All,

I am currently a F-150 owner who is looking at a deal to trade my 98 Ford for a 96 Chev Ext Cab, 2x4 Dually 454 gas motor truck. This Duelly truck is my dad's and he uses it to haul around a 1996 LANCE Model 8000 Squire on the back. That's one of those Big Truck campers. Truck is only used in summer and parked in the winter. 70,000 miles on it. He has a price of 16K for both.

My Ford is the 4.2 V6 with a 5speed manual, standard cab. Great little truck. No problems on it and has 81,000 miles and is my daily driver.

The deal is to give him my truck and then pay him the difference. Problem is, not sure what the value is for this Chevy. Blue Book and NADA arent even close. He thinks that his truck is worth around 9K and the camper is around 7K. Blue Book and NADA show my truck at 4,335.00. For his truck, I had to use the GMC 3500 and got a price of 7,780. Is this correct?
We both want to get a good deal here.

What do you Guys and Gals think that Chevy is worth besides the common boat anchor suggestion??

 

CrAz3D,
So you think that those figures are a rip off? Which truck? My ford or the Chev?

 

You're going to get a Grand National?

 

What's a Grand National?

 

You're old man might have a hard time finding someone to pay him that much of a premium over NADA for a 10-year-old truck......

 

ddellwo,
NADA shows it for 10,700. Blue book is what is above. NADA from what I understand is what you would pay for retail, like at a dealership, right? The Blue Book quotes are for a private party so the problem is which one to use?

 

Right, but do you think the Kelly figure is ok for that truck? I just don't want to inherit a problem child.

 

my advice is to stay away.

You're thinking "problem child" Your dad doesn't want to get hosed...

Unless you want to deal with that aggrivation, I'd stay away and find a truck from a neutral third party.

 

You are kidding right?

This is a Ford board but dang....even I respect the GNs....and my Stang still sits in front of my house.

 

Not to be mean, but swallow a bullett if you really don't know mang.

 

If all you are concerned about is paying the difference, I suggest that you use the same book to determine the "value" of each vehicle (so each should be "correct" or "off" by about the same amount for your market) then look at wholesale value, or retail value of both, and subtract the difference.

The "value" isn't as important this way as you are looking at the difference in the value, not the actual value itself, if you see what I mean.

Use wholesale against wholesale, or retail against retail, and you should be okay (and fair to both parties) if all you want to do is to determine the difference between the values of the vehicles...

The only way you could get cheated this way is to use the wholesale value for one against the retail value for the other. THAT is how dealers work, they sell you their vehicle at retail, and give you wholesale for your trade-in.

 

Good god, talk about overanalyzation.

Those books don't mean jack. THey are a guide, and a pretty **** poor one for most people who know anything about cars. Its just like baseball cards, the book gives you a generalization, but its only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

Take for example, the value of a 79 cj7. Probably about $200 in the book. In decent shape, about $5000 in real life. Books are guides, not bibles

 

Sure, they are only a guide, but you don't think that someone who asks something like this -

CrAz3D,
So you think that those figures are a rip off? Which truck? My ford or the Chev?

doesn't need SOME kind of a guide to go by?

The value of either vehicle is almost irrelevant, as long as you deternime the value of both in a similiar way, then you figure out the difference and work with that figure.

 

Also, the book tells you what the maximum is the bank will pay (or allow you to finance through them) for a particular vehicle given the age & mileage. That's what they are really for, and from there you try to negotiate the seller "down" to a realistic value for the vehicle.

Best thing you can do is use Kelley Blue book; www.kbb.com and go look at the trade in value of the vehicle, and asses it at best "fair" or less. No one will ever give you the "excellent" price.

Not knowing everything your dad's truck has on it, for trade in value, KBB shows the truck to be worth $4,800.00. We all know that if he took that truck to trade in, he MIGHT get $1,500 - $2,000 for it. So, I'd offer $5,500 (Since it's Dad). But, by the same token, KBB shows your truck to be worth $2,225, still leaving you $2,600 - $3,300 in the hole, but a dealer would likely only give you $1,000 - $1,500 for a similiar truck, in trade on a new one.

Unless you just love that ol' Chevy, I'd take that truck to a dealership, and get a brand new base model F-150 regular cab (They're selling 'em in Dallas for $11,888.00) with that $1,000 down, throw in TTL, you could have a brand new truck for like $189.00/month...

 

Wait, you're gonna try and get rid of a newer truck that gets better gas mileage and dump it for something older with ****tyier gas mileage? Isn't gas like $3.00/gal right now pretty much everywhere in the country with no end in sight? Not only that, do you NEED a dually. Are you really going to use that truck and trailer? I can't see getting yourself into debt if you don't need it. As was stated before, its your money and you can do what you want with it, but I think it'd be foolish.

Not to mention, any kind of deal involving money with family ALWAYS goes sour. That's the way it works.