Hot Water Heater Question
Thanks for the help, guys. I sincerely appreciate it.
My water quality is ultra-hard. High total dissolved solids (TDS). City water (Ohio River source).
I should've mentioned that I *do* have an expansion tank on this system (local code). The model is a State Select PR640NORT. 40-gallon.
Naturally, there's a drain valve (hose connect) on the side of the unit. Do I need to kill the gas to the unit pre-drain? Water?
My water quality is ultra-hard. High total dissolved solids (TDS). City water (Ohio River source).
I should've mentioned that I *do* have an expansion tank on this system (local code). The model is a State Select PR640NORT. 40-gallon.
Naturally, there's a drain valve (hose connect) on the side of the unit. Do I need to kill the gas to the unit pre-drain? Water?
In order for it to drain faster you can open the relief valve on the side.
After it drains completely, I like to crack the cold water supply open to give it a pressurized flush.
When you are done, shut the drain valve and remove the hose. Open the cold water supply. The relief valve may leak slightly until it reseats. Don't forget to turn the heat back up or your wife will be PO'd!
Grim
Thank you, sir. I may attempt this tomorrow evening so that it has the night to reheat the incoming supply. Plus, I'm going to have to hawk a piece of a hose to make this work (and, go figure, I just got rid of two junk hoses last week -- I wasn't thinking).
-RP-
-RP-
Had the same problem for years with my previous house's hot water heater. I would flush it and the problem would go away for awhile, but it would come back after several months. There was alot of tds in that water too.
I got a brand new one and set it aside thinking that some day the knocks would punch holes in the old one, but it never did fail. Now my new house has an electric heater and I still have this brand new gas version.
Oh well.
I got a brand new one and set it aside thinking that some day the knocks would punch holes in the old one, but it never did fail. Now my new house has an electric heater and I still have this brand new gas version.
Oh well.
Grim - Can you elaborate on this?
A Word Of CAUTION... not against flushing the tank... but just in case you have the same problem I did.
A couple years ago I went to flush out my hot water heater... using the plastic valve at the bottom and a garden hose. Unfortunately, when I went to close the valve back up there was aparently a piece of sediment in the valve and it cut the seal. All I could tell is that it wasn't sealing up tight.
So I figured I'd just change the valve, right? I drained the tank and went to take the valve out. But of course the cheap valve that came with the water heater was entirely plastic and had been in there for years and years... it busted off...
With the good advice of a Lowe's employee (ya, I was shocked too) I used a hacksaw blade to make 3-4 cuts through the plastic (carefully) and then I could use a screwdriver to pop out the old busted valve and I threaded in a nice metal valve that was much more solid.
Just thought I'd share in case anyone else has the same problem. I was ready to replace the hole heater till I got the good advice.
BTW - I took the old valve apart to see what failed... they just use an o-ring that is installed on an funky angle to seal up the valve... it is a really cheap way of doing it.
For those that read this all (sorry, it got kinda long)... if you ever buy a new hot water heater... I suggest replacing the drain valve immediately. When it comes time to replace mine (if I don't go with tankless) I will spend the extra 8 bucks to put a solid valve in from the start so I don't have to worry about the cheap plastic valve.
A couple years ago I went to flush out my hot water heater... using the plastic valve at the bottom and a garden hose. Unfortunately, when I went to close the valve back up there was aparently a piece of sediment in the valve and it cut the seal. All I could tell is that it wasn't sealing up tight.
So I figured I'd just change the valve, right? I drained the tank and went to take the valve out. But of course the cheap valve that came with the water heater was entirely plastic and had been in there for years and years... it busted off...
With the good advice of a Lowe's employee (ya, I was shocked too) I used a hacksaw blade to make 3-4 cuts through the plastic (carefully) and then I could use a screwdriver to pop out the old busted valve and I threaded in a nice metal valve that was much more solid.
Just thought I'd share in case anyone else has the same problem. I was ready to replace the hole heater till I got the good advice.
BTW - I took the old valve apart to see what failed... they just use an o-ring that is installed on an funky angle to seal up the valve... it is a really cheap way of doing it.
For those that read this all (sorry, it got kinda long)... if you ever buy a new hot water heater... I suggest replacing the drain valve immediately. When it comes time to replace mine (if I don't go with tankless) I will spend the extra 8 bucks to put a solid valve in from the start so I don't have to worry about the cheap plastic valve.
I'm not Grim, but I know what he is talking about as I do the same thing when I flush mine. Let the tank drain completely. Leave the drain valve open, and turn on the water again. This will stir up what is on the bottom of the tank and allow it to come out. Let drain again and repeat until the water runs clear. You should then have most of the junk off the bottom of the tank.
I'm not Grim, but I know what he is talking about as I do the same thing when I flush mine. Let the tank drain completely. Leave the drain valve open, and turn on the water again. This will stir up what is on the bottom of the tank and allow it to come out. Let drain again and repeat until the water runs clear. You should then have most of the junk off the bottom of the tank.

Grim
Thanks for the help and the advice, fellas. Much appreciated.
I realized this evening that I don't have a 'doner hose' to make this work. I think we have a junky one at the office so, I may have to walk it home with me.
Again, thanks guys!
I realized this evening that I don't have a 'doner hose' to make this work. I think we have a junky one at the office so, I may have to walk it home with me.

Again, thanks guys!
Use can always use the water hose you use to wash your truck. Based on your posts in the other parts of the site, I'm quite sure you have one! 
In all seriousness, I use the same water hose I use to water my lawn, etc.
Grim
In all seriousness, I use the same water hose I use to water my lawn, etc.
Grim
Just in case things dont go as planned, I would suggest NOT doing it on a Sunday or in the evening.
After hour emergency plumbing repairs get costly.....

Just in case your plumbing ability is like mine.
After hour emergency plumbing repairs get costly.....

Just in case your plumbing ability is like mine.
projects like these should be done on Saturday morning, so you have plenty of time to chase parts down if something goes wrong.
Just use an existing hose, and run it outside ..
watch letting it run down the driveway .. with water as hard as yours, the sediment could stain your driveway.



