Help newbie come up with mod strategy
Help newbie come up with mod strategy
Hi guys!
For over a month now I have been enjoying my new '02 Harley Davidson F150 and although I am (to knock in the wood) very happy
with it so far, something in me makes me want to change few things here and there about it. I am hoping to start doing these
mods in October timeframe. "Only" problem with that is that I know nothing zero nada zilch about trucks or aftermarket. That
is why I am turning now to these forums asking you guys to help me in this task with your knowledge, advices, guidance,
suggestions... Hopefully what comes out of this thread will be helpful to other newbies, not just to me.
Here is a brief description of my goal: Improve drive and performance of my '02 Harley Davidson F150 while not going over the
board with it. Identify mods I want done, best order to do them in, best product brands for them, best places to do them in
(don't have knowledge to do it myself), and get feeling how much that would approximately cost me.
Here is a quick list of things I have identified so far that I might want to do and some questions to get ball rolling:
1) Lower truck
99.99% I am driving my truck on Los Angeles freeways without any load in the back. Ride can be sometimes quite uncomfortable
when surface is bad (truck is shaking), and that is not good for my injured back. I have been told that shaking is due to
truck being light in the back when there is no load and that it should improve if I change stance of the truck. Is this
correct? If yes, I have been told that absolutely best way to do this is by putting "air bag suspension". Is this correct?
2) Anti-sway
I don't know anything about this. Please advise will it be of benefit on Harley, and what are pros/cons of it.
3) Change tires to different size
I am open to changing tires (and even rims if that is necessary to accommodate best choice of tires). Requirements I have in
mind for this part of task are:
a) They have to exceed safety requirements (maximum speed, load, road surface) after later performance improvements.
b) They have to improve my acceleration, breaking, and cornering.
c) They still need to give reasonable mileage out of them.
d) They need to take into account possible lowering and possible anti-sway.
Please advise how you would approach this.
4) Chip
I know chip is practically mandatory. But when chip should be put in? Immediately, before anything is started, or at a certain later point in time?
5) What else??? Please advise.
I am looking forward to your replies! Thank you in advance!
ZoranC
For over a month now I have been enjoying my new '02 Harley Davidson F150 and although I am (to knock in the wood) very happy
with it so far, something in me makes me want to change few things here and there about it. I am hoping to start doing these
mods in October timeframe. "Only" problem with that is that I know nothing zero nada zilch about trucks or aftermarket. That
is why I am turning now to these forums asking you guys to help me in this task with your knowledge, advices, guidance,
suggestions... Hopefully what comes out of this thread will be helpful to other newbies, not just to me.
Here is a brief description of my goal: Improve drive and performance of my '02 Harley Davidson F150 while not going over the
board with it. Identify mods I want done, best order to do them in, best product brands for them, best places to do them in
(don't have knowledge to do it myself), and get feeling how much that would approximately cost me.
Here is a quick list of things I have identified so far that I might want to do and some questions to get ball rolling:
1) Lower truck
99.99% I am driving my truck on Los Angeles freeways without any load in the back. Ride can be sometimes quite uncomfortable
when surface is bad (truck is shaking), and that is not good for my injured back. I have been told that shaking is due to
truck being light in the back when there is no load and that it should improve if I change stance of the truck. Is this
correct? If yes, I have been told that absolutely best way to do this is by putting "air bag suspension". Is this correct?
2) Anti-sway
I don't know anything about this. Please advise will it be of benefit on Harley, and what are pros/cons of it.
3) Change tires to different size
I am open to changing tires (and even rims if that is necessary to accommodate best choice of tires). Requirements I have in
mind for this part of task are:
a) They have to exceed safety requirements (maximum speed, load, road surface) after later performance improvements.
b) They have to improve my acceleration, breaking, and cornering.
c) They still need to give reasonable mileage out of them.
d) They need to take into account possible lowering and possible anti-sway.
Please advise how you would approach this.
