Hello....

My 2003 F-150 (4.6 V-8) has run perfect for 147,000 miles. Today I lost A/C cooling. The A/C clutch is not engaging. I have done all the usual tests. There is 100psi static pressure. I have checked all fuses, relays and diodes. I have jumped the low pressure cut out switch with no help. Unfortunately it would take a double jointed Leprechaun to unplug the electrical connector from the A/C clutch so I am unable (so far) to check for voltage at that connector. I literally CAN NOT EVEN SEE the connector.

I have traced part of the wiring harness to the engine compartment that goes down to the compressor. I have split it open with a razor knife and I found 4 wires and a "bare" braided ground wire.

There are 2 whites, one black and one blue wire (plus the braided ground).


HERE IS MY QUESTION: Does anyone know what color the wires are on the A/C clutch connector for a 2003 Ford F-150 Lariat 4.6 V8?

Thanks,
Denny
Ocala, FL

 

Stop. Backup. Put down the knife. Did you check the clutch gap? Common issue as the clutch wears out.

You can make a quick resistance check to see if the clutch circuit is intact. Pull the AC clutch diode (NOTE POLARITY FIRST), check resistance from the cathode (banded end) socket terminal to vehicle chassis ground. If that portion is good, then you'll usually measure around 4 ohms, depending o the accuracy of your meter. No need to perform surgery on the wiring harness to make basic tests.

 

Thank you very much for your help. I will do that check today. I did check the diode yesterday and it did show continuity in only one direction. I also swapped the relay with another relay of the same number.

I can't believe how difficult it is to reach the electrical connector on the clutch. I noticed the bolt in the center of the clutch is missing. Could that be the problem?

I appreciate you assistance. Thank you.

 

Diode cannot cause this problem.

Absolutely.That means the clutch hub has probably fallen off. Skip the electrical stuff until you have it all put back together. If the bolt is gone and the hub is still there, it will still not work.

The hub looks like this (usually):


If you're staring at this on the front of the compressor, the hub is AWOL.



Hub: Motorcraft YB3020
Autozone carries a hardware kit with the bolt and a set of shims for 2 bucks: Santech MT0986


The hub looks like this (usually):

 

Thanks again for your help!

Okay....I ohmed out the diode socket and got 4.6 ohms. I then turned on the A/C to "max" (with the diode out) and got no voltage on either side of the socket. Shouldn't there be voltage there?

I have the "top photo above". I also have a wide gap between the hub and the clutch. Probably 3/16". I will go to Autozone and pick up that hardware kit and I will get back to you with the results.

Again...THANK YOU FOR YOU HELP!


UPDATE: CORRECTION on the voltage at the diode socket. I just went out to the truck and checked the voltage again at the diode socket with the engine running and and got 14.3v on one side of the socket. Turned engine off and got no voltage.

 

To: projectSHO89

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!

I owe you a beer, a scotch, a coke or a glass of milk or whatever you drink!

I went to Autozone and got that repair kit and set the air gap to .040, installed the bolt and the A/C kicked right on!

I live on Social Security and really could not afford to take it to a shop. With your help my total cost for the repair was $2.11!!!!!

Thanks again!

Denny

 

Add another $.02 to the bill to pay for my two cents worth!

Glad it worked out!

Hey, I'll drink just about anything, as long as it doesn't have coconut in it .. one of the few things that I don't care for.