I'm sorry guys but why do these spark plugs blow out? Not sure I understand it. Also why do they break when changing them??

 

You are talking about 2 separate issues. You have a 2007 so you do not need to worry about blow outs. Blow outs were on older 2 valve heads with only 4 threads holding them in. Proper torque is very important on those. The newer plugs broke when changing them due to a poor design by the spark plug manufacturer to meet Ford's need for a long deep plug. The original design was a 2 piece design that would pull apart during removal due to carbon build up on the threads extending into the cylinder.

 

The blow outs are also happening from changing the spark plugs and striping the threads, the block is cast iron and the heads are aluminum. The #8 on driver side near firewall is so hard to get to that if you dont put it in right you will cross the threads and strip it in the soft alluminum and the 4 threads cant hold and and pops out. My friends mustang had it happen after a tune up with plugs.

 

They come out from lack of torque and/or using anti seize on the threads.

They break off due to a **** poor design.

 

Thanks guys.

I knew they were two different situations and had seen many posts on here but was not sure WHY the plugs were doing this.

 

Because it's because Ford can't seem to get a simple spark plug / head design right. I mean come on I have not heard of other manufactures having this many problems with plugs....especially on back to back engines. Granted there are other problems that other manufactures try to sweep under the rug but the spark plug has directly affected me so I'm a little sore on the subject.

 

Ford designed the heads, not the plugs. Two strikes for poor head designs and a third strike for not testing their plug suppliers' parts better.

Proper use of anti-seize will not cause blow outs. If you do not know how to correctly apply it then you may be better off without it.

 

Anti seize changes the actual torque value of the plugs during installation, usually leading to them being undertorqued. I've seen more plugs come out unexpectedly with anti seize on the threads than without.

 

Now, cross my fingers and knock on wood but I changed mine at 155k km's so approx 100k miles and they were easy. Only 1 had rust on it, probably me not drying it right after washing the engine. I did put a dab of antisieze on the threads, just enough to coat it. I then tightened them by feel, not torque and so far so good. Now I'm at 219k km's and still good. I do want to replace soon to be safe but who knows when that will be. I'm one to use antisieze on the threads as a rule of thumb, but by no means a glob, just a coating. It seems hit and miss with the blow out's, breakage I don't know about as mine falls into the 97-03 catagory.

 

The guys at blownoutsparkplug.com say to use Motorcraft SP-series plugs, NO antiseize, and torque to 28-32 ft/lb. They say the SP's are nickel plated and are designed for the dissimilar metal.

 

Again, proper use of anti-seize will not cause blowouts. If you do not know how to use it you are better off without it.

 

Do tell us what "proper" is.

 

Adjusting your torque using the K factor (google it if you need more info) provided by the anti seize manufacturer and not applying too much. People have been doing it for years. It is not rocket science. If you are not comfortable using it then don't use it.