My advice on running the carbs dry is to do it at idle or "clutch speed" in boating parlance. Some people, in a rush, will run the idle up to get rid of the gas faster. Not good. Also not good is to run out of fuel while you're firewalling it. At any rate, you definitely don't want to run out of fuel above idle. At least don't make a practice of it.

BTW, don't shut the engine off right after high speed runs. Let the engine idle for 2 or 3 minutes so it can cool down properly.

Oh yeah. I forgot one important thing. Change the impeller. On outboards, if you lose your impeller (water pump), you either paddle or get towed home since it's located inside the leg and requires the unbolting and dropping of the lower gear housing.

Don't recall how often you should change it, but I'd say if the previous owner didn't change it in the last year or two, that would be my first item on the preventative maintenance list. Some people are fanatical about it and change them yearly. For casual users, I'd say every 2 years should be fine. This is one of those parts that you want to change before it shows any wear (cracking).

While you're at it, check the sacrificial anodes. Might be time for new ones. I know for saltwater use, they're made out of zinc. Not sure if it's the same for fresh water. I know you can get magnesium anodes, but was never sure what the application was.

Does this model outboard have sheer pins or rubber prop hubs? Don't know much about outboards, but I know old ones had sheer pins and it was always a good idea to carry a couple of extras. If it's got a rubber hub, might be a good idea to invest in a spare prop and tools. Yeah, you should take along a basic tool kit to do minor repairs.

When you start it, make sure it's peeing. If it isn't, you got impeller problems.

One more thing while I'm at it. WD-40 is good stuff, but on boats, Corrosion Block is superior. Since you're in fresh water, it's not so important.

Hope you got VHF and if it's used in your area, CB. The VHF moreso if you're going to be on navigable waters with large vessels. Depending on the area you'll be boating in, a hand held might suffice. Don't forget to make sure your flares haven't expired too. Cell phones are quickly becomming something you don't want to leave home without.

No idea if you need any of the above for where you're boating. Check around and see what you'll need for your area.

Of course, PFDs (personal floatation device) for everyone and if there are kids, they gotta be properly sized for their weight.

Okay, I'm probably obsessing here. I only do deep sea fishing and have gone 75 to 150 miles out into the deep blue, so safety has always been a big thing with me. I won't even go out on friends' boats if they don't have the basics. Been on the water for over 40 years and have been caught in 15 footers. Ever been hit in the face by a wave while sitting on the flying bridge of a 35' Bertram? Been there. Done that. Bought the T-shirt & new underwear for the crew.

 

I almost forgot to mention the "two-fer" rule. Every 2 years you will want to get a boat thats 2 feet longer! Needless to say, my wife hates this rule!

 

Welcome to the painstaking world of never ending updates, repair work, and maintenance.

Boat = Hole in the water in which you pour money.

Here's my babies:

1987 Grady White Offshore 24 behind my Ferd.



I've also started an online boaters' community. It's mainly geared towards Grady White owners, but all boaters are welcome.

Classifieds, message boards, picture gallery, and more...

www.GradyWhiteOnline.com

 

Hobbit, thanks for the link. I'll be checking it out asap.

Dennis, as far as the impeller goes, the previous owner informed me that he changed it last year in the fall, and he only used the boat 3 times this year, so shouldn't have to change it till the end of next year. I'll probably check it just to make sure. I figured as much about letting it run out of gas, that there would be enough lubrication in the cylinder already.

What are the sacrificial anodes? Where are they and how do I check them? Is this part of the ignition coils?

Also, how do I know if it has sheer pins or rubber prop hubs?

I always carry a cell phone, and where I'm boating there is good reception, and there are other boaters around, so there shouldn't be a problem getting help if I need it. (Knock on wood).

Thanks for all the advice!

Here is a pic of the boat:

 

If the exhaust is through the center of the prop hub, then it's got a rubber hub. If the exhaust is above the prop and the prop has a nose cone, then it's got a shear pin.

In your case, it looks like you have a thru-hub exhaust, so you got a rubber hub.

Impeller should be fine for another season or two. If you're going through the trouble of inspecting it, you may as well replace it since it's a bit involved.

Sacrificial anodes are found in a myriad of places depending on make and year. If you had a Mercruiser, Volvo, or OMC outdrive, I'd be able to tell you. Outboards? I'm at a loss. If you want to look for it yourself, it's usually a grey (when new) bare metal. It would be zinc or magnesium and gets more and more pitted the longer the eingine is in the water. Sometimes, they're attached to the mounting bracket. Sometimes, close to the prop. Sometimes, it's attached to the hull of the boat and it's bonded by a wire to the engine's ground.

Good luck and have fun with your new boat. Looks to be around 16 or 18'.

BTW, do you know how to back a trailer? If not, you better practice away from the ramp 'cause I've seen some people get really nasty when a newbie is having trouble. Instead of helping, some people just start yelling, making the newbie even more nervous. Just remember this one simple rule. Turn the bottom of the wheel towards the side you want the trailer to go. If you can lower your tailgate without dinging it on the hitch, it might make backing the trailer easier for you.

OH!!! I'll leave you with one final bit of advice. Make sure the plug's in before you launch...

