overheating question
overheating question
this is placed in the general discussion because it is not about an f150. It is about a 73 mustang, I bought it about a month ago and now am getting to working on it. My problem is that the stupid thing keeps overheating. It has a 351 cleveland in it. So far I have replaced the heater core and thermostat. I have had the radiator flushed, and have personally flushed the block. It has fresh coolant in it mixed 50/50. The car overheats when at a stop in gear (automatic tranny). Ifyou take it out of gear, it will cool down. There is a copper washer under the thermostat that is present and in tact. I am open for suggestions.
Here is a wild guess. If it is "only" over heating when parked, like at a light etc. I would say it is your clutch fan. If it is not engaging then you don't really have much air flow over the motor or to pull in air from the outside.
When you are driving approx. 30 - 35mph or more you do NOT need any fan because the flow of air through the radiator is plently at that speed. When driving at very low speeds or stopped you NEED a fan working correctly, be it a clutch fan or direct drive (flex fan).
It very well may not be that, but that's the first place I would look. Try to spin your fan by hand (when car not running) it should be VERY hard to spin by hand, if you can move it at all. If it is pretty easy to move, spin then it is bad.
EDIT: I should have added just because you see it spinning when the car is running and feel some air does NOT mean it is working correctly. Clutch fan's will basically free spin when not engaged. If it is only free spinning because it is not working properly does NOT mean it will pull the air flow needed to keep the water cool.
When you are driving approx. 30 - 35mph or more you do NOT need any fan because the flow of air through the radiator is plently at that speed. When driving at very low speeds or stopped you NEED a fan working correctly, be it a clutch fan or direct drive (flex fan).
It very well may not be that, but that's the first place I would look. Try to spin your fan by hand (when car not running) it should be VERY hard to spin by hand, if you can move it at all. If it is pretty easy to move, spin then it is bad.
EDIT: I should have added just because you see it spinning when the car is running and feel some air does NOT mean it is working correctly. Clutch fan's will basically free spin when not engaged. If it is only free spinning because it is not working properly does NOT mean it will pull the air flow needed to keep the water cool.
Last edited by 01 XLT Sport; May 6, 2003 at 07:49 AM.
Here is a great forum on vintage mustangs. I don't post much as I am not currently working on my 65 coupe project but the people there are great
http://www.vintage-mustang.com/
Good luck
Stan
http://www.vintage-mustang.com/
Good luck
Stan
Also check for proper timing and collapsed radiator hoses.
The radiator could also be plugged up. If it is, you will have to have a radiator shop disassemble it and rod it out, flushing it is only good for preventing plugging, it won't do much once its plugged up.
Make sure the radiator (and A/C condenser if you have one) are not plugged up with leaves and similar debris.
(This is all assuming the clutch fan checks out like the other guys suggested) If the clutch fan looks like its been leaking oil, its probibly bad.
The radiator could also be plugged up. If it is, you will have to have a radiator shop disassemble it and rod it out, flushing it is only good for preventing plugging, it won't do much once its plugged up.
Make sure the radiator (and A/C condenser if you have one) are not plugged up with leaves and similar debris.
(This is all assuming the clutch fan checks out like the other guys suggested) If the clutch fan looks like its been leaking oil, its probibly bad.
than you for the replys, I checked the fan clutch and it was missing, solid mount fan
, I should have mentioned it. I was talking to some co-workers today, and they mentioned that I only use the car at night. I am thinking that it is a gauge problem. I checked temps (now that I have the proper tool) and I have good heat distrubitan across the radiator, and 204 F at the thermostat. And I feel foolish but when I turn off the headlights, my temp goes down. same when I let off the brake. I have an eletrical problem. I would never let the car boil over for fear of hurting the head gaskets.
, I should have mentioned it. I was talking to some co-workers today, and they mentioned that I only use the car at night. I am thinking that it is a gauge problem. I checked temps (now that I have the proper tool) and I have good heat distrubitan across the radiator, and 204 F at the thermostat. And I feel foolish but when I turn off the headlights, my temp goes down. same when I let off the brake. I have an eletrical problem. I would never let the car boil over for fear of hurting the head gaskets.
Do NOT feel foolish at least you found the source of the problem and took precautions so that it did not overheat and cause major damage.
It is great it is not something major that would cost alot of money to repair or fix, or worse where maybe you did have a problem and ignored it and then cause major damage, that would be foolish.
It is great it is not something major that would cost alot of money to repair or fix, or worse where maybe you did have a problem and ignored it and then cause major damage, that would be foolish.
Trending Topics
Poor grounds (engine, body, instrument panel) or a bad voltage regulator on the back of the instrument panel can cause erratic gauge readings.
A good clue to this is if all the guages move together when you turn the lights on. (gas, oil, temp, etc.)
I'd check the alternator voltage too, it should be around 13.8 to 14.2 volts at all engine speeds.
A good clue to this is if all the guages move together when you turn the lights on. (gas, oil, temp, etc.)
I'd check the alternator voltage too, it should be around 13.8 to 14.2 volts at all engine speeds.
As far as the over heating problems, if all of the mechanical & the electrical problems are taken care of,try this suggestion.There is a product sold by Redline Oil Company called WATERWETTER. It is added to the cooling system, lowers the temperature up to 20 degrees. Have used this product multiple times with great results. Their website is www.redlineoil.com , they list distributors by states. I used Mans Motorsports in B'ham. Very nice people, really know their stuff.:thumbsup:
yeah, there was only an eletrical problem. The regulator at the back of the cluster I assume. I am not so concerned anymore now that I know. I will rewire next winter. I am liking the 20 fuse ezwiring kit, it gives lots of options at a good deal. Thanks for all the help, you people are way better then the people at stangnet.


