I heard about you, so I didn't ask, I just went and drug one onto the platform carrier. That was 4 years ago and I still haven't installed it. That thing that has been heating my water for over 21 years just won't die. A friend (plumber) put it in for me over 21 years ago in exchange for some work I did for him. I told him I wanted a good one and I guess he got me a GOOD one. I think it's fiberglass lined or lined with something anyway. Tired of storing the new one so I guess I'll need to get busy and put it in one of these days!

 

You can always change the anode rod from an aluminum rod to a magnesium rod or vice versa. Changing the rod will help with the sulfur smell.

 

I've installed hundreds of water heaters of many different styles. They were all cold water heaters. If someone had hot water already, I would advise them that they don't need to heat it again.

I know the OP considers me useless, so my comments are directed at anyone else. Generally if there is a combustion blower, as on a power or direct vent, there won't be a standing pilot. There has to be a sequence of operations before the main burner lights. The first being that the blower has to turn on. Usually the pilot is ignited by a spark or hot surface ignitor. There is a flame sensor that will sense the pilot flame and will allow the main burner to fire. This operates almost exactly as a typical thermocouple, however the cost to replace the parts is considerably more and generally aren't available in a home center.

I have been a plumber for almost twenty years, but I have not seen everything, so I may be wrong about this. In the end, I would go along with what most people have said, and replace the tank. If there is hard water, something that might help would be to go with an upgraded anode, or a secondary anode. Also, many water heater manufacturers reccomend replacing the anode rod every so often.

 

I hope you don't get upset at me reading over your comments wittom, which I thank you for by the way.

Here's a photo of the tank:

I'd say that since the start of August, the pilot has went out 3 times now, maybe like every 2 weeks. All I do is unplug the motor at the top, wait a couple of minutes, and when I plug it back in, it turns back on like normal.

In any case, I do know that when stuff like this happens, it is for a reason and I didn't think it was some 'fluke' thing, not after the 2nd time it happened.

Our house is built on solid limestone, and a few times a year (early spring and early fall), the water stinks something awful. Not enough to justify the expense of one of those $3,000 machines, but it's still very unpleasant for 5 or 6 weeks out of the year. I found by removing that rod, it helped to remove some of the stink, but like I said, I didn't understand the importance of it like I do now.

So for 5 years now, that tank has been operating with the rod removed, and the water is really hard...I forgot the actual numbers from the ater test, but it's too hard to drink without being treated first.

By the way, do any of you guys have an idea on what I should be looking at to replace a tank like this? Cost of tank and labour to install?

Once place I called quoted me $1,360 + taxes

 

I don't know what to tell you about the water smell and removal issue.
But. As far as the heaters problem you describe, I still lean toward a safety override issue. It sounds to me, like something is causing a problem that will occasionaly shut down the heater. Then when you turn it off and turn it back on your resetting the safety.
First you need to find out which safety device it is, then find out why it is tripping. Is it a faulty device or is the device working fine and it's actualy sensing a true safety problem. If you have knowledge of how the heaters componants work you could probably test it all out and repair it yourself.
I know enough about mine and propane in general to troubleshoot some of it and then I had to call in the company that provides my propane.
I suspect that your natural gas provider has a service dept. It may be worth calling them, if you haven't already.

I just had a "direct vent" propane heater installed at a clients lake house and if I remember right the plumbers bill I paid was just under 1K.

 

Good idea, they are always very quick to come over. One time I thought I smelled something strange, they sent a guy over to check out all the gas lines, no charge, they would rather be safe etc.

One more question, maybe you guys might know...
When these HWT fail, does it always result in the water going out all over the floor? (like you see on TV)
Or do they ever fail, but the water just stays inside.

I always think of that episodes of the Sopranos where Tony comes home and his basement is covered in 2 feet of water. I mkight look into the tankless system also like someone suggested.


Last month it was the garage door openers, now this, it's always something isn't it?
* It's like Karma knows when you have an extra thousand in your bank and it says "oh, here, let me find you a reason to have to blow that cash"

 

Of all the water heaters I have dealt with throughout the various homes I take care of for the last 19 years. I don't ever recall one of them failing like you described, although I am sure it is possible.
You would typically see moisture on the floor around the heater first or the dripping of a leak somewhere, maybe some moisture showing around the edge of the seam at the bottom outside of the tank. etc.
Unless it has been leaking for a LONG time and for some reason you NEVER walk by it, you will know it is leaking long before it becomes a flood issue.

 

Just like cars don't blow up when you shoot them in the radiator with a 9mm, the water heater won't make your house a giant hot tub! That's Hollywood. But it will likely not be pretty.

 

Hot water tanks can leak pretty badly with out much warning. I think that's pretty rare though. Like mlamprey said, most of the time you will see signs of leakage before a catastrophy. One thing that might help is to go to the home center and pick up a water alarm. I think they are about twenty bucks. Change the battery every time you change your smoke detector battery and it should tell you when you have a leaker.

If it were me going out to check out this heater I would first check the flame sensor. Sometimes you can correct the problem by cleaning it with a piece of scratch cloth. Only sometimes. I would check to make sure that the air openings are clear. It appears from the picture that the air opening are at the bottom. If you have a clothes dryer vent that is leaking or a lot of pet hair, these openings can become blocked. Even if they are only partially blocked, there may be a oxygen sensor that is being tripped or a flame roll out sensor.

There are many possible causes for the problem being described here, even with a reletively simple set up. It is an older heater so if parts are expensive it might not be worth fixing. Thirteen hundred for a new direct vent installed sounds about right, giver or take.

 

But what would happen if one were to shot the water heater with a 9mm?

 

Thanks wit, I really do appreciate your help.
I really like the alarm suggestion, I'll get one of those tomorrow.

Here's a really dumb question...I've got a 'friend of a friend who knows a guy' coming over to check it out because I'm not good with this kind of stuff.

My question is, if you were going to call someone to fix this, is it a plumber you call? I was never sure, I thought maybe there were people who specialized in these things and maybe a heating/cooling place was the place to look for service.
Or is it specifically a plumber who has his gas ticket who installs these? I have no clue.

Regards
Habs

 

Not sure.......maybe you could talk Habs into trying it!
You up for it Habs?

 

I am Canadian bro, I can throw a pop can at it and see what happens

 

For all you non-northerners:

Pop= soda
soda= coke (everything in the south is a "coke" except sweet tea)

Grew up in Ohio and used to say, "gimme a pop" for years. Then laughter from a southerner would follow.