4) Chip
I know chip is practically mandatory. But when chip should be put in? Immediately, before anything is started, or at a certain later point in time?
5) What else??? Please advise.
I am looking forward to your replies! Thank you in advance!
ZoranC
1. Lowering will make the truck drive better and depending on the suspension will make it feel the road better. That doesnt mean that it will ride smoother though. Ive lowered all my vechiles up to date and they all were different. I feel that lowering it will make you more uncomfortable if your backs hurting already.
Dont let the name fool you when they say air bags. That doesnt mean that they will ride softer. Most of them fit inside a set of springs and they are normally used to raise and lower the vehicles to the extant of the springs. Ive sold a bunch of different kinds to people and alot of my friends had them and they can have a tendency to have problems. I dont recommend them unless your doing show or towing a heavy load. Just get a full belltech kit or something of the sort. Much cheaper and less maintence for about the same results except you cant adjust em.
2. I do recommend the sway bars if your looking for better handling. It minimizes body roll and helps the truck hug the road better.
3. Are you kidding. Dont mess w/ the rims and tires. The factory tires are excellent. Remember, The larger the rim the less cushion and less space between the rim and tire. Bigger rims= more road feelings. Get some 16"s with huge tires and sell me your stocks if your gonna change em. But Dont.
4. do research on chip and mod combos. Alot of mods arent recommended without a chip and some dont matter. Id get your basic (non chip needing things) like intake, ignition, factory tech valve body, etc 1st. Then order all other mods that will be better with a chip and order chip custom programmed for them. Trust me, Ive already had my flip chip burnt twice. @ $200 each time its not the cheapest thing to keep doing.
5. Get a second job to help pay all the modding bills and watch out for cops. It seems like the more mods I put on the more tickets I get and more cops I become employed. 4 in 3 months!
P.S. Enjoy the truck for all its worth.
Dont let the name fool you when they say air bags. That doesnt mean that they will ride softer. Most of them fit inside a set of springs and they are normally used to raise and lower the vehicles to the extant of the springs. Ive sold a bunch of different kinds to people and alot of my friends had them and they can have a tendency to have problems. I dont recommend them unless your doing show or towing a heavy load. Just get a full belltech kit or something of the sort. Much cheaper and less maintence for about the same results except you cant adjust em.
2. I do recommend the sway bars if your looking for better handling. It minimizes body roll and helps the truck hug the road better.
3. Are you kidding. Dont mess w/ the rims and tires. The factory tires are excellent. Remember, The larger the rim the less cushion and less space between the rim and tire. Bigger rims= more road feelings. Get some 16"s with huge tires and sell me your stocks if your gonna change em. But Dont.
4. do research on chip and mod combos. Alot of mods arent recommended without a chip and some dont matter. Id get your basic (non chip needing things) like intake, ignition, factory tech valve body, etc 1st. Then order all other mods that will be better with a chip and order chip custom programmed for them. Trust me, Ive already had my flip chip burnt twice. @ $200 each time its not the cheapest thing to keep doing.
5. Get a second job to help pay all the modding bills and watch out for cops. It seems like the more mods I put on the more tickets I get and more cops I become employed. 4 in 3 months!
P.S. Enjoy the truck for all its worth.
Db682,
Thank you for your advise. I have some questions related to it:
1a) Can you please explain difference between "riding better" vs "riding smoother" vs "riding softer"? Will lowering it reduce shaking on freeway? Will I feel more bumps? Will it be more stable at high speeds? How you see it affecting my back?
1b) I am thinking leaving front as it is and lowering back 2" more than it already is so truck is leveled. What you think of that?
1c) I don't do shows. I will have a need, though, to put a load on it (that is one of reasons why I bought a truck), but I can not predict how heavy. I would like to keep load/towing specs as they are defined by factory while still lowering it as described under (1b), if that is possible. Is that possible at all?
2) Sway bars it will be then.
3a) I thought we have enough space to go with bigger tires without going with low profile, even after 2" lowering in back. Am I wrong?
