Floor = vent apparently?

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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 03:56 AM
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Floor = vent apparently?

so i have an intermittent problem that sometimes when i get into my truck I loose air directed to the floor, it just dumps out the dash vents instead. A few times i even lost defrost, it generally doesn't last that long before magically going away. I have checked my electrical connections, taking bumps or my truck over railroad tracks doesn't fix it.... and best yet sometimes it works perfect.
I am leaning towards a failing switch or a sticking blend door....
I talked to a few people at the local dealership and they gave me the "that sucks look" and said they have never heard of that issue.
I don't want to rip it all out to check for a cracked pivot or whatever
any suggestions?
i have 65 000 but only had warienty till 60
 
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 07:28 AM
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The blend door is used only for temperature control so it can be ruled out.

Assuming you have the electronic climate control, the mode doors that direct system airflow are operated by electrical motors under the control to the EATC. There are two doors: One directs air between the floor and the defrost, the other switches airflow to the panel or not.

There is a built-in self test that can be run to see if the EATC has self-diagnosed any faults. This is from the 04 manual, should be the same as the 05.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module On-demand Self-Test

The EATC module on-demand self-test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the EATC module on-demand self-test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any continuous DTCs.

The EATC module on-demand self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module on-demand self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°C - 38°C (40°F - 100°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show a flashing blower icon for 20 seconds, after which all vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present the EATC module will display "00 00" and then on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
To exit the self-test and retain all DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The EATC module will exit the self-test and retain all DTCs.
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The EATC module will exit the self-test and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the self-test is exited the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.
If you happen to get a DTC, I (or someone else) can look it up.

Steve
 

Last edited by projectSHO89; Nov 17, 2007 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 04:03 PM
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I should have mentioned that I have a rotatory style controls.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by City of Champs
I should have mentioned that I have a rotatory style controls.

Yeah, that would have been helpful.

Steve
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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From: Windsor, ON / Ft. McMurray, AB
so what is the proper name of this door that directs airflow to either floor or defrost. Also where is it located? anyone have pictures? I have looked through the Haynes manual I picked up today and there is no mention of this component
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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Could be a vacuum line that is loose/cracked
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 05:44 PM
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From: Windsor, ON / Ft. McMurray, AB
it is electrically actuated so no vacuum problems
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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your problem is either the MODE door actuator or the mode switch. ive seen both. the mode door actuator is located to the right of the throttle pedal.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 07:51 PM
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does anyone know of a test procedure for the mode door?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 03:54 AM
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Seems we may have same issues....my 04 screw does the same, dash vents blow when set to floor (cold feet syndrome ggrrrrr) also a/c light comes on and goes off randomly but mostly on (it can be turned off but will come back on anyways or if I switch vent selection). Same with recirc light and won't respond to manual inputs, very frustrating!! It does eventually settle into dash vents regardless of output choice or defrost when set to defrost. I have the rotary *****, non automatic climate control. If other then defrost the blower motor cuts out randomly as well. Where does one start?? relays faulty?? rotary selector switch?? it really seems suspect although feels like a good switch and moves smoothly/freely.
 

Last edited by janf; Nov 22, 2007 at 04:08 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 12:56 AM
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so I ripped my mode door actuator out, I have no resistance specs so i just took it apart on the bench and checked the gears for dirt or whatever, all good. I put the motor on battery power to check how well it ran and strong, all seems well so i put it back together.....
Im leaning towards a switch. The blower switch can be purchased separately, but you have to buy the blend / mode door controls together for like $200 The actuator is only $45.
I suppose i could also have a problem with the mode door itself...

Here is hoping more people speak-up with ideas or findings.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 03:11 AM
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as I pay more attention to it all....seems the blend/output selector switch is very sensitive. just moving it a hair away from it's natural seat for whatever I select has an impact on the AC and or recirc lights and whether the blower stays running at whatever speed I select and where it directs the airflow of course(usually not what has been selected). $200 for that selector switch seems steep, maybe a wrecking yard has one. Knowing what each wire was and jumping a few to see if alll works as it should would be great, basically bypass the darn switch to tell if it's the sole problem, at least with mine. Weekend is near i'll check it then.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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Very similar issue has me confused

Originally Posted by projectSHO89
The blend door is used only for temperature control so it can be ruled out.

Assuming you have the electronic climate control, the mode doors that direct system airflow are operated by electrical motors under the control to the EATC. There are two doors: One directs air between the floor and the defrost, the other switches airflow to the panel or not.

There is a built-in self test that can be run to see if the EATC has self-diagnosed any faults. This is from the 04 manual, should be the same as the 05.



If you happen to get a DTC, I (or someone else) can look it up.

Steve
Thanks Steve for the awesome response. I have a very similar problem with the air not changing from the floor to the defrost but to add to the issue some mornings I can drive 20 miles before the air gets warm. There are no signs of a bad heater core or thermastat just now and then the heater doesn't get hot. I ran through your test procedures above and did not get any codes so it seems as if everything works. Are there any other tests I can do without ripping out the dash? Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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My truck is a 2005 F150 and has this problem also. Heat is fine but where it comes out is a different story. Off (straight up) works but put the switch anywhere else and the heat always comes out the dash vents and at the floor, NO defrost. Has anyone solved this problem yet? I need help, It's cold out and I can't see with these frosted up windows.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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no man, i haven't figured mine out yet.
I just left it on "floor" and I get a 50/50 floor and defrost right now, I suggest you put it in defrost or floor defrost till it magically goes there and stays there or till you can get it fixed.

I plan on swapping out my control module w/ a friends truck in the next month or so to see what happens, ill get back to everyone when i do.
 
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