I paid to have my long tube headers installed with locking bolts that I bought, that were $6 a piece, and 15 of them made it onto the truck, but one must have sprouted legs walked away . . .



I could be wrong, but that looks like a stock stud and nut to me! Pissed that I somehow missed that when I checked the bolts the first time, but glad I went over it thoroughly today. I think I'm gonna shell out the $11 to get a replacement one, I can't stand having "janky" stuff like that on my truck.

 

Don't touch it lol. It was most likely used because the bolts you purchased are much shorter; making it's very easy to strip the first 4 threads.

You can use the factory studs only in a few places on the heads w/LT's because they are so long and otherwise, impossible. The factory studs are much better because they are a grade of stainless and they sink so much further into the thread bore and won't strip it out very easily.

You should always chase the threads because aluminum shavings can easily imbed between threads.

You should always clean the thread bores, and make sure the new bolts thread in tightly.

Those steps get skipped in a shop because it takes more time.

You can replace that 12/13mm nut w/stainless one. Those corrode first and promote more corrosion.

So, the safest thing to do is not touch it and always keep in mind, headers are to be torqued from the center out.

 

Yea, the shop/mechanic probably didn't give your bolt back for a few reasons. It loaded up w/aluminum, - can be a pita to clean, - even w/bench mounted wire wheel lol. Or the bolt was damaged....Could of just slipped his mind returning it to you.... Or, it may have fallen and bounced down the drain grate in the floor lol. But, I bet it was swapped for better torque power.

Lucky it doesn't leak w/gaskets that were used. I've never had one leak, using header gaskets.

 

I'm having a hard time understanding what you mean Brew. Why would they only use a stock stud in that one hole? If it was possible to damage the threads in that hole, wouldn't the same apply to the other 15?

IIRC, the bolts and studs were very close to the same length (with how much entered the head) and the bolts are 304 or 409 stainless and the most expensive ones you can get. Also, people have used all factory studs on the set of long tubes that I have. And I'm not even sure where they got that stud and nut from because I had removed all of the factory exhaust pieces, and all the studs are in my garage . . .

And both banks leak like an absolute sumbitch, and have from the moment I got it back. That's why I've checked the bolts twice, some didn't have the set screws locked when I got it back. I've had it looked at by our exhaust guy at my dealership, and he said it's bang-bang on whether or not they're leaking, and if they are it's minor. So I've left them alone, but I'm pretty confident that they're leaking pretty badly. The ticking bounces off walls and cars in the parking garage and when traveling on city streets or on-ramps for the highway. And if they aren't leaking that badly, then my cam phaser tick has become horrendous at only 88k.

 

It could have with an amateur at the wrench. Yea, header bolts are shorter, check again and usually come with specific head designs. Didn't you say somewhere, YOU stripped a few before throwing it in? Thought I read that some-wheres. lol (?)

As I've posted above check them again, I'd have to see it to believe since I never have. Also, I may have misspoke earlier, a half truth if you will. I did say YOU CAN use factory studs, just not at certain locations. See how #6 is pushed down to make way for #5 in this photo, -



Well, there's no way a factory stud will fit the #6 bottom port. So bolts are made all the same size correct ? Made in correlation to #6. You see what I'm saying? There's is more areas than I first thought that will accept the factory stud, but not all with LT's

That type of exhaust leak can mimic all kinds of things, even sound like metal banging against something, - NOT kidding, it can easily fool yuh. I 'm surprised you don't have DTC's , - Efficiency and EGR DTC'S. You will when it gets colder. You have to use material gaskets, - header gaskets. The metal paired or trips will most likely fail. With header gaskets, Permatex Gold should be used on both sides/with copper. For a perfect tight form fit and they won't leak ever lol. Unless you take them off and re-install the same ones.

Now you tell me

 

I stripped the very end of 2 studs during removal, like the 5mm head, but no threads. The Percy header bolts all twisted in like silky butter when I tested those out.

The guy who's how-to I followed re-used all of the stock studs and nuts without issue. My OBX headers' primaries come out and don't twist in that manner, they are not equal length tubing primaries. That is part of what makes them much simpler to install, and cheaper. Dynatechs probably look closer to the headers you posted and would not accept factory studs.

What are material gaskets? I used new OEM Ford ones. Also, my truck does not have an EGR (to my knowledge). I don't think any of the 04-08 5.4s do. I may buy new gaskets and use permatex on them.

Thank you for everything too! I hope nothing I have said sounds smart-allicky

 

headers are a pita. Needs the locking bolts and thick gaskets that don't burn when the bolts loosen up.

 

If it's factory/US, you do. You have an all in one. A EGR/DPFE/EVR . They poured glue all over them and wadded them up into a ball/compacting them in order to save space. You can delete these systems and custom tune, but there's really no advantage anymore, since they've compacted it.

 

I hit them in stages, - locking or not. After 3 Drive cycles of doing that, the fourth should keep T value.

Yea I hear yuh. There's one monster blind spot doing the 97-03's; on the passenger side (if your AC is intact).

 

Are you sure? I'm still pretty darn positive that only 03 and back (2V) 5.4s have those. VCT took care of the need for an EGR on the 5.4. 4.6 and 4.2s have them, but not the 3V 5.4.

 

Positive lol.

 

I just Googled it found supporting evidence for my case

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/5stav...006-f-150.html
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...?f=31&t=104452

No EGR or related parts listed on RockAuto under exhaust, engine, or emission either. But they are for the 4.6 under "emission"

So I gotcha on this one!

 

Well I can do that, -

http://www.partsgeek.com/c1mpzp2-for...oducts+EGV1136

 

Look what you wrote in the quote. lol

 

That ONLY fits a 4.6, which further cements my stand haha. Find me an 04-10 3 or 4 valve 5.4 liter EGR valve and then post links! 100 bucks says my truck has no such part. I'm also sure that the variable cam timing is why the 5.4's have cam phaser issues, of which the 4.6 and 4.2 are completely devoid. Anyone who can prove me correct, or incorrect (like that's gonna happen!), feel free to chime in haha

What do you mean? What did I quote?