3b) Will my existing tires be able to handle speed increases that will result from later performance modifications? Safety is a must for me.
3c) What about going with wider tires? What are pros/cons of that?
4) What ARE my basic mods? What goes under 'etc'? What are pros/cons of each one of them? Which ones are of benefit for '02 SuperCharged HF F150 and which ones are not worth it? I DID say I know absolutely nothing, didn't I?
5) I hear ya
Thank you one more time and looking forward to your reply!
ZoranC
Thank you for your advise. I have some questions related to it:
1a) Can you please explain difference between "riding better" vs "riding smoother" vs "riding softer"? Will lowering it reduce shaking on freeway? Will I feel more bumps? Will it be more stable at high speeds? How you see it affecting my back?
1b) I am thinking leaving front as it is and lowering back 2" more than it already is so truck is leveled. What you think of that?
1c) I don't do shows. I will have a need, though, to put a load on it (that is one of reasons why I bought a truck), but I can not predict how heavy. I would like to keep load/towing specs as they are defined by factory while still lowering it as described under (1b), if that is possible. Is that possible at all?
2) Sway bars it will be then.
3a) I thought we have enough space to go with bigger tires without going with low profile, even after 2" lowering in back. Am I wrong?
3b) Will my existing tires be able to handle speed increases that will result from later performance modifications? Safety is a must for me.
3c) What about going with wider tires? What are pros/cons of that?
4) What ARE my basic mods? What goes under 'etc'? What are pros/cons of each one of them? Which ones are of benefit for '02 SuperCharged HF F150 and which ones are not worth it? I DID say I know absolutely nothing, didn't I?
5) I hear ya

Thank you one more time and looking forward to your reply!
ZoranC
Something that will improve the ride quite a bit, would be a four link rear airbag suspension. They are pricey, but they actually increase the load capacity in the back, while greatly improving ride. They completely do away with the rear leaf springs altogether. Most of the luxury cars of the last 30 years or so have some form of four link suspension on the rear. They wouldn't use it if it didn't work
Look in your local phone book, and you should be able to find a dealer that handles them.,,,,,98
Look in your local phone book, and you should be able to find a dealer that handles them.,,,,,98
98SCREAMER,
Appreciate the advise. Will 4 link rear airbag address all issues I am concerned about as mentioned in 1a, 1b, and 1c? Also, do they suffer from same or similar issues Db982 mentioned, or they are something completely different?
Thanks again!
ZoranC
Appreciate the advise. Will 4 link rear airbag address all issues I am concerned about as mentioned in 1a, 1b, and 1c? Also, do they suffer from same or similar issues Db982 mentioned, or they are something completely different?
Thanks again!
ZoranC
I've just spent an hour or more trying to find info on four links, and found literally nothing but text articles trashing AIM suspension components.
Maybe you should do a standard lowering job on it, and forget the 4 links. Hate to say it, though. Bags are tempermental and need repairs sometimes(for leaks) You could try some adjustable shocks and set them lower to keep the ride decent. A sway bar is still a great idea, too. It was frustrating tryin to wade through all the BS on many sites. No one seemed to have clear solution other than their hatred for AIM industries. Sorry, I tried,,,,98
Maybe you should do a standard lowering job on it, and forget the 4 links. Hate to say it, though. Bags are tempermental and need repairs sometimes(for leaks) You could try some adjustable shocks and set them lower to keep the ride decent. A sway bar is still a great idea, too. It was frustrating tryin to wade through all the BS on many sites. No one seemed to have clear solution other than their hatred for AIM industries. Sorry, I tried,,,,98
98,
One BIG THANK YOU! I was glad to see your post, no matter what it says, because it is very nice when senior member invests an effort to mentor junior one.
So, AIM Industries is off? Oh well... I assume they are the manufacturer of those airbags you mentioned, correct?
In that case what you think of Edelbrock IAS units that Mike Troyer to me recommended in chip forum (I see you joined that discussion too)?
