shift point
shift point
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
From: Houston, tx
wow... where did you get your stuff from, first of all?
Second, it depends. Are you hoping to get the absolute best 1/4 and 0-60 times possible with your truck? If you are not, I would consider leaving the stock shift points in place to keep the blower from spinning really high... If you leave the stock shift points in place instead of having it shift at 5400 (where it seems the tuners are going), your RPMs will drop enough that you won't be in your peak area any more. This means your ETs will suffer slightly. Maybe a tenth or two.
I left mine at stock shift points because I wanted it to be a little safer, but then my goal is the stoplight to stoplight dash where it is not as critical as the 1/4...
Second, it depends. Are you hoping to get the absolute best 1/4 and 0-60 times possible with your truck? If you are not, I would consider leaving the stock shift points in place to keep the blower from spinning really high... If you leave the stock shift points in place instead of having it shift at 5400 (where it seems the tuners are going), your RPMs will drop enough that you won't be in your peak area any more. This means your ETs will suffer slightly. Maybe a tenth or two.
I left mine at stock shift points because I wanted it to be a little safer, but then my goal is the stoplight to stoplight dash where it is not as critical as the 1/4...
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Midland, Texas
Ken800,
Thanks for the info. I decided to get the parts from RPM in Houston. The fella seemed pretty certain about what to put on the truck and had alot of insight to help me with the HD. I don't know maybe he's just a good salesman.
Anyway, the shift point is at 5300 which seems like it is just screaming! I just wanted to be safe.
I too do the red light to red light thing and I'm not much concerned with 1/4 mile ET's. I do plan to run the truck at the local track just to see.
What mods have you done?
Thanks for the info. I decided to get the parts from RPM in Houston. The fella seemed pretty certain about what to put on the truck and had alot of insight to help me with the HD. I don't know maybe he's just a good salesman.
Anyway, the shift point is at 5300 which seems like it is just screaming! I just wanted to be safe.
I too do the red light to red light thing and I'm not much concerned with 1/4 mile ET's. I do plan to run the truck at the local track just to see.
What mods have you done?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
From: Houston, tx
5250 is stock, so I assume you are at stock or 50 over. My first chip was set to shift at 5400 and talk about scream! I had them lower it back down to stock because I thought my truck was going to start time warping or something as the blower speed approached that of light...
Ken
6lb lower
ported TB and Plenum
superchip
factory tech valve body and deep pan
air force one (it's back on!)
oil capture kit
Ken
6lb lower
ported TB and Plenum
superchip
factory tech valve body and deep pan
air force one (it's back on!)
oil capture kit
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Midland, Texas
Trending Topics
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Ken
Since we have almost the same setup I thought I would ask you this question. Does your truck ever ping (detonate) at part throttle? I notice that when I am going 60mph (2000rpm) and accelerate, keeping the truck in overdrive I can hear the motor pinging. I don't hear anything at large throttle settings, but who would over the blower whine from the AF1. I did not notice the pinging the first few days, but it may have been there from the day the pulley was installed. Yes it does stop when I switch to position 1 on the chip, but I don't think I should have to be on position 1 using 92 octane. Thoughts. I have not tried a different brand of fuel yet. It has been cool here (60F) and we are 2000' ASL so I didn't expect this. Any idea how much the timing is retarded on #1, maybe it is richer too?
Since we have almost the same setup I thought I would ask you this question. Does your truck ever ping (detonate) at part throttle? I notice that when I am going 60mph (2000rpm) and accelerate, keeping the truck in overdrive I can hear the motor pinging. I don't hear anything at large throttle settings, but who would over the blower whine from the AF1. I did not notice the pinging the first few days, but it may have been there from the day the pulley was installed. Yes it does stop when I switch to position 1 on the chip, but I don't think I should have to be on position 1 using 92 octane. Thoughts. I have not tried a different brand of fuel yet. It has been cool here (60F) and we are 2000' ASL so I didn't expect this. Any idea how much the timing is retarded on #1, maybe it is richer too?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
From: Houston, tx
I wish I could, but I can't, so I won't.
Seriously, I work my butt off and have so little spare time that I can't. I have an infant son with a disability and what little spare time I have I spend relieving my wife... I hope one day he chills out a little and I can get back to hobbies and spare time and stuff. Seriously, I enjoy the chit out of learning and sharing what I have learned with everyone involved in F150Online, F150World, NLOC, HALO, etc...
Ken
Seriously, I work my butt off and have so little spare time that I can't. I have an infant son with a disability and what little spare time I have I spend relieving my wife... I hope one day he chills out a little and I can get back to hobbies and spare time and stuff. Seriously, I enjoy the chit out of learning and sharing what I have learned with everyone involved in F150Online, F150World, NLOC, HALO, etc...
