GPS, I ran a very slack string line and only set posts in a minimum 20 mph wind; This creates the most reliable curve shape straight line possible therefore I could feel good about the direction that my fence was being constructed. When I dup the post holes, I reamed them from side to side to ensure proper mixing of the soils adjacent to the edge of the hole. The hole reaming creates the best all around surface finish so that the clam and oyster shell mortar mix can thoroughly and completely adhere to the posts and to the inside surface of the drilled earth. Have you had enough fence post engineering yet???
Seriously, I did use a transit to locate the property lines as well as determine the exact elevation along the fence line at five foot intervals such that the elevation at the bottom of the fence would not interfere with the lay of the land. With the elevation of the fence line within an 1/8th of an inch, I was able to determine the hole depth required at each post and then match the height of the finished fence at that specific post location. As for Blues Clues, you lost me so can you explain how Steve does that man???
Later guys,
~DM~
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
Mike,
The fence I built is basically level across the top too, I just had to take all the elevations to determine the lowest and highest points so I could set the elevation at the bottom of the fence. On the left side, the fence ran 220 linear feet and across the back, 100 linear feet and the other side it's 230 feet.
There is a brick in my yard and I took all my elevations relative to it. I set the elevation of the brick at 10' or 120". For the most part, the elevation at the bottom of the fence is set at 118" or 2" below the reference plane. In some locations, the gap from the bottom of the fence was about 2 inches and other places it's as much as 12 inches. There are only around 3 or 4 fence top elevations and none vary more than around 6".
I too have a PHD, post hole degree.
We may need to create a fence thread, what do you think?
~DM~
The fence I built is basically level across the top too, I just had to take all the elevations to determine the lowest and highest points so I could set the elevation at the bottom of the fence. On the left side, the fence ran 220 linear feet and across the back, 100 linear feet and the other side it's 230 feet.
There is a brick in my yard and I took all my elevations relative to it. I set the elevation of the brick at 10' or 120". For the most part, the elevation at the bottom of the fence is set at 118" or 2" below the reference plane. In some locations, the gap from the bottom of the fence was about 2 inches and other places it's as much as 12 inches. There are only around 3 or 4 fence top elevations and none vary more than around 6".
I too have a PHD, post hole degree.
We may need to create a fence thread, what do you think?
~DM~
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: NORTH ALBERTA CANADA
DAVEMANS TRANNY
HELLO DAVEMAN, I WAS LOOKING FOR AN UPDATE ON YOUR TRANSMISSON PROBLEM. HAD ANY LUCK? ALSO,IAM GOING TO PUT A REMOTE START IN MY RANCH BECAUSE OF THOSE NASTY WINTER DAYS UP HERE IN ALBERTA. SHOULD I SPEND THE MONEY ON FORD'S OR GO WITH AN AFTERMARKET?
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Summerville, SC Near Historic Charleston
John,
My tranny is doing fine now, other than the friggin' powder puff shifts it's good to go...
Now, I'm going to be looking at shift kits or a high performance valve body soon.
As for the remote starter, I bought one but I haven't installed it yet. I'm no expert on which one is the best but there are tons of other's that know much more than me and the one guy that comes to mind is "ScrewLoose". Look him up or do a search for remote starter and you'll be sure to find him and lots of help. My personal opinion would be to go aftermarket but that's just my 2 cents worth.
Later,
~DM~
My tranny is doing fine now, other than the friggin' powder puff shifts it's good to go...
Now, I'm going to be looking at shift kits or a high performance valve body soon.
As for the remote starter, I bought one but I haven't installed it yet. I'm no expert on which one is the best but there are tons of other's that know much more than me and the one guy that comes to mind is "ScrewLoose". Look him up or do a search for remote starter and you'll be sure to find him and lots of help. My personal opinion would be to go aftermarket but that's just my 2 cents worth.
Later,
~DM~