A/C compresssor lock up

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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #1  
Moonen's Avatar
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A/C compresssor lock up

I'm in the carpool line at my kids school checking out the hot moms, when my A/C starts rattling. I turned off the A/C till the kids get in, then back on when we got on the road. Five minutes later we notice the HOT asbestos smell, which is actually my A/C clutch. I turned the A/C off again till we got home, popped the hood, turned on the A/C. Cluth engages, sounds normal, yet it's not cooling.

Why would the compressor seem to lock up. It does have some age so maybe it's just time for a new compressor.

Any advice on changing the compressor. I'm gueaaing the clutch is ruined as well.

It's a '92 with 156K loyal city miles.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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still on original AC system from 92? WOW thats built FORD tough!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 01:19 AM
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The clutch is engaging but its fried and the compressor isn't turning because its suffered a catastrophic mechanical failure. Thats my guess.

Let it run a minute. If the clutch is engaged and there is no temperature differential in the suction and discharge lines, the compressor has likely given up the ghost based on your description of events.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by wreedKR
still on original AC system from 92? WOW thats built FORD tough!
My 91 is still all original. The only change was to R134A.....

The clutch was starting to act up from being worn, so I just took the spacer washer out of the clutch....
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 07:03 AM
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Is the R12 oil compatible with R134a ?

I bought a new compressor and PAG oil from O'reilly's. Installation went flawless, one of the easier jobs that I've done on this truck.

The original compressor was converted to 134a last year and I didn't change the oil in it. (I was told it didn't have to be changed) At 156K on the original unit, did I lead to it's demise by not changing the R12 oil or was it's goose cooked by this time anyway. I live in FL so the A/C gets a work out almost year round. I saw oils that said they were compatible with both freons.

Shawn
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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Its likely the compressor just plain wore out. I doubt the oil was the culprit unless oil was accidentally removed from the system during the conversion and the proper amount wasn't replaced.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Moonen
I bought a new compressor and PAG oil from O'reilly's. Installation went flawless, one of the easier jobs that I've done on this truck.

The original compressor was converted to 134a last year and I didn't change the oil in it. (I was told it didn't have to be changed) At 156K on the original unit, did I lead to it's demise by not changing the R12 oil or was it's goose cooked by this time anyway. I live in FL so the A/C gets a work out almost year round. I saw oils that said they were compatible with both freons.

Shawn
Did you evacuate the system with a pump? Most A/C compressors bought from auto parts stores only last a year or so...even if done correctly. Good Luck.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 07:37 AM
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Yes, I evacuated the system and let it hold to check for leaks. Why would a
parts store's compressor only last a year vs OEM?
 
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:23 AM
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Because they're sometimes not built as well, especially in discount parts stores like the zone. Buy from NAPA, CarQuest, PartsPlus+, Union, or Ford. And if the orifice tube filter had any metal shavings on it, you should have replaced the condenser, too.



Yes, R-134a causes mineral oil (R-12 type) to gel, which causes the compressor to wear out prematurely. You should have flushed the entire system, replaced the accumulator, and ALL the O-rings. And you should have installed a new red orifice tube. This TSB gives the correct charge for R-134a systems in these trucks:

TSB 94-19-20 R-134a Charge

Publication Date: SEPTEMBER 21, 1994

LIGHT TRUCK: 1994-95 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES, F-47

ISSUE: Ford Climate Control Division has increased the refrigerant charge in the subject vehicles from 2 lbs. 1 oz. to 2 lbs. 6 ozs.

ACTION: When service to the A/C system is required, recharge the A/C system with 2 lbs. 6 oz. of R-134a. Make the necessary corrections to the 1994-95 Service Manuals, pages 12-00-35, 12-03A-58 for 1994 and 12-00-39, 12-03A-56 for 1995.

Obtain an Authorized Modifications Decal and list the date, dealer number, and summary of alterations performed. Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications Decal. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 06:38 AM
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I knew that job went too easy. I'll get the parts and do it right the second time.
 
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Old May 4, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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if you use the orange orifice tube instead of the red one your a/c will blow about 20 deg colder than if you use the red one but it will have a tendency to freeze up if you run it on max a/c with the temp control turned all the way down and the blower on low. and since you live in florida where its hot like here in tx you will like the extra cooling especially since 136a doesnt work as good as r12 after its been converted in older vehicles.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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help?

i dont suppose anyone has a How-To somewhere for replacing the compressor on a 2000 5.4l F150?
250K miles and this is the only real problem ive had... lets talk about built ford tough... lol

//Zac//
 
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