Thanks again!
ZoranC
One BIG THANK YOU! I was glad to see your post, no matter what it says, because it is very nice when senior member invests an effort to mentor junior one.
So, AIM Industries is off? Oh well... I assume they are the manufacturer of those airbags you mentioned, correct?
In that case what you think of Edelbrock IAS units that Mike Troyer to me recommended in chip forum (I see you joined that discussion too)?
Thanks again!
ZoranC
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1a. Riding better, to me, means better handling and performance value. It also means stiffer components.=stiffer ride=feels more road(bumps)
Smoother and softer are about the same thing. Softer shocks and springs means the trucks suspension absorbs most of the road feel.
Youll probably want to go ahead with a softer set of shocks. Or adjustable shocks.
1b. Do it. Lowering the rear wont have much of an effect on the cab of the truck. It also looks alot nicer.
1c. The only problem here is that if you get softer shocks and lower the rear then your truck will drive like a Honda civic pulling a house. Most trucks that pull heavy loads end up having to upgrade there suspension for the weight Difference. The factory rating wont stand if you change shocks. Youll have to go off the manufacturers ratings for the shocks. Drop Shakles on the rear alone wont have any real negative effects on towing except to much weight and youll be rubbing tires.
2. Cool youll be happy.
3a. You have enough space right now to change tires but if you lower it and change shocks youll definitly rub with full height tires. Most companys only make Low profile tires for 20" and bigger unless your talking semi tires. The factory tires are low profile. Besides full height 20" tires are ugly as hell. They look like Hummer tires.
3b. The factory tires are excellent tires they can handle just about any speeds you can make the truck produce. If your talking Drag radials then they dont compare. those are 2 completly different types of tires. I love the Factory tires.
3c. Wider tires. Pros. Protects edge of rims better. more traction surface for high speed driving. Thats about it. Cons. Shorter turning radius because they will rub when turning. Tires wider then the rims have a shorter life. Cost more money.
4. This is a section that could go on forever. Some basic mods would consist of a Intake and filter, Ignition upgrade, Valve body(especilly if towing)and Electric fans. Thats all Id recommend without a chip. They are all great mods and worth every dollar spent. The only thing Id say stay away from is throttle body spacer. A.K.A. paper weight. Once you get chipped then the skys the limit. or your wallet. Id look at the Lightning rooms for more details on engine mods for your engine. Its the same as the lightning.
Good Luck and may the force be with you.
Smoother and softer are about the same thing. Softer shocks and springs means the trucks suspension absorbs most of the road feel.
Youll probably want to go ahead with a softer set of shocks. Or adjustable shocks.
1b. Do it. Lowering the rear wont have much of an effect on the cab of the truck. It also looks alot nicer.
1c. The only problem here is that if you get softer shocks and lower the rear then your truck will drive like a Honda civic pulling a house. Most trucks that pull heavy loads end up having to upgrade there suspension for the weight Difference. The factory rating wont stand if you change shocks. Youll have to go off the manufacturers ratings for the shocks. Drop Shakles on the rear alone wont have any real negative effects on towing except to much weight and youll be rubbing tires.
2. Cool youll be happy.
3a. You have enough space right now to change tires but if you lower it and change shocks youll definitly rub with full height tires. Most companys only make Low profile tires for 20" and bigger unless your talking semi tires. The factory tires are low profile. Besides full height 20" tires are ugly as hell. They look like Hummer tires.
3b. The factory tires are excellent tires they can handle just about any speeds you can make the truck produce. If your talking Drag radials then they dont compare. those are 2 completly different types of tires. I love the Factory tires.
3c. Wider tires. Pros. Protects edge of rims better. more traction surface for high speed driving. Thats about it. Cons. Shorter turning radius because they will rub when turning. Tires wider then the rims have a shorter life. Cost more money.
