Musty smell!
I've got this musty smell in my vehicle that I can't seem to get rid of. I've cleaned the carpets with foam carpet cleaner, baking soda,powdered carpet cleaners, lysol spray and they all just mask the odor temporarily. Someone said I should check the fresh air intake for the heater core and make sure the condensate tube for the evap is clear. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
There's a possibility that the odor is coming from the A/C. Does it disappear after you use the A/C for a while? If so, you can do a search in the HVAC section. You can click on the following link to give you a start for what to look for:
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000040.html
The musty a/c odor is a chronic problem if you tend to leave the a/c control in the OFF or MAX A/C position after you run the a/c compressor. All the other positions will keep the outside vent door open and will allow the a/c ducting and evaporator coils to air out and dry which will help prevent the growth of mold.
If it's in the carpet, then you need to get a steam/hot water cleaner and clean all the carpets. Use the carpet cleaner detergent first, then clean it a second time with just hot water, then a third time with 1 cup of white vinegar in a gallon of hot water.
If the odor persists, then you need to find yourself an ozone generator. Better rental places who rent out cleaning equipment should be able to help you. Don't over do it with the ozone, though, since it's rather corrosive in high concentrations and can destroy rubber.
Hope this info helps.
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000040.html
The musty a/c odor is a chronic problem if you tend to leave the a/c control in the OFF or MAX A/C position after you run the a/c compressor. All the other positions will keep the outside vent door open and will allow the a/c ducting and evaporator coils to air out and dry which will help prevent the growth of mold.
If it's in the carpet, then you need to get a steam/hot water cleaner and clean all the carpets. Use the carpet cleaner detergent first, then clean it a second time with just hot water, then a third time with 1 cup of white vinegar in a gallon of hot water.
If the odor persists, then you need to find yourself an ozone generator. Better rental places who rent out cleaning equipment should be able to help you. Don't over do it with the ozone, though, since it's rather corrosive in high concentrations and can destroy rubber.
Hope this info helps.
flstc98,
I was at WalMart yesterday and bought some Febreze Auto. It is a fabric spray that is supposed to eliminate all odors. I haven’t tried it yet. I will let you know how it works. This formula is made for autos.
I was at WalMart yesterday and bought some Febreze Auto. It is a fabric spray that is supposed to eliminate all odors. I haven’t tried it yet. I will let you know how it works. This formula is made for autos.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I found a website: www.airsept.com which was very helpful. Their company specializes in odor control for cars. I'm in contact with them and I'll let you know if their product works. I tried the fabreze a few times and it did'nt work at all. The hot water/vinegar solution sounds good...I'll give it a try.
You might want to check and see if your rear window is leaking. We had a musty smell too and couldn't fingure it out till we pullled the back seat and found the carpet molding from the leak. May not apply to your truck..but FYI.
I found a related article at the KBB website: http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.s...article_ralph1
A Way That Motorists Can Break the Mold
If your car smells like dirty socks or spoiled milk, you might have sick car syndrome.
The problem goes way beyond a nuisance and in many cases causes such respiratory problems as sneezing, coughing, tightening of the chest and drowsiness.
Although this problem has been around for a long time, it’s getting worse. But there is also good news: Remedies to fix the problem are more effective than ever.
The source of the smelly malady is mold, a single cell organism that grows in the dark and wet environment in your car’s air-conditioning system.
The fungi in your air-conditioning grow on a part called the evaporator core, which is deep inside your dashboard. The core, which looks like a small radiator, circulates cold Freon from the compressor under the hood.
The evaporator core gets wet, because humidity condenses on the core surface. Mold loves wet surfaces and it gets food from pollen in the air, dead insects or bits of leaves that blow in through the outside vents.
Until now, getting the mold off the evaporator core was very costly and repairs often lasted only weeks. You can kill mold with an antimicrobial treatment—even Lysol works—but the mold will reappear.
General Motors, Chrysler and six other manufacturers are distributing a product to dealerships that can eliminate the problem. It is not available directly to consumers. A treatment should cost about $75 to $110, depending on a dealer’s labor charge.
Apart from the treatment, motorists can do plenty to combat mold. Remove dead leaves near the air intakes around the windshield cowling. Dry all liquid spills inside the car, especially milk. Clean stale food out of the car. And periodically, run the blower without the air-conditioning on for 10 minutes, because it can dry off the evaporator core.
More automotive articles here: http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.s...444&Tools_Tips
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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with super engine cooling/auxiliary transmission cooling HD package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil, build 7/2000
A Way That Motorists Can Break the Mold
If your car smells like dirty socks or spoiled milk, you might have sick car syndrome.
The problem goes way beyond a nuisance and in many cases causes such respiratory problems as sneezing, coughing, tightening of the chest and drowsiness.
Although this problem has been around for a long time, it’s getting worse. But there is also good news: Remedies to fix the problem are more effective than ever.
The source of the smelly malady is mold, a single cell organism that grows in the dark and wet environment in your car’s air-conditioning system.
The fungi in your air-conditioning grow on a part called the evaporator core, which is deep inside your dashboard. The core, which looks like a small radiator, circulates cold Freon from the compressor under the hood.
The evaporator core gets wet, because humidity condenses on the core surface. Mold loves wet surfaces and it gets food from pollen in the air, dead insects or bits of leaves that blow in through the outside vents.
Until now, getting the mold off the evaporator core was very costly and repairs often lasted only weeks. You can kill mold with an antimicrobial treatment—even Lysol works—but the mold will reappear.
General Motors, Chrysler and six other manufacturers are distributing a product to dealerships that can eliminate the problem. It is not available directly to consumers. A treatment should cost about $75 to $110, depending on a dealer’s labor charge.
Apart from the treatment, motorists can do plenty to combat mold. Remove dead leaves near the air intakes around the windshield cowling. Dry all liquid spills inside the car, especially milk. Clean stale food out of the car. And periodically, run the blower without the air-conditioning on for 10 minutes, because it can dry off the evaporator core.
More automotive articles here: http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.s...444&Tools_Tips
------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with super engine cooling/auxiliary transmission cooling HD package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil, build 7/2000
With the truck running and the AC REGULAR on, and the setting on panel, spray some lysol in the air intake(black plastic where the windshield meets the hood)... It will kill the bacteria.
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1997 F-250 LD XLT 4x4
All-Star Bed Liner
5th Wheel Hitch
Soft Tonneau Cover
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1997 F-250 LD XLT 4x4
All-Star Bed Liner
5th Wheel Hitch
Soft Tonneau Cover


