I saw that, but I was inschool at the time and didn't have much time to look at it, I'm home now and will do so...

 

That diagram shows the TOB-300 as having a magneto ignition.
If that's true then run some 150 grit sandpaper lightly around the outside of the fly wheel to remove rust. Becareful not to scratch the magnets. Good chance that it may not be creating enough juice to fire the spark plug hot enough when under a load.
I dont envy you with this task. A small engine is more difficult to get started and running right after it's sat than a car engine is. IMO

 

It has sat for several years (probably 10) in my grandmother's garage...Ever since I cleaned out the carb and such, it will always fire right up, even with no gas in the tank, only the gas in the carb. I know that it is getting enough fuel, because I have flooeded it several times before after trying to start it so much after it poops out....

 

The problem is, that in a trash can or on a garden hose I can get anything to run. I can run a 6 cylinder and pull 2 plug wires off and it will still sit there and run forever I can also restrict the fuel to one or two carbs on a 6cyl and watch it sit there and run all day also....Hell for that matter I had one that sank, and when I got it up and running it took off on me, as in the RPMs went to WOT and beyond....I pulled every plug wire off and it still ran with no spark. The cylinders were so hot by this time that they were igniting the fuel. All I could do was pull the fuel line, stand back and wait til she ran out or blew up...that one ran out and shut down. My point it with no load ie: in the lake pushing the canoe, you are not working the motor, therefore it will run fine on land, because the fuel and spark demand is not that great. If I were to run the motor as i described with no plug wires on or no fuel, under a load, it would fall on its face in no time flat.


When you took the carb apart, did you pull the needle and seat out??if the tip of the needle or the seat are damaged, it wont run worth a damn. It may be worth pulling apart and cleaning again.

BREW

 

Does the engine have 'reed valves' in the intake? If you remove the carb., you will see them. Had an old 6hp air cooled 2 cycle outboard back in the 60's. The reed valves would get gunked up from sitting long periods and the engine would die out at full throttle when you put it in the water.

The reed valves are thin metal flaps in the intake. Just a thought....

 

Thin metal flap....there is metal flap that covers the air passage for the choke...but that's about all that I can think of at the moment. I'm thinking that a carb rebuilt or possibly even a new carb and some ignition improvements will get this thing running great.

 

OK..one last thought (well a couple) but looking at the manual, it seems there are no reeds, so not to worry. But a couple things that I might check as well...do you have the pet-coc k assy. in the fuel line? if so, double check to make sure its actually moving inside when you turn the little handle. If it snapped off, the handle would move freely, but the valve on the inside would not move at all. If its stuck halfway, that's your fuel restriction. The other thing I was thinking about is the muffler. If this thing has been sitting for 10 years in the garage I wonder if any mice got up in there and made a nest? If so, that would create way to much back pressure and kill the motor as well. I would pull that apart and check it if you haven't done so already.

OR...just put it in a box and send it to me. I'll fix it for ya.


BREW

 

BREW - don't tempt me with that offer...the petcoc k assembly works fine, it has already been checked, it opens 100%. I will have to check the muffler, that is a good idea, but the motor was kept 6ft in the air, so I'm not really sure how any mice could have gotten in there, but oh well, we'll see. I think I am going to have to order the carb rebuild kit, it is like $20, and the spark plug is a NGK BM6A or equivalent.

 

Well, I've seen mice crawl straight up a wall...them little buggers can get anywhere. Anyway, I think your on the right track, with the carb rebuild kit. Let me know if you need any help with anything.


BREW

 

I will, but with you being in Jersey, and me being in the STL, its kinda tough...I'd gladly send it to ya with the parts and such, but the shipping on that thing would probably kill me. Anyways, thanks for all the help guys...