any plumbers on here

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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 03:56 AM
  #31  
chrism9232's Avatar
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From: Kentucky
Originally Posted by wittom
I usually don't reccomend the use of drain cleaners because usually if the drain is that clogged, you end up throwing money down the sewer with your average drain cleaner. Having said that, it a worst case scenario, we use Clobber brand drain cleaner. It's a sulfuric acid based cleaner. It's extremely caustic. If you choose this route, please follow the directions.
i cant find clobber any were. but they said this is real good is that true?
http://www.herchem.com/specs/glug.pdf
do you thing that will work?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 05:26 AM
  #32  
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From: mass.
ive been doing building maintenance for around 10 years and id say 50% of my work orders are plumbing related so.. i know its not glamarous under the sink lol. i know carpentry, electrical ,boliers. furnaces etc...i make decent money but i know that license would put me in a much better position salary wise.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 07:25 AM
  #33  
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From: Western Massachusetts
Originally Posted by chrism9232
do you think that will work?
I'd say that if you can get it, it's worth a try. If it's something organic, like food or grease this stuff might do the trick. If it's a rust build up in the galvanized pipe, especially where there is a transition from galvanized to cast iron, it might not do the job.


wfin2004 passed on some good info too. He's right, the use of drain cleaner can wreak havoc. I'm not as adamant about not using them, but if you end up needing to get a plumber involved you should let him know what you've already tried. I'd guess that most plumbers would opt for the use of a snake before using any drain cleaner. I always make every attempt to clear a blockage with a snake. I try to look at a situation from the home owners perspective. Sometimes you can solve a problem your self.

If this stuff is reletively cheap it might be worth a try. It looks to be a little less caustic than Clobber. Following the directions is definitely the way to go.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 10:04 AM
  #34  
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From: Riverview, Florida
Originally Posted by wittom


Wouldn't it be easier to cut in a dandy closer to the base of the stack with a couple of Missions? There should be one there anyhow. I don't like to work on the roof unless I have to. In one of his pictures it appears that someone may have already cut the stack and coupled it with a Fernco. It might be easier to snake from there.

maybe...But who wants to cut in anything when just the drain is plugged. I would rather go on a roof than pull apart some old nasty looking cobble jobs I have seen.
 

Last edited by wfin2004; Jun 8, 2008 at 10:04 AM. Reason: edit
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by chrism9232
well part of your problem is the tie ins are to close, and it looks the the washer box ties in above the sink drain, can't really tell if that a side outlet tee or 2 tees stacked on each other but they should be the other way for the suds factor, even if the drain was clog free the way it's set up now your always going to have washer box water running back into the kitchen sink trap an coming up into the sink in my opinion. I would call a licensed plumber an have it fixed the right way.

hope this helps shadow
 

Last edited by shadowscrew7; Jun 8, 2008 at 11:44 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 05:34 PM
  #36  
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From: Riverview, Florida
I can see by the pics he has a "major" drain (washer) over a "minor" drain (K.S.) The 2" washer drian should never be above the 1 1/2" kitchen drain. This is one of the first rules of plumbing. A high capacity discharge in the washer will ALWAYS back up in the KSink even if the drain is only mildly plugged. But it has been working for a long time before this problem ever became noticeable. It wii be a piece of cake to rod this line and have no issues for a couple of years.
 
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