well got it all ready, primed it started it and for some reason its going wild. I have no control over it with the remote its turning the wheels left and right and it will go from idle to wide open. NOt sure what the deal is

 

That's good about it being 2.4, I just assumed it was an AM system as the guy in the vid on the site referred to it as an AM radio while unpacking it. I'm curious as to why the long antenna tube, being that most 2.4 rx have a a shorty antenna. You only need the tube to be as long as the antenna itself.

What is the charging rate of the charger? What is the chemistry of the 2100mah battery - NiMH? That's the equivalent to a NiMH AA battery. The charging rate for those chargers will be anywhere from 120-170 Mah, so you're probably looking at anywhere from almost 12 1/2 to 17 1/2 hrs for a full charge. battery capacity/charging rate=charging time.

 

If everything is plugged in correctly and you have fresh rx batteries, it sounds like you have some sort of interference. Check to make sure the antenna isn't pinched, damaged or making contact with anything.

Did you bind the tx to the rx properly? Before firing it up, did you test the steering and throttle servos to make sure everything was working properly?

 

Ok first off you are right it is a AM reciever, the instructions has 2 different model cars and mine had the am. I have interference in the house i got away and it did pretty good just took off on me once and had to chase it threw the field. Thank god it landed in a brush pile or it wouldve never stopped . I know it is running rich cause there is a little fuel spitting out of the exhaust. Im gonna try to tune it tomorrow. Overall its a pretty cool little toy. If changing to a 2.4ghz will there be less chance of interference? And how hard is it to change?

 

2.4ghz, isnt that the same freq as a lot of networking devices, phones, and such?

I Use to run a FM receiver, mine was one of the ones you could change on the fly with a screwdriver.

 

Welcome to nitro RC!
It's happened to everyone who's run nitro, even though some won't admit it...

The 2.4Ghz systems utilize freq hopping, spread spectrum technology which eliminates almost all interference thus increasing the range of the system. Check out this shootout of 2.4 systems Big Squid RC writeup. They compare a lot of features, prices, range, etc..

They're easy to change out. Open up your rx box and inside you'll find the small receiver. Three things are plugged into it - steering/throttle servos and the battery box. You'll need some heavy duty double sided servo tape and that's about it. Simply plug the 3 items back in, bind it to the Tx and you're ready to go. Besides the added features, the cool part is you'll eliminate the long goofy antennae - both the rx and tx.

 

What do you think of this one? http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt2-blue.html

 

It's my understanding that those are excellent entry level 2.4 systems and at an extremely low price compared to the big name systems - it even has free shipping. It doesn't mention it, but the RX looks to have a built in fail safe. With the tx having a built in charging port, you can use rechargeable AA's and the low voltage warning will tell ya when to charge it.

For me, the only downside I see is that it uses 8 AA's. My Futaba 2.4 uses only 4 AA's and I can tell the difference on race days when I'm holding it for long periods of time. But it was 5x the cost plus tax and an extra rx for my second truck cost me another $45.

I bought a lipo charger from that company (hobbypartz) and I had no issues with shipping or anything. The only downside is with their low prices, sometimes they can sell out on some items fairly quick. The ground shipping was 2-3 days if I recall correctly.

 

I think your gonna get some fluid out of the tailpipe no matter what. I believe thats just the nature of a nitro rc. Thats the only thing i dont like about my TMAXX. It has that side exit exhaust. Get done runnin that thing for a while and its got crap all over the side of the body.

Just wait. You are gonna have alot of fun. I liked working/modding mine almost as much as running it. TMAXX has all the RPM control arms, skid plates, steering and throttle/brake servos. Put a new F650 body painted a pearl white. New wheels and tires.

Slayer has new wheel an tire. New shocks. Upgraded servos. Upgraded 2.4ghz system.

Its great. Parts for the most part are cheap. These really are high performance machines. They are just smaller and easier to work on

 

Just ordered it this morning. Thanks
Cant wait for this snow and ice to melt away so i can get out there and play with it.

 

No prob.

Here's a couple vids to check out.

http://www.youtube.com/user/nitrorcx#p/u/56/jBcJimub-74

http://www.youtube.com/user/nitrorcx#p/u/51/BRV0cHBJ-AI

 

Damn guys i got the wrong car, shouldve got this one

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_7ck...layer_embedded

 

The engine is going to put out some oil. That stuff blowing out is carrying a lot of heat with it. That's the drawback of 2 stroke engine. But it becomes a great cologhne

 

Alright guys still having porblems with interference on this damn AM system. Ive got brand new charged rayovac batteries in the remote. and 4 charged new batteries in the Reciever of the car. I want to get a rechargeable battery pack for the reciever instead of it running off 4AA batteries. What volt etc battery pack do i need for the reciever on the car. I saw somewhere on you tube they recommended a Lipo battery pack. Cant seem to find it agian.

 

You sure it was LiPo and not LiFe? The problem with these batteries is if you drop them below a certain voltage (lipo - 3 volts per cell, LiFe - 2.5 volts per cell), they will start to do damage to the packs. If you want to see some smoke and fire shows, youtube lipo battery explosions. But of the two, LiFe battery packs are safer and can take a tad bit more abuse, with less damaging effects, than Lipos.

The downside to lipo/life batteries - buy a new battery charger that can handle the battery's chemistry, a balancer if the charger doesn't have one built in, you'll want a flame proof charging bag, a voltage regulator for the lipo to work more efficiently and a low voltage alarm. The only problem with a low voltage alarm is you can't hear them in the noisy nitros.....

If you already have rechargeable AA's w/ a charger, If it were me, I'd just stick with those. The big craze with Lipos in the RC world is their HUGE performance advantage over NiMh in all electric vehicles. On the nitro side, their advantage as rx packs will only be seen to hardcore pro racers. The lipo/life packs have a better discharge curve over NiMh which gives better servo response over a discharge cycle. But I doubt you or I could ever tell the difference.

As far as voltage, mah - you'll want a minimum of 4.8v & 2000mah (which is equal to 4 NiMh AA's). LiFe's are 6.6v and LiPo's are 7.4v.