My Lawn is Dying. Help
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From: Atlanta, GA
I really wonder about the grub thing sometimes. I know there are a ton of grubs under my grass, but they aren't killing it. I actually find them to be great free aerators alot like worms. I am actually in the process of killing my yard off to change from bermuda to fescue.
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From: Jersey shore
Originally Posted by UrbanCowboy
I'm doing 10 minutes per zone every day at 2am. hehe.
Going to start with 15-20 minutes three times a week.. I'm also going to deploy buckets to monitor how much water I'm putting out so I can adjust accordingly given the 6-8in root depth I should be shooting for.
Going to start with 15-20 minutes three times a week.. I'm also going to deploy buckets to monitor how much water I'm putting out so I can adjust accordingly given the 6-8in root depth I should be shooting for.
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From: Jersey shore
Originally Posted by 98Navi
I really wonder about the grub thing sometimes. I know there are a ton of grubs under my grass, but they aren't killing it. I actually find them to be great free aerators alot like worms. I am actually in the process of killing my yard off to change from bermuda to fescue.
Read about Fescues. There are many types that vary for disease control, blade width and different shades of green. I had a Fescue lawn many years ago but changed over to a bluegrass.
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From: Lost some where in the middle of the Ozark Mountains!
Could it be that it is getting more sun since you removed the crabapple tree?
Some plants including and especially grasses are tempermental about how much sun they get. The outer edges are still shaded till certain times in the morning and then again at a certain time in the evening by the fence as seen in the pics. Limiting the amount of sun that they get each day. The center appears to now be exposed to sun light pretty much from sun up to sun down. It also appears by the pics that the dead spot ends right at the shade line.
Now my question.
Why the heck do you want it to grow? Then you just have to mow the chit.
I never understood people spending money on fertilizers and watering to make it grow, then decide to spend gas and time to mow it. Wasn't it doing what you wanted it to anyway?
Kind of like man building a house to get out of the outside. Then dont like that so he puts in windows so he can see outside. Then don't like that so he puts in blinds.
Some plants including and especially grasses are tempermental about how much sun they get. The outer edges are still shaded till certain times in the morning and then again at a certain time in the evening by the fence as seen in the pics. Limiting the amount of sun that they get each day. The center appears to now be exposed to sun light pretty much from sun up to sun down. It also appears by the pics that the dead spot ends right at the shade line.
Now my question.
Why the heck do you want it to grow? Then you just have to mow the chit.
I never understood people spending money on fertilizers and watering to make it grow, then decide to spend gas and time to mow it. Wasn't it doing what you wanted it to anyway?
Kind of like man building a house to get out of the outside. Then dont like that so he puts in windows so he can see outside. Then don't like that so he puts in blinds.
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From: Central New Jersey
I vote for not enough water. You need to get the water down to the 6-8 inch depth. This takes 30-40 minutes several times a week. You can use a length of half inch copper pipe and push it into the ground to take a soil core sample, carefully push the soil out of the pipe and examine the soil for moisture to see if you are watering deep/long enough.
Treat for grubs in late June with Ortho Grub-X.
Jim
Treat for grubs in late June with Ortho Grub-X.
Jim
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From: South Jersey
Originally Posted by 6T6CPE
I have a pretty nice green bluegrass lawn. There are many variables to consider. What kind of grass seed and what are the soil conditions? In NJ you need to lime because bluegrass like sweet soil. I fertilize 5 times a year. I treat for grubs which will destroy a lawn. If you can roll your grass back like a carpet it was probably grubs. The heat of summer is stressful on lawns. I apply a fungicide every 2 weeks in the summer to prevent diseases. Fungicides are expensive. If you water by hose you are fighting a losing battle. You really need an underground irrigation system which is quite easy to install. You only need to water a few times a week but you must water heavily so the water gets down to the bottom of the roots which creates a strong root system. Watering lightly doesn't get to the root sytem, weakens the grass which will allow diseases, bugs and weeds to take over. I do not pretreat for weeds or crabgrass. I wait till they start growing and spray on the appropriate weed killer. Most need two applications a week apart. I don't use granular killers because they must stick to the weeds to work. With liquid you get total coverage. I also add a wetting agent to the chemicals. I have used various fertilizers and disease control chemicals over the years but I think Scotts have been by far the best. I use various sprayon weed killers. I rely on the chemical that the killer or disease control is made of for the liquids.