 

Yes, bring a spare prop and tools. Also, keep oil, hydro fluid, extra belts (I/O or inboards) basic sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, pliers, knives & sharpeners, electrical tape and dykes, and don't forget....nylon zip ties!!!! I had a blanket kick off the bottom once and wrap itself around the prop. Luckily, I was in 4 ft of water at the time. Took 40 minutes to cut it loose. Another time, I was 6 miles out after fishing, on my way back in, and blew my prop hub. Couldn't go over 5 knots. Took 4-1/2 hours to get back to ramp. If I would have had a spare prop in both cases, I would have been fine. When you get your spare prop, you may need new cotter pins as well. They only bend so many times before they snap. I have seen flouresent floating prop wrenches also. Neat idea. Ever try to tread water and change a prop? It's not the easiest thing in the world. Anyway, just make sure you have plenty of spare parts...depending how far or long you go out. Also, figure out how much fuel you burn in a certain distance. Make sure you plan for it before you get out there and ...... crank, crank, crank ,crank....uh oh....no gas. You can never be prepared for all mishaps or problems, but you can try. Good luck.

 

You'll find it a lot easier to change a prop while in the water if you put your PFD on and you have a safety line.

If you have an inboard, it would be difficult to wear a PFD to change or clear props. In that case, you should at least toss out a line off the stern. A 100' line would be great. Secure one end to the boat and a floatation device on the other.

 

Dennis,

The exhaust goes through the middle of the motor, on the back, so I'm assuming I have a shear pin. The boat is only a 14'.

I already forgot to put the plug in, the first time we launched it. Didn't realize till the back end of the boat was full of water. Good thing the trailer was still there to pull the boat up. Didn't submerge enough to wet the battery or motor though.

Don't have much experience backing up with a trailer, but I'm definitely getting better at it!

When we bought the boat it came with a spare prop, so I make sure to bring that with me, and all of the appropriate tools.

Thanks guys!

 

Well as far as the plug goes, you got a lot of company. I know seasoned boaters who get distracted and forget the plug. Usually, they don't notice it until somebody starts to wonder why the bilge pump keeps pumping water. DOH!!!!!!!!!!

People I boat with all make it a point to check the plug. On larger boats, it requires a wrench to install the plug from outside so at some point, every person going out checks it and says, "Plug's in!" Not unusual to hear that 3 or 4 times.

You sure you don't have a thru-hub exhaust? What does the spare prop look like? Is it solid with a hole for the shaft and a hole thru the end for the shear pin? Hard to tell with the picture you have posted, but it sure looked like a thru-hub exhaust. You can tell it's a thru-hub prop because not only is the shaft hole splined, but the hub has a space around it for the exhaust to pass through.

Anyway, have fun with the boat. What are you going to be doing? Fishing? What kind of fish?

 

One other thing... always use TCW 3 outboard oil... do not settle for anything less, even though your motor was designed for TCW 2 or maybe even 1. TCW 3 is so much better... cleaner burning, less fouling, does a good job of stabilizing the gas, and less smoking.

PS: Looks like a thru the hub exhaust system to me... all Johnson and Evinrudes above 10 HP or so are made that way. The exhaust fills the void immediately behind the prop to reduce drag.

 

BEAST:

That's true about the exhaust; mine's a 60 rude from 1985. I'm not sure that the older one's are the same tho, just a thought.

 

I don’t know about the exhaust thing. There is 2 slots on the back of the motor that looks like exhaust comes through there. I know that when we are cruising, water is spitting out of the slots. I thought that the exhaust was spit out with the cooling water, after it had gone through the motor.

I’ll have to have a look at the spare prop this weekend. We plan on doing a little fishing with it, mostly for Bass, Perch/Pickerel, etc. We also have a tube that we’ll be using with it, next year when the water is warmer.

 

Ah, that's the best! The season is coming to an end, so get it in while you can, and let us know what you catch. Tubing is a total blast, my family and I did a ton of that this summer and had so much fun. I can hardly wait for next year when we can all go back out and do it again. Have fun man......

 

Most all outboards I've seen have two places where exhaust comes out. One is below the water line and the other is above. When idling, in neutral, the exhaust is above water because there's less resistance that way. When running fast, exhaust is below the water where the movement of the water past the leg helps scavenge the exhaust while doing so with less noise than if it were to come out above the water. It also helps stop exhaust gasses from coming back into the boat since most of it bubbles up from the water way behind the boat.

OH YEAH! I forgot. Haven't had a boat with dog clutches in ages. I get kind of spoiled by cone clutches and hydraulic trannies. When you shift in and out of gear, don't dilly dally. The quicker you shift the better for the clutch. If you take your time shifting, the clutch will grind and wear out or break.

Good luck fishing and make sure you take the cellphone so you can either call the wife to take out the chicken or make reservations for dinner... After all, that's why it's called fishing instead of catching!

 

Dennis,

I'll have to check on the exhaust thing.

How do I know if I have dog clutches? I doesn't seem like I could take a long time to shift if I wanted to. Push or pull the shifter/throttle, and it clicks into gear. Are the clutches engaged the whole time the shifter/throttle is out of neutral but not in gear? If that's the case, thanks for the advice! If not, could you please explain?

We've been out fishing twice this past week, and haven't caught anything. Hopefully next weekend will be better.

Pretty anxious to try tubing!!