soundproofing

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Old Apr 22, 2001 | 01:10 AM
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Post soundproofing

i need some info.soundproofing, how difficult is it to do it myself. what stuff to use. and are there any books anyone recommends that will help me take the interior apart. what i might want to think about doing to the truck while i have it taken apart. any and all info appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2001 | 04:30 PM
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Sound deadening material you buy from a car stereo shop is the same as a roofing material called Grace Ice & Water Shield. It is a rubberized tar material smooth on one side and sticky on the other. I had a cavalier that was in IASCA car stereo competitions. I had a roll and a half of this **** covering every piece of metal under the seats and carpets. I'll sum it up like this.
1. It definately works. No rattles with a stereo with an RMS rating of 1200 watts and 4 batteries. 125 dB recorded. Popped windshield and every lightbulb element.
2. It's $50 for a lifetime supply rather than $8 a square foot.
3. It made the car smell like a an old shoe in the winter and an ashtray in the summer from all the tar. Your windows may get an orange film in the summer heat.
I would strongly suggest a spray on foam from a professional dealer that became available a year after I retired from the stereo business. It is very expensive! Fosgate used to distribute it before the company went to ****. Hope this helps.
 
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Old May 21, 2001 | 08:36 PM
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Who makes this spay in sound proofing and does it help with road noise as well?

Thanks
Jimmar

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Old May 22, 2001 | 04:51 PM
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One word. Dynamat...
So quiet, and your ears will pop when you turn on the A/C...







------------------
Rich
1999.5 SVT Lightning - Red. 100HP Shot Nitrous(NOS), NGK TR6 Plugs, BellTech 3/4 drop, BellTech Nitroactive shocks, Ford MotorSport Chrome Lightning wheels, JDM Chip. K&N Filter. Viper Alarm w/remote start, Sir Michael's roll pan, smooth corners and steps w/billet inserts, clear corner lenses, Cervinis Ram Air hood, ARE Cover w/ wing, Momo billet pedals, cd changer, cover, Phantom boost and nitrous gauges, MTX Thunderform w/ 2 - 10" JL Audio W-3 subs. 5-channel 500w. Clarion amp., (4)Polk Audio 3-way, 130w. DX 7's, Color-matched Muth signal mirrors, Soundproofed cab, BedRug, Trenz billet grills, Piaa 9007 Super Whites, Bucket Seat Conversion, Carbon fiber dash(photogenesis), etc. Build #2755
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Old May 23, 2001 | 02:50 AM
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What's does it cost to soundproof a cab? I would want to soundproof the floor, back cab wall and the doors. Thanks

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Old May 23, 2001 | 08:17 AM
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Freak:

$200.00 and a full day to disassemble/reassemble.

Be sure to buy the Dynamat from someone who gets it in big rolls(stereo shops, etc.)

If you buy the little boxes of it, it gets $$$. You'll need 50sqft. +-

Rich
 
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Old May 23, 2001 | 03:23 PM
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Cool

I had my carpet up while putting in an amplifier,and I noticed that it had pretty good coverage already on the floors.(XLT ext. cab) How many square feet for the back wall and doors,Tampa?

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Old May 23, 2001 | 03:40 PM
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Screamer:

You can tell from my pics. that there was absolutely no soundproofing from the factory.

You can probably do the wall and doors w/30-35 sqft. You have to adjust for the shape of the metal. It's not flat.

If you do the back wall, cover the HUGE vents. That's where most of the road noise comes from.

Rich
 
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Old May 23, 2001 | 06:05 PM
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Question

I noticed there are different kinds of dynamat, TampaSVT which di you use that was so quiet? does 50 sq ft cover the floor, back wall, and doors?

------------------
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best 1/4 mile: 17.1 @ 81.53 MPH
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Old May 23, 2001 | 06:12 PM
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Broken, you can also use material from McMaster-Carr. It is esentially the same as dynamat (and the ice roofing material) Insulating the whole cab...doors, floor, roof, back wall, does make a noticable differance. However, I would advise against covering the rear vents, it will severly reduce the efficancy of your hvac.

I see that you have the 16" perma cool....is that the open style or the plastic enclosed one? How is it working for you, I dumped my twin 14" perma cools for a single 16" Derale (marked improvment)......

------------------
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Perma-cool 8" Electric Trans Cooler Fan, 2.02" Radiator, 16" Derale cooling fan, Superchip (flipchip), Map lights in overhead, tinted windows, back up lights, soundproofed cab.
 
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Old May 23, 2001 | 09:34 PM
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Shark:
Everyone says the same thing about the vents affecting the A/C. Not true...

Think about it. I live in S. Florida. A/C still works perfectly..
The only thing that it affects is how easily the doors close.
I've had the vents covered now for almost two tropical summers... No A/C problems.

Broken:
50sqft. should do the floor, doors and back wall. Cover the vents if you want to. It doesn't affect the A/C.

Rich
 
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Old May 23, 2001 | 09:43 PM
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As far as the soundproofing goes, i would be doing it to reduce road noise, it it worth it and how do the price/performace stack up for the many different avalible materials. I don't have a problem spending the money, but it has to be worth the cost.

shark99
I actually have the perma cool 16" open and I also added an additional fan, it was from a '85 olds 98, it has a shroud and moves air like a mother.

After a few tests with only the permacool, I decided that It wasn't cool enough in stop and go traffic. I have the shrouded fan kick on with a temp sensor. The permacool I have wired so that I can turn it on when the A/C is on. The shrouded fan is enough by itself, but when I an sitting I turn on the permacool to keep things cool. My setup isnt the cleanest looking, but I care more about the MPG gains, I calculated it to be about 1.5 for highway.

------------------
My first Baby:
2000 SC XLT Bright Red, 4.2L
5speed
K&N air filter
3" intake mod
16" perma cool electric fan
Jacobs DIS
best 1/4 mile: 17.1 @ 81.53 MPH
total MPG average to date 19.15

My Second (but most important) Baby:
Hailey Jean, born April 9, 2000
 
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Old May 23, 2001 | 09:50 PM
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broken:

Dynamat is top of the line and probably the most expensive.

There is another that is pretty good. It's called B-Quiet(seriously). Similar to Dynamat, but substantially cheaper.

Both probably work equally as well.


Rich
 
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Old May 31, 2001 | 07:01 PM
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Another reason that the vents are in the back of the cab is in case the airbags go off. Too many people were having their ears "blown" in crashes because of the airbags going off and increasing the in cab pressure. Since the cabs are so air tight, they put the larger vents in or so some of my EMS/Fire training says. Just my $.02

Later,
Roger

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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 12:13 AM
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Stay away from the B-Quiet product if you live in a warmer area. It has adherance problems if used on the rear walls. And the manufacturers themselves say not to use it in the overhead. Someone in AZ used the stuff on his rear wall, and the whole batch just detached and slid south in one big gooey drek.
Cascade makes the spray on stuff. I used that for the interior of my door. You can find it at Parts Express. Three cans did all four doors in my SCrew.
 
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