If you ground is rock solid you need to have it aerated by a machine that pulls plugs out of the ground. This is good for air and chemicals and the plugs will decay in a few weeks. I don't have a thatch problem but if it is heavy you need to have it dethatched and then bag your clippings for awhile. Have your soil tested. Watering is a biggie.
You can over do it and kill your grass with kindness. Scotts has a website you can register with and they email info to you year round what to do with your lawn, for your type grass in your area.
If you ground is rock solid you need to have it aerated by a machine that pulls plugs out of the ground. This is good for air and chemicals and the plugs will decay in a few weeks. I don't have a thatch problem but if it is heavy you need to have it dethatched and then bag your clippings for awhile. Have your soil tested. Watering is a biggie.
You can over do it and kill your grass with kindness. Scotts has a website you can register with and they email info to you year round what to do with your lawn, for your type grass in your area.
BREW
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From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Go pick or buy 10 dozen or more worms,(nightcrawlers are best) water the lawn well and release the worms during the late evening. They will aerate the lawn in no time, wait 2 weeks then lightly rake the dead areas (1"deep) apply lots of perennial grass seed. Spread some topsoil on top of the seed and cover area with burlap and continue watering, in about 10 days you will lift the burlap and see a new lawn growing. Once it is established put some Miracle Grow on it through a hose while watering. Do not cut the lawn until grass is 3-5" long then cut. It works trust me... If you don't thinks this works let me know and i will post pics of my lawn and then you shall believe...
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From: Jersey shore
Originally Posted by buckdropper
Go pick or buy 10 dozen or more worms,(nightcrawlers are best) water the lawn well and release the worms during the late evening. They will aerate the lawn in no time, wait 2 weeks then lightly rake the dead areas (1"deep) apply lots of perennial grass seed. Spread some topsoil on top of the seed and cover area with burlap and continue watering, in about 10 days you will lift the burlap and see a new lawn growing. Once it is established put some Miracle Grow on it through a hose while watering. Do not cut the lawn until grass is 3-5" long then cut. It works trust me... If you don't thinks this works let me know and i will post pics of my lawn and then you shall believe...
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From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
Originally Posted by 6T6CPE
Use straw instead of burlap and it decays pretty fast. Straw and not hay.
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From: Jersey shore
Originally Posted by BREWDUDE
Hey Mr. Fancy Lawn....why dont you come down to my place and fix my grass...it looks like crap right now and I hate it. My back yard is usually good for about 3 weeks and then turns into a friggen sand pit for the rest of the summer. I might go with Italian grass soon...aka: Concrete
BREW
BREW
Your job is to install underground sprinklers by the end of August. Apply Roundup continually until then to keep killing what you have. Then I will lend you my TroyBilt to rototill the soil to the depth of 6 to 8 inches. After that till in some soil additives to a depth of 2" that you get from the landfill relatively cheap. Rake the lawn out nice and level. Then rent a roller from Rental Country and roll your yard to smooth it out. It's a roller you fill with water and push or pull manually. Do not rent a steam roller. I say again. Do not rent a steam roller. Now spread a good high quality seed and starter fertilizer. Lightly rake the two into the ground. Go to a feed store for animals. Not ACME or Shoprite. Buy straw and not hay. Break apart the bale and lightly spread that over your newly seeded area. Lightly spray the area by hand with a hose and not the new underground irrigation. You want to keep the soil moist and not create puddles and wash away the seed. You will need to lightly spray the area several times a day. You will start to see the grass germinating in about 5-7 days. Continue watering by hand until the area fills in and then you can change over to the underground irrigation.
Let me know when you get to this point so I can give you more instructions.
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by BREWDUDE
Damn, UC you beat me to it. Im having the same problem with my front lawn. I bought some disease control / cure for the lawn. Miune haas actually turned a brownish grey color. Almost as if it was lit on fire. I need to get it green again..Soon. I hate looking at it.
Any Ideas anyone??
BREW
Any Ideas anyone??
BREW
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Jim
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by jamzwayne
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