This may belong in the "Wheels & Tires" section, but I'd like a few answers/opinions on this, so I thought I'd post it here as well...

I have a '99 F150 with the Off-Road Package and thus have the 17" chromed steel wheels. I had my tires rotated and balanced a few months ago at Tires Plus and again last week. I washed my truck a couple of nights ago and I noticed that the balancing weights they used the first time left some pretty nasty wear marks on my wheels...looks like it's all the way through the chrome. I talked to Tires Plus about it and got the usual "That's normal" story from them. Has anyone else had this problem with the weights causing damamge to the wheel finish? Along with the obvious fact that my wheels don't look as good as they once did, I'm also now concerned about rust. I guess I can't believe that in this day and age, nobody has been able to come up with a product that won't damage the wheels. Thanks for any info on this.

Matt

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99 F150 X-Cab 4x4 SB, 5.4L V8, Deep Wedgewood Blue/Dark Graphite, ORP, 3.73 LS, Tow Pkg, Captain's Chairs
AIRAID, Luvernve Stainless Nerf Bars, BedRug Bed Liner
Lund: Frontrunner bug deflector, Eclipse taillight covers, Eclipse quarter window shades all painted to match

Sony: Mobile ES CDX-C7850 head unit, Mobile ES XDP-U50D DSP, MDX-65 MiniDisc changer
Rockford Fosgate: Punch 600a5 amp, 2 Punch XLC 4 Ohm 8" subs
Infinity: Kappa 63.1i's in the front, Kappa 62.1i's in the rear
StreetWires: Zero Noise 5.0 patch cables, UltraFlow Power cable, Power Distribution Blocks, speaker wire

 

MattT-
I can say that I also have the marks on my wheels as well...and they weren't done at Tires Plus, they were done by a Ford dealer when they were balanced....I have new tires on now, and haven't had to have them re-balanced yet, but will keep informed as to if there are more marks on the wheels as I have to have them done agian soon!!!!
Good to see some more Minnesota members on here....should all try and get together agian...already had one meeting, and got four trucks to show up.

 

Unfortunately I don't have a suggestion on what to do about the existing marks, if they go through the chrome there probably isn't much that can be done.
However. In the future ask them to put the weights on the INSIDE edge of the wheel, not only do you not have to see the marks but you don't have to look at the weights either.
Some places don't like to do it because it's a little more difficult to place the weight in the right spot, and they'll tell you it won't balance right at high speeds. It CAN be made to balance right and you're not running the Daytona 500, you're just getting on the freeway.
Hope this helps.



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1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS
and everything but the leaky slider window.
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone, Leather Captain's Chairs
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.

 

Guys,

Have them mount the weights on the inside of the wheel from now on. They'll use double-sided tape and a flat weight strip if you ask for it--provided you ask, AND it's a shop that carries 'inside' weights (for custom wheels). Most high-line tire and custom wheels shops do. You just can't forget to ask!!

Indyfan,

You must type way more faster than me!

[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 08-16-2000).]

 

Thanks for the advice, about the inside of the wheel...as for the "tape weights" I have had bad luck with them in the past getting thrown off the wheel when offroading, and then the tire/wheel is even worse....and then it gets worse with mud in the wheel as well.....But thanks for the advice guys...this is a great board!!!!

 

I think you can get a static balance with no weights on the outside of the wheel, but for a true dynamic balance the weights must be on both the inside and outside. Am I wrong?

 

MattT:
Are your wheel the ones that came with the Northland editions in 99? And are also on Lariats. 5 spoke non-directional. If so you would have the same wheels as I do and they are not chrome steel. The chromed part is actually a plastic liner that is molded to the wheel, only the outer edge of the steel wheel is exposed and it is painted silver. If that is the case rub out what you can for scratches. I think there must be a chrome repair kit out there somewhere. If not put some clear finger nail polish on the scratches to seal the edges.


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1999 F150 S.Cab 4x4
Northland Edition,5.4
Off road pkg. Fleetside
Black w/grey int.

 

I Brakleen the whole area, and then run a bead of silicon over them when I'm worried about the weights coming off.

 

Thanks for all of the info on this guys. I guess from now on I'll make sure to tell them to mount the weights on the inside edge of the wheel. Hopefully they will do this without much of a hassle, because I just bought one of their lifetime wheel/tire rotation and balancing plans for my tires. If they don't, I guess I'll take my business elsewhere from now on!

Bob,
Yes, those are the wheels I have...I was thinking they were chromed steel, because that's what the F150 brochure said, but you're right, it's just plastic, so on the bright side, I guess I don't have to worry about rust! :-)

Thanks again,
Matt

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99 F150 X-Cab 4x4 SB, 5.4L V8, Deep Wedgewood Blue/Dark Graphite, ORP, 3.73 LS, Tow Pkg, Captain's Chairs
AIRAID, Luvernve Stainless Nerf Bars, BedRug Bed Liner
Lund: Frontrunner bug deflector, Eclipse taillight covers, Eclipse quarter window shades all painted to match

Sony: Mobile ES CDX-C7850 head unit, Mobile ES XDP-U50D DSP, MDX-65 MiniDisc changer
Rockford Fosgate: Punch 600a5 amp, 2 Punch XLC 4 Ohm 8" subs
Infinity: Kappa 63.1i's in the front, Kappa 62.1i's in the rear
StreetWires: Zero Noise 5.0 patch cables, UltraFlow Power cable, Power Distribution Blocks, speaker wire