4. This is a section that could go on forever. Some basic mods would consist of a Intake and filter, Ignition upgrade, Valve body(especilly if towing)and Electric fans. Thats all Id recommend without a chip. They are all great mods and worth every dollar spent. The only thing Id say stay away from is throttle body spacer. A.K.A. paper weight. Once you get chipped then the skys the limit. or your wallet. Id look at the Lightning rooms for more details on engine mods for your engine. Its the same as the lightning.
Good Luck and may the force be with you.
Db682,
Thanks again for your help
I enjoy learning.
Due to it here are more questions:
1a. What are the pros/cons of adjustable shocks? If I have them on how long it takes to switch them from minimum to maximum and what is involved? In other words, can I do it alone in parking lot in several minutes with simple tool?
1c. What is the best way to upgrade suspension so I can have best of both worlds (lowering and softer ride while not rubbing tires at all and pulling like truck, not a Civic)? Is answer in adjustable shocks? Or as I heard adding another "layer" on suspension (what is the righ term for this? English is not my first language)? Or both at same time? Or something else?
3a,b,c. Will I have enough space with existing tires if I both lower it and put softer shocks? If yes then I will do what everyone tells me to do and leave tires and rims alone. Considering they are rated for 149mph once I get a chip I will set speed limiter to 149mph to be within security rating.
4. What are, if you happen to know, estimated HP/torque gains from air intake & filter, exhaust change, ignition upgrade, valve body, and electric fans?
Overall strategy wise my order of execution might depend on what I can do without affecting my warranty in front of Ford or, if that is not possible, affecting it in areas that will not hurt me much. Dealer that sold me truck does not have problem with lowering and suspension changes but chokes when one mentions chip or anything else. Guy I sometimes talk with told me he might be able to be put me in touch with different dealer that might be more open minded.
Thank you again! I am looking forward to your reply!
Thanks again for your help
I enjoy learning.Due to it here are more questions:
1a. What are the pros/cons of adjustable shocks? If I have them on how long it takes to switch them from minimum to maximum and what is involved? In other words, can I do it alone in parking lot in several minutes with simple tool?
1c. What is the best way to upgrade suspension so I can have best of both worlds (lowering and softer ride while not rubbing tires at all and pulling like truck, not a Civic)? Is answer in adjustable shocks? Or as I heard adding another "layer" on suspension (what is the righ term for this? English is not my first language)? Or both at same time? Or something else?
3a,b,c. Will I have enough space with existing tires if I both lower it and put softer shocks? If yes then I will do what everyone tells me to do and leave tires and rims alone. Considering they are rated for 149mph once I get a chip I will set speed limiter to 149mph to be within security rating.
4. What are, if you happen to know, estimated HP/torque gains from air intake & filter, exhaust change, ignition upgrade, valve body, and electric fans?
Overall strategy wise my order of execution might depend on what I can do without affecting my warranty in front of Ford or, if that is not possible, affecting it in areas that will not hurt me much. Dealer that sold me truck does not have problem with lowering and suspension changes but chokes when one mentions chip or anything else. Guy I sometimes talk with told me he might be able to be put me in touch with different dealer that might be more open minded.
Thank you again! I am looking forward to your reply!
1. Dont let the name fool you. They are not that easy to adjust. It requires you to raise the vehicle to set the new limits. They are great if you have the time to do that. Thats the only con i can think of. The pros would be the ability to change the ride feelings whenever need be. To suit your needs.
1c. Thats a toughy. Its not easy to get the best of both worlds. Youd most likely need larger leaf springs if tooting a very heavy load, but that will give you a harder ride. They make air shocks that are used for towing and loads but those dont normally allow you to lower the vehicle. Most often you have to raise it. Just get drop shakles and a good set of shocks. TOXICSHOCKS are pretty good for a slight lowering and ride balance.
3abc. Youll have plenty if you dont get bigger tires and plan on loading the bed full of bags of concrete. KEEP THE STOCK RIM AND TIRE HEIGHT.
