So for the past few months the 60amp breaker for my hot tub would trip every week or so. I would reset it and it would be fine for another week or so and then trip. I checked it tonight and it was tripped again but this time I can't reset it. It trips immediately after I reset it. I checked all the connections and everything was tight. So I went and bought a new breaker, installed it and it's doing the same thing. As soon as I turn the breaker on, it trips. The tub has been working perfect for 2 years prior to a few months ago when the breaker started to trip. Any ideas on what to check or where the problem might be?

I have a 50amp on the main panel in the house which seems fine. Never trips.
220 running to the breaker box next to the tub, thru the breaker and out to the tub. Like I said, everything is tight, visually looks good, like no cuts or chewed up or anything.

Of course we are expecting 12" of snow by tomorrow night and this has to happen. I put a heater in the cabinet hoping to keep the lines from freezing. Man when it rains, it pours... If there ever is a real "test" in life, I must be taking it for the past few weeks.



BREW

 

The pump may be burning out, and simply drawing to much current on start up. Measure the resistance across the poles of the pump motor. I think the tag on the pump notor will tell you what it should be. But if it is zero, I think it may be time for a new pump.
I think that is what electricians refer to as "Gone to Ground"

 

For one thing, you said you have a 50 amp in the main and a 60 amp for the tub. The main needs to be the same or higher. Another, what size wire is coming from the 60 amp to the motor? The bigger the better. No. 10 or No. 8 would be what I would run for 220. And last, just like Tumba said, the motor might be heading south if not already since you can not reset the breaker.

 

The length of the wire can kill the amperage also. I'm not the most experienced one here on electrical. But it seems there was a thread similar to this one a few month ago.

 

Call a Licensed Electrician.

 

You probably have a short in your lines somewhere or dont have the proper wire gauge. I would have someone come out and take a look at it.

 

I agree you are shorted.

 

Could be moister. Do you have seal-tite connectors?

 

I'm assuming that all wiring was originally installed by a licensed electrician and inspected by your city/county electrical inspector. If not, I would immediately OPEN THE 50A MAIN AND CALL A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. If you burn your house down, your home owner's insurance MAY NOT COVER YOU if the installation doesn't meet code.

Here's my guesses based on what you've told us.

The fault probably is at or after the 60A breaker (otherwise the 50A would trip as soon as it's closed). Of course the 50A could also be defective.

The fault could be in the wiring or it could be in the equipment (pump, lighting, heater, etc.).

Open the 50A breaker. Using a multi-meter, confirm there is no voltage on the line/incoming side of the 50A breaker.

At the 50A breaker location, check resistance on the load conductors (load side of the breaker) to ground. Both should be infinite (open circuit). If either is zero (short circuit), you have determined which phase conductor is permanently grounded. Now all you have to do is find out where. If both are infinite, then it could be the motor (bad bearing causing the current to go to an overload value) or it could be a bad contactor in the tub's heating element/circuit (if it has one).

I do agree that the two breakers should have the same trip setting, but it's not critical as long as the main is larger (to prevent the main from tripping first), the wire between the main and the tub breaker is properly sized, and the tub breaker is properly sized for the connected load.

Also keep in mind, most 'home center quality' breakers should be replaced after each high current/trip event. Also note that these breakers are usually rated to only carry 80% of the listed value (20A is only rated for 16A continuous).

For a 50A circuit (assuming the distance is reasonable and voltage drop is not an issue) you need at least #8 copper or #6 aluminum (NEC table 310-16, 75 degree C column). For 60A, you need #6 copper and #4 aluminum.

If you're at all unsure on what you're doing, PLEASE OPEN THE 50A AT THE MAIN PANEL AND CALL A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN.

Those little electrons travel really quickly and don't care that you 'thought you knew what you're doing'.

 

need a new pump call an electrician.

 

Boosting the post count huh?

 

GD posts aren't counted.

Call an electrician. Safe wiring is not a hobby.
I would hate to hear you got fried in your hot tub because of a work around.

 

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is a GD post?

My point was JJDH's post offered no new advice or information, so why bother? In fact, based on the information, he has no way of knowing the pump is bad.

 

GD stands for General Discussion. When you post in any threads in GD, your post count will stay the same.

 

Thanks!