need advice about flushing radiator
need advice about flushing radiator
money is still tight for me and with my '96 f150, with 351 Windsor, I purchased late august, i'm going to drain the radiator because previous owner just had water in it.
a shop said with the fall weather here in southern Oregon, which is still in the 60's mid day said it usually takes 3 hours to flush the rad. They don't use a machine, they use something else and I forgot.
antifreeze included with the flush for 87 Bucks.
radiator doesn't seem to have any of that white stuff build up but should I spend the 87.00 or should I just drain it, and throw in new Peak Antifreeze?
i'll spend the 87.00 if it would truly be better with the technology they will be using. Thanks very much
a shop said with the fall weather here in southern Oregon, which is still in the 60's mid day said it usually takes 3 hours to flush the rad. They don't use a machine, they use something else and I forgot.
antifreeze included with the flush for 87 Bucks.radiator doesn't seem to have any of that white stuff build up but should I spend the 87.00 or should I just drain it, and throw in new Peak Antifreeze?
i'll spend the 87.00 if it would truly be better with the technology they will be using. Thanks very much
Go buy a flushing tee kit and some full strength antifreeze and do it yourself.
http://www.prestone.com/products/print/461?popup=1
http://www.prestone.com/products/print/461?popup=1
Might consider corrosive issues. Correct me if wrong, it seems manufacturers have taken the position of always use the fluid that it originally came with. It would be nice to know if there is real science behind that position. Part of the controversy I ran across was that if switching say green to orange, it would create a gunky sludge. And maybe make a head gasket situation worse.
Years ago I switched some vehicles to prestone 5 year and even though I flushed thoroughly I would start to see a sludge in reservoir accumulating as time proceded. I can't tell you where it may have all located through system but it was extremely hard to clean from reservoir. It took many flushings with soap, cleaner, and even brake cleaner to get it out. A high powered solvent like brake cleaner seemed to be the key to breaking it down enough to allow other things to work. Just thought I'd throw this in to convince you might need to make a decision as to what coolant you really want to use.
There was some indication that manufacturers might be observing interaction at the head gaskets because of slight residue from a product change. GM was fighting the class action from the position that there is allowable seepage at head gasket so the customer created the situation by changing fluid types or brands or something.
Years ago I switched some vehicles to prestone 5 year and even though I flushed thoroughly I would start to see a sludge in reservoir accumulating as time proceded. I can't tell you where it may have all located through system but it was extremely hard to clean from reservoir. It took many flushings with soap, cleaner, and even brake cleaner to get it out. A high powered solvent like brake cleaner seemed to be the key to breaking it down enough to allow other things to work. Just thought I'd throw this in to convince you might need to make a decision as to what coolant you really want to use.
There was some indication that manufacturers might be observing interaction at the head gaskets because of slight residue from a product change. GM was fighting the class action from the position that there is allowable seepage at head gasket so the customer created the situation by changing fluid types or brands or something.







Right on, thank you GLC. i'll chime back with my results