4. They differ greatly. Anything Performance wise will have a HP rating on it (estimated of course). You can go to the tech. area of this site and they have some info. Ill try to get you some links later, but Ive got to haul *** for work.
1c. Thats a toughy. Its not easy to get the best of both worlds. Youd most likely need larger leaf springs if tooting a very heavy load, but that will give you a harder ride. They make air shocks that are used for towing and loads but those dont normally allow you to lower the vehicle. Most often you have to raise it. Just get drop shakles and a good set of shocks. TOXICSHOCKS are pretty good for a slight lowering and ride balance.
3abc. Youll have plenty if you dont get bigger tires and plan on loading the bed full of bags of concrete. KEEP THE STOCK RIM AND TIRE HEIGHT.
4. They differ greatly. Anything Performance wise will have a HP rating on it (estimated of course). You can go to the tech. area of this site and they have some info. Ill try to get you some links later, but Ive got to haul *** for work.
1a. If I have to raise vehicle then adjustable shocks are out. I don't have easy access to place where I would be able to do it, plus my errands tend to be unpredictable.
1c #0. If I don't lower it I will I be stable enough on freeway at higher speeds? Or I must lower it for that?
1c #1. Let me try to summarize this: If I lower it I will hug road better, but I will not be able to carry much no matter which way I lower it (even with shakles). If I want to lower it AND carry as much as before I need to strengthen up suspension (by adding extra leaf or whatever) which will stiffen up the ride and put me right back where I started (my back not liking the ride on bad surface). Am I correct? Or I misunderstood you and it IS possible to improve ride compared to stock one through great shocks, even if truck is lowered, suspension is firmed up, and sway bar is added?
1c #2. What are your thoughts on Edelbrock IAS Shocks Mike T. of Superchip fame recommends?
2. Sway bar: Mike T. says sway bar will firm up a ride, which might annoy my back, and that I should think twice before adding it. What are your thoughts on this?
3abc. I will leave stock tires and rims.
4. I am looking forward to the links.
Thank you again!
ZoranC
1c #0. If I don't lower it I will I be stable enough on freeway at higher speeds? Or I must lower it for that?
1c #1. Let me try to summarize this: If I lower it I will hug road better, but I will not be able to carry much no matter which way I lower it (even with shakles). If I want to lower it AND carry as much as before I need to strengthen up suspension (by adding extra leaf or whatever) which will stiffen up the ride and put me right back where I started (my back not liking the ride on bad surface). Am I correct? Or I misunderstood you and it IS possible to improve ride compared to stock one through great shocks, even if truck is lowered, suspension is firmed up, and sway bar is added?
1c #2. What are your thoughts on Edelbrock IAS Shocks Mike T. of Superchip fame recommends?
2. Sway bar: Mike T. says sway bar will firm up a ride, which might annoy my back, and that I should think twice before adding it. What are your thoughts on this?
3abc. I will leave stock tires and rims.
4. I am looking forward to the links.
Thank you again!
ZoranC
Man, you sure ask alot of questions. Perhaps you should look into trading in for a taurus or something a little gentlier. J/K...
1c. The truck is extremly stable. Its not a explorer. Unless your freeways are circular dirt tracks then I think youll be fine.
1c. Now your confusing me. Lowering , Suspension, and sway bar will improve trucks handling greatly, at the sacraficing of a smoother ride. Have you ever seen a race car that didnt look like it felt every bump in the road? I think not. Look. RAISING LOAD CAPACITY = FIRMER RIDE. lOWERING TRUCK = FIRMER BUMPIER RIDE. STOCK = BALANCE. SHOCKS ARE MADE FOR DIFFERENT CONDITIONS, SOFT TO HARD. SWAY BARS REDUCES BODY ROLL. KEEP IT STOCK AND ADD DROP SHAKLES. WHAT DO YOU PLAN ON HAULING? IF ITS A DIRT BIKE OR JET SKI TRAILER OR SOMETHING OF THAT NATURE YOUR FINE. IF ITS A TRAILER FULL OF PONIES AND A OVERWEIGHT CLOWN NAMED BARNEY, WELL YOUR SCREWED.
