Thank you for this forum. With the download of the process I will be changing the door, frame, heater core and electric door control motor tomorrow. Here a few tips picked up while picking up the parts.
(1) While at the dealer parts counter a mechanic volunteered that he recommends to change the electric control motor with the door and frame, even if it works, because it is made with limit switches that go bad and if they are bad the motor will over torque the new door and break it again. (Dealer item motor $60.00) (Dealer item Door & Frame $35.00)
(2) Where ever you get the heater core make sure it is a brass one and not aluminum. The aluminum corrodes away fast. ( Dealer $56.00 Car parts $45.00)
(3) Reline the heater core with foam sealing tape you can get at hardware that is used to seal windows. It cushions it and seals it. ( $4.00 )
(4) Before tearing into this engineering boondoggle , pull the heater control **** off the dash switch (The one with the BLUE and RED background) and look VERY CLOSE and make sure it is not CRACKED where it slides on the control. Boondoggle #2!!!! They only cost $4.00 and that might be your only problem. Good luck with your project.

 

1998 Expedition: When you get to the stage of lowering the steering colume, DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN PAST THE SEAT AT ANY TIME !!!! KEEP IT SUPPORTED WITH A BOX OR SOMTHING AT ALL TIMES !!!! If you don't, the shifting cable attached to the shifting lever will kink and the plastic sleeve will break and it cost $80.00. Guess how I know? To remove the heat duct just below the door motor and the floorboard I cut away the right side of the round flange on top that connects to the main plenum to remove the duct to have access to remove the motor and replace it. A piece of 3 in. duct tabe on that side after it was reinstalled worked great. I found no easy way to get that duct out. My truck was out of commision for three days. I dont have problems with my '50 Mercury like this. HAPPY MOTORING !!!!:santa: