98' Taurus 3.0, well maintained. The last couple of days, it has been squeaking pretty loud at start up, for about a minute or 2. Thought it was the belt, but its coming from inside the motor, sounds to be to head, on the opposite side of the belt. Well today the cel came on and its P0340, cam positioning sensor, I figured it had something to do with the cam... anyone have any ideas? The sensor may be rubbing on something inside, or is it possible the cam jumped a tooth... Id like to get some ideas before I start tearing the motor apart.

 

The synchronizer shaft is worn and chirping. It's on the driver's side of the engine, under the engine harness where the distributor would be on an older 3.0 liter. When you go to replace it, there's a special line up tool that fits on the old synchronizer only one way when it's lined up properly. Put a center punch mark on the old synchro and on the block for orientation, and with the tool installed and sitting flush on the old synchro, pull it out, stick the tool on the new synchro, transfer your scribe mark from the old synchro to the new and drop in back in just like you would a distributor.

Take extra care to be sure it's lined up properly, if not, the engine will idle funny and worst case, the injectors may fire when they shouldn't, potentially filling the cylinders with fuel and hydrolocking the engine. The PCM uses a reference from the synchronizer and the cam position sensor on top of the synchro to determine when to fire the injectors.

 

We need to start charging for your service here. Maybe some kind of subforum called 'ASK QUINTIN (for a nominal fee)'.

You're a huge asset around here Quintin... one of these days, I'll find you and buy you a beer - or fourteen.

-RP-

 

I will agree.

I'll buy a few rounds myself.

 

Wow thanks! I was figuring something major... So when I go to Napa, I ask for the synchronizer shaft? Never heard of that part lol

 

Went out on my girlfriend's car too. As soon as that was fixed, blew a head gasket.

Got the gasket replaced and blew the other one the next week!!

 

Cam synchronizer shaft, yes. You may want to pull the cam position sensor off the top of it first (held on with two 5.5mm bolts) and see if it's wiped out like khendrix's pictures. If so, then the cam position sensor usually gets killed and needs to be replaced as well.

The Ford # is F8DZ-12A362-AA, or Motorcraft number DA2089. Goes for about $130. You can rent the alignment tools from your friendly neighborhood parts store.

 

Blah, ain't nothing to worry about. Maybe someday I'll get to take y'all up on the cold ones.

 

I marked the sensor to the block, I didnt take the sensor off and mark it, I dont know what I was thinking... How do I get the timing correct now???

 

Wait, you marked the sensor (the thing that bolts to the top of the synchro)? Or your marked the synchronizer shaft to the block? When aligned properly (#1 cylinder on TDC), the arrow on the alignment tool (if you're using the tool) will point at around 1:00 to 1:30ish, the connector for the cam sensor should be in about the same area when it's sitting on the synchronizer.

 

Yea I just marked the sensor to the block, not the shaft... Which cylinder is #1, once I get it to tdc, I put the alignment tool on and it should set things right where they need to be?

 

Edit** Scratch that, brain fart. Lemme think about that for a minute.

 

Okay, spin the engine around to #1 TDC. The easiest way to set it up to #1 TDC is to pull #1 plug, use a broom straw in the cylinder and spin the engine until the straw comes up and stops. #1 is on the firewall side, first hole on the passenger's side. Install the alignment tool on the synchro and drop it in place. Put the arrow on the alignment tool at around 1:00, put it back together and see what happens. The arrow on the alignment tool has about 40 degrees of range it can be in for the engine to run (the arrow on the alignment tool can point from about 1:00 to 3:00 and the engine should run). Don't miss the oil pump driveshaft when you stick the synchronizer back in either, the synchronizer drives the oil pump; if you get it together, start the engine and it's knocking, you didn't get the oil pump driveshaft lined up right. Ask me how I know.

You got yourself in a real mess not marking the synchronizer before pulling it. Just make sure you've got the alignment tool sitting flush on the synchronizer. Spin the engine to #1 TDC, drop the synchro in place with the arrow pointing at #1. This'll get you in the ballpark, and the engine should run. It may still turn the check engine light on if it's not aligned properly, and the idle will surge. If so, then you'll have to bring the engine back up to #1 TDC, pull the synchro and move it one tooth at a time 'till you get it right. Don't try to adjust it like a distributor.

 

Ok, Ill try that... So it can run anywhere in that range, how will I get it set just right? Or will it not matter that much? Oh and the best place to get this alignment tool would be...? Napa, autozone?

 

It can run anywhere in that range, but it'll idle funny and probably stall a lot if you get it really wrong. Use the harness that goes to the sensor as a reference - the harness is relatively short and can't be stretched far, so you can't get it waaaaaay out of whack. About 1:00 should be good to go. Last time I had to borrow one of those tools, I found it at Autozone.