How to remove rust???

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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 01:25 PM
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KiCk aSs FX4's Avatar
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How to remove rust???

I am working on my 66 mustang and there are little bubbles that I have sanded down. Now I want to put some stuff over to prevent it from comming back. I have heard of por 15, rust-mort, and eastwood but which is the best? Anyone have experience with these?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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POR-15. Never used it but that's what I always here. I think Stacey David even recommended it.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 01:29 PM
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Por 15 is what all of the truck restore guys I know use.

It isn't casual either, it is all they swear by.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 01:29 PM
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I've only used POR-15, but have used it several times with good results. Just make sure if it will see sunlight you topcoat it...
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 01:42 PM
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How bad is the rust? Does it go all the way through the metal?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jamzwayne
How bad is the rust? Does it go all the way through the metal?
yes. It does in some parts so I will probably have to use some Bondo after I use the rust remover stuff
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by KiCk *** FX4
yes. It does in some parts so I will probably have to use some Bondo after I use the rust remover stuff

Let's hope Stacey David doesn't read this thread.

In a case like that, the proper procedure would be to replace the "bad" metal with new metal. Now, that may not be so easy to do, and I understand that, and I am not talking chit by any means here. I know from past experiences, that if you have rust in a specific area, if not properly dealt with, you will more then likely have rust issue in the future. It might take a few years, but there is as possibility that it will finish rusting through.

....Just a thought.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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Yeah if it is rusted bad it really needs to be replaced. You need to get a chipping hammer and tap the rusted area with the pointy end. If it is solid then it should be fine provided you treat it right. Sometimes it will feel solid to the tuch but the chipping hammer will pop right through it.

We use a chemical here called ChemPrime. We get it from Sherwin Williams I think. It is sold by the gallon and is a greenish liquid. You get all of the loose flaking rust off then spray it on. It converts the rust so that it will not continue to rust. It will acctually turn the existing rust black. You can then bondo and prime over it.

We used it once on the exposed bolts for a metal building. They were rusted really bad. Wire brushed them, sprayed them down and they sat unpainted for about 3 weeks in the rainy summer. When we finally got the rest of the building ready to paint the bolts had NO surface rust built up on them so this stuff converts it to the point where it won't rust again.

I really would suggest keeping the bondo to a minimal on a rebuild like that. Sheetmetal patches are about the easiest repair to make unless they are on a bodyline or curve. For straight panels a quick sheetmetal patch will work alot better.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Try to use as little bondo as possible. I know whenever I go to check out a vehicle thats been restored I bring a magnet with me, as well as a lot of collectors.

However, POR15 is where its at. But, if you do have spots that are completely rusted you need to fill them with another piece of metal. I know thats not what you want to hear but you need to do it right or not even bother doing it at all.

Trust me.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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POR15.com is with me. It's not cheap but you get what you pay for. Buy small cans of Por-15 paint because once you open one consider what you don't use as waste. You will se what I mean1 I have used Por-15 extensively on old car chassi's and other items. Don't plan on sanding this paint by hand. If you cover a bolt hole with paint you will have to drill it out. They also have a rust remover/destroyer.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 03:10 PM
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You dont want to know what I am going to do to this car. If I told you you would kill me . But to say the least I am just trying to restore it and sell it I have already brought the car to body shops and they have quoted me aroud $1500 to repair and I dont want to spend that kind of money. Im trying to make a profit off it and I cant spend that kind of money. The rust isnt THAT bad. There are small holes at most the size of an eraser on the end of a pencil. But right now bondo is going to be my best friend .

But anyway, you think por15 is the best solution? I have heard there are many products and steps por15 has. Which products do I get?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by KiCk *** FX4
You dont want to know what I am going to do to this car. If I told you you would kill me . But to say the least I am just trying to restore it and sell it I have already brought the car to body shops and they have quoted me aroud $1500 to repair and I dont want to spend that kind of money. Im trying to make a profit off it and I cant spend that kind of money. The rust isnt THAT bad. There are small holes at most the size of an eraser on the end of a pencil. But right now bondo is going to be my best friend .

But anyway, you think por15 is the best solution? I have heard there are many products and steps por15 has. Which products do I get?
Call or email their techs. They're very knowledgable. There is also a lot of valueable info on their website. http://por15.com/
 
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:49 PM
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Ever hear of a product called dyna glass, ( spelling)

It is fiberglass ( fiber strands and resin mix) that you mix and spread out on a thin flexable surface. Press the firber resin mat up against the quarter pannel , pull off the flexable backer, work it onto the metal to create the bond. It sands and takes bondo. I used this many years ago, works well to span small rust holes etc...
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Is there a store I can buy por15 or eastwood from? I want it now and I dont want to order it.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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You might find POR-15 but I wouldn't get excited.

Hey; try an auto paint store
 
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