I have a switch in my house that keeps failing, why?

The switch is for the garbage disposal (1/3 Hp) and has stopped working 3 times since I bought the house new in 2003. I have power to the line side of the switch but the load side has nothing, the problem is always in the switch itself. Changing out the switch is not a big deal but I am getting tired of doing it. Any ideas on why this one switch keeps going kaput?

 

^ What switch are you putting in? Is it rated for the amp load of your disposal? I would imagine that it would be, but still worth thinking about.

Have you tried a more expensive switch? Maybe the brand that your using is a cheap product that wears out quick.

 

Also make sure that the wires connected to the switch are on there good and that the insulation is not in the way of the connection. If you have a bad connection, there will be a hot spot there and that will lead to the switch going bad.

 

The connections are good, bare wire all the way around the terminal screw and nice and tight. I checked the power at the terminal not the disposal wire so there is not a wiring problem. I have power at the in side and nothing at the out.

The switch itself is a 15A Levition. The disposal is rated for 6.7A so I shouldn't be overloading the switch. I will check at Lowes for better switch and wait a few years to see it it works. Once I pull the bad one out I will take it apart to see if there is an obvious failure point.

 

if its the leviton switches that are in the bottom basket for 49 cents that might be your problem. my guess is that the switch is burning up the contacts inside from that initial surge when the motor starts. upgrade to a better switch or install a relay. better switch would be a lot cheaper and easier.

 

I'm thinking that might be part of the problem. I was messing with it this afternoon and the switch works again. I turned it on and off rapidly a few times and it did nothing. I whacked it pretty good to turn it on and that made the switch work. Now it seems to work perfectly fine again. I think the internals of that type of switch aren't up to the job and get distorted or burnt due to the power surge. I will pick up a better switch next time I am at Lowes.

 

the problem is those 49 cent switches. get the more expensive switch, i quit using those cheap things more problems than they are worth, when one makes several call backs due to things not working, its cheaper to install the more expense switch than a cheap one.

"The bitterness of poor quality outlast the sweetness of a good deal"

 

Are you using 12 Gage wire?

 

get a car battery and hook that some beach up direct

 

I'll second this. I'm not an E-Lec-Trician, but I do stay at a Holiday Inn....and I have been known to play one at home & work.

If you have one, use an ammeter to check the amps on the motor while running & grinding. You could also check the voltage at the GD when you flip on the switch.

 

Levition makes junk just like Pass & Seymour does, they need to keep the revenue for the "shackers" in their pocket.

I am not sure what Levition line Lowes carries, Home Depot has the junk Levition in the bin, and the pro line is the box ( which costs 5 x what the bin ones do ).

If the switch was one in a box, the issue could be caused by a disposal that is gummed up or on its way out. As suggested above, check with a meter for the AMP draw on start up. If your meter does not have a peak hold, you will really need to pay attention to the display when you flip the switch.
Best to let the disposal unit sit unused over night or for 2 days when you try this test. If the blade mount is coated in grease ( from the PO ) this would allow it to gel up again, and let you see the problem.

Most disposals have a hex head nut on the bottom of the unit on the motor shaft for backing off pressure if something gets jammed in there. Try spinning it with the 45* allen wrench you should have for it ( or you can try a std t handle one ) to see if there is binding or if you can move the shaft side to side.

Could be a good cleaning, which if gummed to the point of causing ~ 14A of current inrush, you might need one of the foaming packets to clean it out.
Usually filling the sink with cold water and 2 trays of ice cubes with the plug in, and running the disposal, then pulling the plug on the sink will clean most things out of it ( the dry run is for ~ 1 sec, not going to hurt it, only long term dry or hot water running will kill it off ).

 

That's some good info there SSCULLY. I am sure the problem is with the el cheapo switch from what I remember it was the 50 cent one from the bin. Using the allen key that came with the disposal it can be turned with one finger. I bought the house new about 7 years ago and don't ever remember jamming it up before so I doubt a blade is bent or there is any internal damage to it.

 

Sorry missed the purchased new in 2003 in the 1st post, my mistake.

The motor spins fine, so it seems the internals are not the issue.

Think that leaves it down to the switch ( maybe even go overboard and get a commercial 20A for it ) or the motor for the disposal is on the way out ( not expected, but can happen - constant high current in rush ).

Try the 20A single pole switch, and see what happens. These should only be in the box, don't recall seeing a bin with 20A in it. Commercial buildings are usually the only think with 20A switches in it.
If you have decora switches, you might have to try online or an electrical supply house, the big box stores only usually carry the 15 A decora switches.

 

actually if it was wired properly to code it would be 12 guage wire. but with that said, the switch itself is the problem, turning lights on and off is different than turning on the motor on and off, thats why i said earlier that i would upgrade to a better switch. and that i dont install the cheaper version due to way to many call backs. JMHO ... and experience

 

Single phase Square D motor data calculator shows a 1/3 HP motor on 14 AWG is a full load current of 7.2 A using 14 AWG THW, THHN, or XHHW wire at 75* C.

Local codes can vary, the NEC does not specify that the disposal unit needs to have 12 AWG. 1999 NEC table 310 shows 14 AWG copper can handle a 20A load, and 12 AWG can handle a 25 A load. Local building codes still stick to the old TN coated wire specs of 15A for 14 AWG and 20A for 12 AWG.

The disposal does not require 12 AWG, just like the lights and dishwasher ( from NEC, not local codes ). The outlets are the only 20A load requirement in the kitchen.
Standard procedure ( unless local code requires something else ) is to wire the disposal to the 15 A lighting circuit in the kitchen ( if "openings" are available on the circuit ).
If local code requires this to be on the 20A outlet circuit, the standard installation from the NEC for a 20A circuit with the 12 AWG wire and a 20A switch would already be there, and this should not have been an issue.
The NEC requires all items in the electrical distribution circuit to be able to carry the max load that the circuit is designed for.
A 15A switch on a 12 AWG / 20A circuit to a light that draws 5 A is not allowed.