Ken
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
From: Houston, tx
From my discussions with JDM, they back out a little timing and add a little fuel on 1 vs. 2. If the pinging is going away on one, I would leave it there until you can get to a dyno.
Go to a good exhaust shop and have them weld a bung up as close to the manifold as possible. (On both sides). Go to a shop that has a wideband 02 meter and do some dyno pulls to get your A/F readings. From what I have read, upper 11 are what you are looking for -- i.e. 11.7ish for a safe performance tune. The problem you are going to run into is that only an eddy current dyno can simulate a full load that represents the weight of your truck. If you tune your truck on an inertia dyno, you will not fully simulate loads and temperatures that you will experience at the track. You should shoot for very low 11s or even high 10s in that case as the actual A/F on the strip will be .3 to .8 higher. Backing up this observation is that many L guys have reported higher horsepower at the dyno and better track times on 1 vs. 2. I suspect that this would be because 1 is actually closer to the proper tune and 2 is actually too lean. Just my speculation, though.
That being said, tuning a chip is a lot more complex than you might think. There are many, many parameters that are completely intertwined and related to one another. Changing one value may affect literally dozens of others. At the end of the day, chip tuners are playing with timing and fuel delivery rates. There is no way that a mail order tune will ever perfectly match your engine's needs. There are also parameters that are not accesible.
Tuning on an eddy current is hard, however, because so few people have one. There are only two that I have been able to locate in Houston. One is at a private residence and the other is at a diesel mechanic. The closest is about 2.5 hours away.
An eddy current will let you tune partial throttle as well. At the end of the day, a really skilled tuner with the knowledge to tweak the parameters 90 ways to sunday, on an eddy current dyno, can get you a really good tune. Just remember that nothing the tuners do can outdo what the OEM programming does in terms of being perfectly matched for the specific boost level. The only way you will get that is if a Ford engineer rewrites the software for your mods and tests it/tweaks it until it is perfect. The tuners can't do that for a lot of reasons -- both economic, and that they don't have the source code to the factory program. So, we settle for close. If they were able to get access to the source code and really spend some time tweaking and measuring, the HP gains from the new chip along with the mods would be even better than it is as you would have perfect fuel management.
At the end of the day, I know I am running a risk of blowing my engine (albeit fairly low). But then, as they say, you gotta pay to play.
Ken
Go to a good exhaust shop and have them weld a bung up as close to the manifold as possible. (On both sides). Go to a shop that has a wideband 02 meter and do some dyno pulls to get your A/F readings. From what I have read, upper 11 are what you are looking for -- i.e. 11.7ish for a safe performance tune. The problem you are going to run into is that only an eddy current dyno can simulate a full load that represents the weight of your truck. If you tune your truck on an inertia dyno, you will not fully simulate loads and temperatures that you will experience at the track. You should shoot for very low 11s or even high 10s in that case as the actual A/F on the strip will be .3 to .8 higher. Backing up this observation is that many L guys have reported higher horsepower at the dyno and better track times on 1 vs. 2. I suspect that this would be because 1 is actually closer to the proper tune and 2 is actually too lean. Just my speculation, though.
That being said, tuning a chip is a lot more complex than you might think. There are many, many parameters that are completely intertwined and related to one another. Changing one value may affect literally dozens of others. At the end of the day, chip tuners are playing with timing and fuel delivery rates. There is no way that a mail order tune will ever perfectly match your engine's needs. There are also parameters that are not accesible.
Tuning on an eddy current is hard, however, because so few people have one. There are only two that I have been able to locate in Houston. One is at a private residence and the other is at a diesel mechanic. The closest is about 2.5 hours away.
An eddy current will let you tune partial throttle as well. At the end of the day, a really skilled tuner with the knowledge to tweak the parameters 90 ways to sunday, on an eddy current dyno, can get you a really good tune. Just remember that nothing the tuners do can outdo what the OEM programming does in terms of being perfectly matched for the specific boost level. The only way you will get that is if a Ford engineer rewrites the software for your mods and tests it/tweaks it until it is perfect. The tuners can't do that for a lot of reasons -- both economic, and that they don't have the source code to the factory program. So, we settle for close. If they were able to get access to the source code and really spend some time tweaking and measuring, the HP gains from the new chip along with the mods would be even better than it is as you would have perfect fuel management.
At the end of the day, I know I am running a risk of blowing my engine (albeit fairly low). But then, as they say, you gotta pay to play.
Ken