1c. IAS are good. Not best but very good. Like i said before it all depends on what type of use you plan on giving them.
2. Sway bar might firm ride a small amount but its main function is to reduce body roll. If you talking Autobahn speeds on the highway then you need it. If some @sshole cuts out in front of you and you swerve to avoid him ineritia takes effect. Sway bar helps to keep the body over the wheels and reduce the pitch at which your truck will lean on tight turns or passes. If the truck is moving that fast and you turn far enough to cause ineritia to pull the truck forward more then in the direction of the wheels then you will be tumbling. Hope youve got your seat belt on.
3,4. Good glad I cleared those up. Ill see what I can do for links. CHECK PRODUCT DIRECTORY ON THIS SITE!!!
Your Welcome.
1c. The truck is extremly stable. Its not a explorer. Unless your freeways are circular dirt tracks then I think youll be fine.
1c. Now your confusing me. Lowering , Suspension, and sway bar will improve trucks handling greatly, at the sacraficing of a smoother ride. Have you ever seen a race car that didnt look like it felt every bump in the road? I think not. Look. RAISING LOAD CAPACITY = FIRMER RIDE. lOWERING TRUCK = FIRMER BUMPIER RIDE. STOCK = BALANCE. SHOCKS ARE MADE FOR DIFFERENT CONDITIONS, SOFT TO HARD. SWAY BARS REDUCES BODY ROLL. KEEP IT STOCK AND ADD DROP SHAKLES. WHAT DO YOU PLAN ON HAULING? IF ITS A DIRT BIKE OR JET SKI TRAILER OR SOMETHING OF THAT NATURE YOUR FINE. IF ITS A TRAILER FULL OF PONIES AND A OVERWEIGHT CLOWN NAMED BARNEY, WELL YOUR SCREWED.
1c. IAS are good. Not best but very good. Like i said before it all depends on what type of use you plan on giving them.
2. Sway bar might firm ride a small amount but its main function is to reduce body roll. If you talking Autobahn speeds on the highway then you need it. If some @sshole cuts out in front of you and you swerve to avoid him ineritia takes effect. Sway bar helps to keep the body over the wheels and reduce the pitch at which your truck will lean on tight turns or passes. If the truck is moving that fast and you turn far enough to cause ineritia to pull the truck forward more then in the direction of the wheels then you will be tumbling. Hope youve got your seat belt on.
3,4. Good glad I cleared those up. Ill see what I can do for links. CHECK PRODUCT DIRECTORY ON THIS SITE!!!
Your Welcome.
Koni has just come out with an adjustable shock. From what it shows in the ads, you just twist the larger end of the shock, no tools involved. Manufacturers have been trying to improve the balance between handling and ride for years! Too soft and the reviewers complain about the handling, too stiff and they complain about the ride. You can't have both, but adjustable shocks are as close as you can get, really.,,,,98
That was really a pain in the butt to read...I'm tired now from reading all of that.
This is what I say you do...
1. (All at the same time) --- 4lb lower pulley, Diablo or Superchip (Custom tuned on dyno if possible), Intake (Air Force One, K & N)
2. New Shocks (Edelbrock or Bell Tech)
3. Rear Sway Bar (All the tuners sell them)
4. If you do get really mushy shocks...you might want to lower also to balance body roll that will result
There...I made it easy...now ask no more questions and do what i said and you will have a fast truck that will make you happy
This is what I say you do...
1. (All at the same time) --- 4lb lower pulley, Diablo or Superchip (Custom tuned on dyno if possible), Intake (Air Force One, K & N)
2. New Shocks (Edelbrock or Bell Tech)
3. Rear Sway Bar (All the tuners sell them)
4. If you do get really mushy shocks...you might want to lower also to balance body roll that will result
There...I made it easy...now ask no more questions and do what i said and you will have a fast truck that will make you happy


