Roll pan istall question....
Originally Posted by vader716
Looking good Jamz...now don't lose your tempter this time and play bumber Derbie again...
Oh I picked up another Wii today, my kids and I were fighting too much over it.
Had to get in line at Target, they had 20 and sold out in 10 minutes....crazy!!

Oh I picked up another Wii today, my kids and I were fighting too much over it.
Had to get in line at Target, they had 20 and sold out in 10 minutes....crazy!!
Oh, and the roll pan looks bad Jamz.
Sled...
Originally Posted by Bartak1
What kinda 'pan is that Jamz?
[EDIT]
you prolly wanted to know that it's a fibergalss pan.
Last edited by jamzwayne; Feb 12, 2007 at 02:43 PM.
I dont know dude, before I had it painted I think I'd fill in the area on the sides smoth and have them blend the paint into the bed. It's going to cost a little more at the paint shop becasue tehy will have to blend almost to the front of the bed, and your going to have to leave your truck but I think it would be worth it.
For one White is the hardest color to match. Not only are ther eleventy kabillion shades of white, but white tints with time easier than any other color and depending on conditions the paint has been exposed to will tint it in eleventy kabillion different shades of that shade of white.....
What I am trying to say is that the roll pan will not match 100% if it's not blended, even if you use the same color and paint process as the code of your truck. It will always be a shade or 10 shades off. The only way to hide that is to blend it or fade it forward into the bed. So might as well fill and blend......
For one White is the hardest color to match. Not only are ther eleventy kabillion shades of white, but white tints with time easier than any other color and depending on conditions the paint has been exposed to will tint it in eleventy kabillion different shades of that shade of white.....
What I am trying to say is that the roll pan will not match 100% if it's not blended, even if you use the same color and paint process as the code of your truck. It will always be a shade or 10 shades off. The only way to hide that is to blend it or fade it forward into the bed. So might as well fill and blend......
Originally Posted by PSS-Mag
I dont know dude, before I had it painted I think I'd fill in the area on the sides smoth and have them blend the paint into the bed. It's going to cost a little more at the paint shop becasue tehy will have to blend almost to the front of the bed, and your going to have to leave your truck but I think it would be worth it.
For one White is the hardest color to match. Not only are ther eleventy kabillion shades of white, but white tints with time easier than any other color and depending on conditions the paint has been exposed to will tint it in eleventy kabillion different shades of that shade of white.....
What I am trying to say is that the roll pan will not match 100% if it's not blended, even if you use the same color and paint process as the code of your truck. It will always be a shade or 10 shades off. The only way to hide that is to blend it or fade it forward into the bed. So might as well fill and blend......
For one White is the hardest color to match. Not only are ther eleventy kabillion shades of white, but white tints with time easier than any other color and depending on conditions the paint has been exposed to will tint it in eleventy kabillion different shades of that shade of white.....
What I am trying to say is that the roll pan will not match 100% if it's not blended, even if you use the same color and paint process as the code of your truck. It will always be a shade or 10 shades off. The only way to hide that is to blend it or fade it forward into the bed. So might as well fill and blend......
Any ideas how to do it like that?
Originally Posted by jamzwayne
I was thinking about that, but you cant use body filler on the gaps can you? I would really like the pan to look like it's not seperate from the bed.
Any ideas how to do it like that?
Any ideas how to do it like that?
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
PSS-Mag has a good point about blending and fading. But if you do that, you might as well shave the whole tailgate too 

That's my goal.
I want to level it, shave the doors and tailgate, put some harley wheels on it and get a paint job....but, I only have so much money.

