Howdy Folks,

This is my first post in this area and I would like some enlightenment on what you guys would do.

The truck is 2004 Lariat SCREW with standard am/fm/single cd and speakers. if you were going to turn this truck into a rolling Bose noise canceling headphone what you install and/or modify to get this done. This includes speakers, preferably component, and placement.

In writing this I've just about decided to just buy the headphones, would be a lot cheaper and easier hehe

 

has anyone ever mounted a sub woofer on their ovehead rail system? good idea/bad idea?

 

A good start would be to replace the head unit with an aftermarket one, which comes down to whatever you like. While you're installing that you should get a 5 channel amp to install on the backwall, behind the seat. Pick up a set of component speakers for the front doors installed in the factory locations and get a set of high-end coaxials for the rear doors. For the sub I'd probably got with either an MTX thunderform or a JLStealthbox that fits under the rear seat in the stock location. That's just what I'd do to maximize sound quality while not giving up seating space.

 

Spent the last two days at the crutchfield site pricing and researching somewhat. It looks like I'll have to do this one or two components at a time due to budget constraints. I'm thinking of using the Polk Audio db5251 component spkrs in the front and doing the rear spkrs later.

I'm wondering if my factory hu will drive the spkrs or if the Clarion CX400 with 25W w/built in amp will be ok. I know not great but at least as good as factory sound?

If not, then I'm thinking of going with factory hu and spkr lvl amp for the time being and will have to wait on the sub.

If I go 5 channel amp and no sub will I be blowing any output transistors or whatever? If so is there a work around using 4ohm resistors?

Sorry for the long winded post

 

Sorry for the long winded reply.

I would only use Crutchfield to review what is available. I would never buy anything from them unless you like paying almost full retail. You can find the exact same items for a lot less elsewhere.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/

Does your truck have any type of steering wheel controls? If not then I would definitely replace the head unit.

5 channels are good but can get expensive. It would not hurt anything to run a 5 channel amp without it powering anything. Ohms is the based upon how you wire up the speakers. Normally subs are 4 ohm and less, everything else is normally 4.


Now for the rest it matters on your budget and how loud or clean you want it. It also depends on how you like your music to sound. Take a trip to a local car audio shop and listen to what they have. This will give you an idea on what you like. You might like your music on the warm side or cold and bright. Everyone has their own opinions, likes, and dislikes.

Something else is that this doesn't all have to be new. There are other car audio forums where you can find really nice used items for really good prices.


The following are basic builds. You could go all out and spend as much money as you want.


For a low budget build.
For the front speakers replace them with a good set of quality 6.5 components. I could recomment Morel, Hertz, Focal, Image Dynamics, Rainbow, JL if you wanted more high end. For more midrange prices there is Polk, MB Quarts, and others. Shop around.

For the rears just use the factory speakers and run then off the back channel of the head unit.

For a sub get a prebuilt box that is specific to your truck and holds a single 10in sub. As many others have stated on this forum stay away from Fox Boxes. Atrends and supercrews are good one. For the sub you will be limited to the depth of the box. JL and Image Dynamics are two that come to mind.

Now for amplification. If you decide to go with front components and sub then you can get a nice 4 channel amp for everything. Run the components off the front 2 channels and run the sub from the bridged back channels. If going this route get an 4 channel amp where the bridged rear power matches the sub and don't worry about overpowering the fronts. I say this because you can always turn the power down on the fronts but you want to make sure you have enough for the sub.

For a little more money
Fronts - 6.5 components
Rears - 6.5 coaxials
4 channel amp - 75 watt x4 at 4ohm and up
Sub - 2 10in or 12in shallows
sub amp - 750 watt at 2 ohm and up

If running a single sub then do with dual 4ohm voice coils. This lets you run the amp at 2ohm. If running 2 subs then get them with dual 2ohm voice coils. This again lets you run them at 2 ohm. You may read about 1 ohm but that takes an amp that is 1 ohm stable and that will cost more but you will get a LOT more power.

 

OR..... you could get a little higher end amplified HU like a Pioneer with a 50X4 or a Kenwood, or Alpine. Then put in your component's in the front with crossover and then get some nice coaxials for the back. Look for an 8" Bazooka tube for under the back seat. Run a mono amp on it or better yet, if you can find an already amped Bazooka EL8.... it would be even cheaper.
I have the system listed in my sig. It sounds fantastic without breaking the bank. I am also thinking about a 4 channel amp for the doors but right now it sounds great! No distortion and nice crisp highs and mids. I credit that to the Pioneer HU with completely adjustable EQ.
The Infinity and JL's that I have sound great with this setup!

 

Whew! lots of info guys. Langlowe, I do have steering wheel controls I seldom use but the main thing I like about factory h/units are the control layouts. It seems like aftermarket heads have to much info on the front panel with little buttons and even smaller print. Hard for me to see even in daylight.
But that aside, I did find a Clarion CX400 d/din head unit that seems to have a nice front panel layout (big buttons). The reviews at Crutchfield were favorable except for the display itself. Thinking about it.

Yesterday, I went to a local audio shop and had a pair of JL TR570CXi speakers installed. The speakers were on sale for $120. Put'em in the front doors to replace a bad d/side spkr. Figure I can put them in the rear doors later when I do get components for the front.

As for the sub, for now anyway, I was looking at the 6" or 8" Bazooka amplified tubes to get me started. I had a Bazooka in a single cab truck previously and it did a pretty good job for me. But does it fit under the seat far enough to be out of the way? I guess it could be laid on its side or does it need to be mounted upright for best performance? Probably a dumb question but haven't been able to see any pics of one installed in a super crew and nobody locally sells Bazooka, I don't think, so I can't actually look at one.

Anyway these are what I'm thinking about just to get me going with some better sounds on a limited budget.

Update: Took the plunge and ordered a Bazooka BTA8100 8" powered sub from Sonic Electronix.

'preciate the help

 

In your Screw there will be a wiring harness under the rear seat on the drivers side. You will find your trigger (switch) wire, and a power wire and a ground. You can tap into this harness right there and the plug will be in the dash. Personally, I would run a power wire from the battery (with inline fuse) to the tube. If you'd like, I can get a picture of my EL8 under the rear seat. It is laying sideways with the port off to the back side. This places my gain controls right at the seat bracket. Run your RCA's right up the center of the truck under the center console and plug them right into your new HU. Make sure you get a HU with sub input! This will let you control the sound from the unit itself.
As far as HU's.... go with a touch screen..... you won't be sorry. Easy to navigate and control. I am currently running all digital media with my Pioneer. It also had direct Ipod integration. I can control the Ipod directly from the screen or use the controls on the Ipod itself. I am not running any external amps on my door speakers currently. It still sounds great!
The JL's that you are looking at will sound awesome in the screw. If you are dead set on components you can always swap the JL's to the rear later. I will tell you this..... if you get an amplified HU and like to turn it up, the factory speakers will not last long. The magnets and drivers are not going to handle any kind of power before you blow them.