So I feel like a total dufus. I bought another can of R134A with a different quick connect and gauge. I bought the stuff from NAPA. I don't think I had much of a better outcome. I have watched videos on how to do this procedure and the directions on the cans are identical and pretty straight forward. I at least get the gauge to change it went up a bit. but not much I'm afraid to overcharge the system and it was much more difficult to get this quick connect connected to my low side. This can had all of maybe 5 inches of hose and my low side is kind of down almost below the PCM. I don't have much room to work here.

I agitate the can, but there's not much room to agitate the can. And I'm not a auto idiot. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble?

Sorry I don't mean to hijack the thread here, but I figured this might help the OP too.

 

I bought my first set of gauges (R12) (Yellow Jacket brand) back in the 80's I believe from Merritt Holland, the co. that sells oxygen and acetylene to shops for about $30. My R134A gauges, I bought from a large auto parts store in Birmingham Al for about $130 in 2005. Both are good quality. Nowadays, unless you live in a large city, you may have to order a gauge set. Most stores these days only stock what sells often. About the only market for the full gauge set is mechanic shops and AC repair places. So, a place that caters to these places is where you may find them.

 

Thanks for the input. I feel like a clown trying to do this and I don't seem to be getting anywhere.

 

Yes, I have the exact same problem, same can and short hose. I am going to use a longer hose with brass quick connects week after next and try again to add refrigerant. My pressure never changed on the gauge and I couldn't tell if there was anything going or not. After squeezing and fighting it for about twenty minutes I quit. Not enough hose and the can is too big and in the way to do what the directions said.

 

It helps to run your engine at about 1800 rpm when putting the r134 in.
On the Fords the refrigerant is going into the accumulator(The aluminum canister mounted on the firewall) It is OK to let liquid go into the accumulator, because the vacuum will make dissipate before it gets to the compressor (unless your system is overcharged). Running your engine at 18k rpm it is OK to add 134a to it until the gauge reads 30 to 35 HG (pounds) of pressure. The high pressure side will vary depending on the ambient temperature. One reason to do that rpm is that it is the normal operating speed for the engine. Another is to create the vacuum to get the refrigerant (Freon in my terms, but some people are picky about the words you use around here) out of the can.

On some systems that the low pressure schrader valve is in line and not on the accumulator, it is important not to put liquid in that type system.

I have been doing it this way for more than 30 years, and have never damaged a system. Except once I burned a compressor diode on a chevy because I jump the compressor clutch the wrong way.:o

I'm not licenced, but did work for a refrigeration company for a while before licencing was required. Plus I do all the maintenance work on my walk in coolers and A/C systems at work and home.

It is also necessary to purge the air from the gauge set before you connect them.