Yea I welded up a custom steel frame out of hot roll square tubing, lag bolted to 4x6's to go with the steel door after I lost my temper and kicked mine in last summer. We were trying to go camping as we were getting in the truck I had to get in and shut the A/C off because it was having problems.

Till then I had always thought kicking a door in was just special effect set up on hollywood sets. I never dreamed it would be that easy. I haven't tried it again yet to know for sure, I suspect this time I'd have to kick the wall down. The hinge pins or hinge screws should be the 2 weakest spots now.

 

I've punched a hole in an interior doors years and years ago but never kicked one in...

 

Ohhh it's the Merc. 3.0, I didn't catch that in the first post.

Do him a favor and blow it up for him.
He'll thank you later when he gets a different engine.


Anyway, on to the task at hand,
I still say check the ground. It can have a good enough connection to carry a current but not enough to carry it under a load.

But how much, or has any of the safety been wired around yet? (AKA shift cut out switch, etc)

 

Ahhh....boat rewiring....I did some of mine not too long ago, what fun that was. I still have to conquer under the dash though...

 

As a matter of fact, I just finished trying to jumper everything... I took the batery cables out of the equation by using jumper cables going from battery terminals to starter for (+) and to the block ground with (-). No change. I jumpered past the factory circuit breaker. No change. I ran a hot wire straight to the ignition switch, and a ground to the dash ground wiring. Still get the voltage drop.

 

Put a ground straight from the batt. to one gauge, then hook that gauge up and see what happens. Jumper cables should reach from bat to under dash.

 

Actually, I was wrong. When I ran the cables from the battery straight to the dash wiring, all problems went away... So now I'm off to Radio Shack, for wire and wiring blocks... I don't like the way they tied the wires in together under the dash. They're all stripped back, balled up, soldered and electrical taped. Who wires something together like that? So, I'm gonna go ahead an do it right. Besides, he asked what I charged. I told him nothing, I don't charge for helping out friends... But he absolutely insisted, so I told him 1/3 of the going rate locally for marine labor. Turns out I'm make $20 an hour.

 

Beats mine, mine was just non insulated crimp connectors....

As I've rewired it as needed, then I use insulated connectors and heat shrink on all connections.

 

**Update**


Ok, all rewiring is complete. Getting vood voltage to everything. Now it won't fire. I've replace the rotor, cap, and electronic ignition component. I'm getting 12v to the coil, and 12v to the safety override component. I've got 12v coming out of the coil, but cannot get a spark off of the dist cap to save my life...