I have a 1997 F-150 with 112K on it. The first heater core failed just as I turned to 100K. I am now on heater core #4. Each one fails after 2 to 3k miles. I think I finally found the solution with some after-market products. First of all, in order to understand the electrolysis process and to determine what type of electrolysis you have, I suggest reviewing this web site: http://voltagedrop.biz/

Next I learned about an additive from: http://interjectusa.com/

I added the fluid to my coolant, installed the sacrificing anode in the cap of the coolant reservoir, installed an in-line micron filter to the input of the heater core and finally added the special ground wire kit. My measured electrolysis voltage has dropped from .755 volts to below 0.040. I’ll keep you posted on how this latest heater core holds up. The distributer for this product says that, if implemented correctly, this should be the last heater core problem for this truck.

Unfortunately, after getting the truck home I discovered that I am only blowing hot air out the vents. Dealer says the blend actuator motor is bad and he wants $480 to fix that. When will it ever end?

 

Make sure you don't have a vacum leak in the lines up by the battery, mine had a cracked line and only had defrost.

...hope I never need a heater core...knock on wood

snow

 

Unfortunately you didn't find the solution you only band-aided the problem. If you've gone through four cores in 10k miles due to electrolysis you have a voltage leak or a grounding problem somewhere in the system. I'd put a decent hamburger on it being a grounding problem, either chassis/block or block/battery. Start by checking all your grounds and making sure all your electronics are grounded in the harness and not via a short into the HVAC system somewhere.

Brad

 

Thanks for the comments. I did the testing recommended at voltagedrop.biz to discover if my problem was from type A or type B electrolysis. Type A is caused by the bad or missing ground you referred to. Type B is where your coolant system acts like a battery with your coolant fluid and aluminum products teaming up to create a battery effect. This eats your aluminum metal just like your lead plates in the battery get sacrificed to the electrolyte in your car battery. Mine turned out to be type B. The additives brought down my coolant voltage from 750mv to .04mv. Not too many folks know about this, but Mac's Radiator in Belleflower, CA permantely fix electrolysis problems all the time and distribute this stuff. Talk to Bruce there and get a great education on the causes and fixes for this common problem. By the way, he says he sees the same problem in Ford, Cheveys, Dodge and GM.

 

You never mentioned how often the coolant was flushed with your perfect maintenance? Coolant is one of the most neglected things done. Also by adding tap water or water that was not distilled will speed up electrolysis along with low grade antifreeze.

 

The distilled water is the thing most people never do.
The other important factor, is people adding accessories to their truck and not properly grounding them.

Tap water has more minerals in it. As it flows through the different metals in the cooling system, it naturally ionizes the water. That static charge eats the metals away.

 

I did follow Ford's recommend service schedule for the cooling system. I have never added any type of water to the system. I did have the coolant changed and system flushed by Jiffy lube a few times and of course can't swear they didn't add some tap water. Who knows? The only after market electronics I had installed was the RV trailer brake.