*Damn money shortage in the jamzwayne household.
There is a couple ways to do it.
You can do it yourself if you have patience and a garage your wife will let you work in or a few nice days. It makes alot of dust!!!!
The best way, is to sand the paint back on the bed a few inches all around the crack..... feather edge the paint so it is smooth when you run you hand over it, you should not feel the edge where the paint stops.....
Now take some fiberglass matting, you can get it at any auto store, I think wal mart even carrys it too. Have several pices cut to width and lay it on a piece of cardboard flat... spread some resin on it, (note use gloves). Then stick it over the crack, you have a few minutes to position it before the resin starts to dry. Then spread more resin on top, aplly a second strip of fiberglass on top of that resin and add more resin...... Each strip should be just a little bit larger than the one before it. If you fill the crack with resin then it should only take 2 or 3 layers of fiberglass mat.
Let dry then start grinding slowly, you will want it to be smooth with the bed. Use you hands to feel for high and low spots.... Once it is flat then glaze over it with fiberglass body filler to fill in the grinder marks. Then start sanding.......
You can do it yourself if you have patience and a garage your wife will let you work in or a few nice days. It makes alot of dust!!!!
The best way, is to sand the paint back on the bed a few inches all around the crack..... feather edge the paint so it is smooth when you run you hand over it, you should not feel the edge where the paint stops.....
Now take some fiberglass matting, you can get it at any auto store, I think wal mart even carrys it too. Have several pices cut to width and lay it on a piece of cardboard flat... spread some resin on it, (note use gloves). Then stick it over the crack, you have a few minutes to position it before the resin starts to dry. Then spread more resin on top, aplly a second strip of fiberglass on top of that resin and add more resin...... Each strip should be just a little bit larger than the one before it. If you fill the crack with resin then it should only take 2 or 3 layers of fiberglass mat.
Let dry then start grinding slowly, you will want it to be smooth with the bed. Use you hands to feel for high and low spots.... Once it is flat then glaze over it with fiberglass body filler to fill in the grinder marks. Then start sanding.......
Last edited by PSS-Mag; Feb 12, 2007 at 01:54 PM.
Originally Posted by PSS-Mag
There is a couple ways to do it.
You can do it yourself if you have patience and a garage your wife will let you work in or a few nice days. It makes alot of dust!!!!
The best way, is to sand the paint back on the bed a few inches all around the crack..... feather edge the paint so it is smooth when you run you hand over it, you should not feel the edge where the paint stops.....
Now take some fiberglass matting, you can get it at any auto store, I think wal mart even carrys it too. Have several pices cut to width and lay it on a piece of cardboard flat... spread some resin on it, (note use gloves). Then stick it over the crack, you have a few minutes to position it before the resin starts to dry. Then spread more resin on top, aplly a second strip of fiberglass on top of that resin and add more resin...... Each strip should be just a little bit larger than the one before it. If you fill the crack with resin then it should only take 2 or 3 layers of fiberglass mat.
Let dry then start grinding slowly, you will want it to be smooth with the bed. Use you hands to feel for high and low spots.... Once it is flat then glaze over it with fiberglass body filler to fill in the grinder marks. Then start sanding.......
You can do it yourself if you have patience and a garage your wife will let you work in or a few nice days. It makes alot of dust!!!!
The best way, is to sand the paint back on the bed a few inches all around the crack..... feather edge the paint so it is smooth when you run you hand over it, you should not feel the edge where the paint stops.....
Now take some fiberglass matting, you can get it at any auto store, I think wal mart even carrys it too. Have several pices cut to width and lay it on a piece of cardboard flat... spread some resin on it, (note use gloves). Then stick it over the crack, you have a few minutes to position it before the resin starts to dry. Then spread more resin on top, aplly a second strip of fiberglass on top of that resin and add more resin...... Each strip should be just a little bit larger than the one before it. If you fill the crack with resin then it should only take 2 or 3 layers of fiberglass mat.
Let dry then start grinding slowly, you will want it to be smooth with the bed. Use you hands to feel for high and low spots.... Once it is flat then glaze over it with fiberglass body filler to fill in the grinder marks. Then start sanding.......
I can prolly handle that, I just don't want to pay to have my whole bed painted.

Does that make me a cheap bastard?
Oh well, I guess a person has got to do what he has to do.
[EDIT]
Now that I think about it, that might be a great learning project. I might actually do that, and get it ready for paint and clear on my own. I know how to block sand (I have many hours of practice).
Something for me to ponder for the next couple/few weeks.
Last edited by jamzwayne; Feb 12, 2007 at 02:04 PM.
If you search Google I'm sure you'll find some step by steps instructions. It's really not hard, hardest part is the sanding...... Worse case scenario if you mess it all up (which is really hard to do) then you just grind it all out and start over.....
Originally Posted by PSS-Mag
If you search Google I'm sure you'll find some step by steps instructions. It's really not hard, hardest part is the sanding...... Worse case scenario if you mess it all up (which is really hard to do) then you just grind it all out and start over.....
That sounds about right.
When I was shaping the roll pan, I realized how easy fiberglass is to shape. Hell, even cutting the holes for my plate light was easy (thank you Dremel). I thought that was going to be a bisch, but actually very easy.
The hardest part about actually installing the pan was taping it on, and checking the fit to only remove it to adjust the fit...wash rinse and repeat.
I'm just a picky bastard. If it doesn't look like something Chip Foose would do, I'm not happy. Dont get me wrong, it looks "OK", but I want it to look more than just "OK".
Know what I mean?
Well you are your toughest critique I gurantee you that.
You can do it as good or better than Chip, the only difference is that chip knows how to cover up his mistakes. Thats a craftsman.
You will never get it "perfect" Chip doesnt ever get it "perfect" factory doesnt get it "perfect". no one can get it "perfect". The trick is knowing how much imprefection the paint will hide. Luckily white hides ALOT.....
You can do it as good or better than Chip, the only difference is that chip knows how to cover up his mistakes. Thats a craftsman.
You will never get it "perfect" Chip doesnt ever get it "perfect" factory doesnt get it "perfect". no one can get it "perfect". The trick is knowing how much imprefection the paint will hide. Luckily white hides ALOT.....
Originally Posted by Budha05STX
Looks good Jamz.
Since you're heading towards that "clean" look, peel that STX sticker off.
Since you're heading towards that "clean" look, peel that STX sticker off.

__________________
Jim
Jim
You are 100% correct Matt.
I am always doing something constructive everyday, I just choose whom to let in on it.
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
Absolutely, and lower it , please. It's nice to see you doing something constructive , Jamzy.



