Plastic piece on shift lever snapped off!
The plastic piece on the end of my auto tranny shift lever broke off in my hand (the peice that holds the overdrive on/off button)! This happen to anyone else? Can I replace this piece myself? It looks like it just snaps in, but the overdrive button wiring will need to be threaded down through the shift lever, which means disassembling the steering column. Any help/advice is much appreciated!
Hey I had a similiar problem just last week the little cover over the overdrive switch just broke off in my hand I could not believe it. It does seem to just clip right in, but the little clips on mine broke off so I was just going to use the old trusty super glue but I am going to the Ford delearship tomorrow for a job interview so when I get through I will see the service department and see if they have any and how much. So if I find anything I will post back.
I'll second that Beast97
And that part I didn't think they would have in stock. Funny isn't it. Went in to get brake pads, had to have them shipped out of Fords warehouse in Baltimore,Maryland to my dealer. Weird. You would think they would stock things like that. I mean the brakes were there the next day, but I was ready to do them then. Oh well. Can't win them all.
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F150 Ram Air, are you out there?
Hey Ram Air, nice truck. How does your system with the bass tube/cannon/whatever it is called sound? How about the tweeters in the door panels? One important question, How did you make it so that your fog lights turn on with your parking lights? For some reason with factory ford's the headlights need to be on. I wish they were like my Chrysler 300M and be turned on with the parking lights.
Here is a post that I had from about a month ago. There are other ways, but this seems to work the best for me. Plus, it's the way I figured out to do it.
I've been running my fogs by themselves for 3 years now. Go under the hood. Your gonna need wire, one flat male connector, three female connectores of the same, an a good three prong toggle switch or button switch. The switch has to be at least 25 amp, NO LESS. Ok, under the hood there's two black boxs on the right hand side. One big one which got fuses. The other is a small one that has relays. That's the one you want. Open it up, their are two rows of relays. First row closer to the front of the truck. All the way to the right. Pull that relay. Now, their are 5 slots for that relay to plug into. Two vertical, three horizontal. Get some good wire, put a male flat connector on and plug it into the center slot of the two. Smack dab in the middle. Run that wire to the inside of the truck. Find a place to put your toggle switch. I put mine in the fuse cover plate in between the brake release and the hood lever. Now, fine a place of power, plenty of wires under the dash with power. Run a wire for power, and run a wire for ground. Take the three female connectors, put them on the ground, power, and source. Source being the wire you ran from under the hood. Hook them up to your toggle switch. An there you go. I,ve got a 30 amp lighted button switch, so I know if the fogs are on or not. Plus I found a power source that work with the ignition. Meaning their would only be power to the switch with the key on. Hope this helps out dude.
Real easy mod and set-up.
The sub is only a 61/2 tube. But you defintely know it's there. Doesn't take up alot of space either. It doesn't hit like a 10", btu it does the job. The tweeters. Best thing I ever did. Makes it sound that much better. Crystal clear sound. You hear everything going on in the music. I defintely go that route for a definte sound mod.
I've been running my fogs by themselves for 3 years now. Go under the hood. Your gonna need wire, one flat male connector, three female connectores of the same, an a good three prong toggle switch or button switch. The switch has to be at least 25 amp, NO LESS. Ok, under the hood there's two black boxs on the right hand side. One big one which got fuses. The other is a small one that has relays. That's the one you want. Open it up, their are two rows of relays. First row closer to the front of the truck. All the way to the right. Pull that relay. Now, their are 5 slots for that relay to plug into. Two vertical, three horizontal. Get some good wire, put a male flat connector on and plug it into the center slot of the two. Smack dab in the middle. Run that wire to the inside of the truck. Find a place to put your toggle switch. I put mine in the fuse cover plate in between the brake release and the hood lever. Now, fine a place of power, plenty of wires under the dash with power. Run a wire for power, and run a wire for ground. Take the three female connectors, put them on the ground, power, and source. Source being the wire you ran from under the hood. Hook them up to your toggle switch. An there you go. I,ve got a 30 amp lighted button switch, so I know if the fogs are on or not. Plus I found a power source that work with the ignition. Meaning their would only be power to the switch with the key on. Hope this helps out dude.
Real easy mod and set-up.
The sub is only a 61/2 tube. But you defintely know it's there. Doesn't take up alot of space either. It doesn't hit like a 10", btu it does the job. The tweeters. Best thing I ever did. Makes it sound that much better. Crystal clear sound. You hear everything going on in the music. I defintely go that route for a definte sound mod.
Thanks for the help. I like how the tweeters look and I am going to put my 12" XPL out of my camaro into my truck. She thumped in the Camaro so she should sound great in the truck. Did you keep your factory head unit? If so how did you add the amp? I would like to keep mine because I have the tape and 6disc changer and would like to do little or no splicing.
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Check these out. They have their Billet A/C ***** ready, also..
Check these out. They have their Billet A/C ***** ready, also..


