Class III/IV Tow Package, pre 2001?
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Class III/IV Tow Package, pre 2001?
Hi all-
I hope someone will know the answer to my questions, and I'm definitely up for advice!
1. What's the difference between a Class III and a Class IV towing package?
2. I know it's standard on 2001 and newer Eddie Bauer Expeditions, is a Class IV available on any older models? (Read: 97, 98, 99 models are the only ones I can afford!)
3. A 4x2 has 800# more towing capacity than a 4x4, does this present a problem to anyone; to have a 4x2 and tow?
I'll be towing a 2 horse slant trailer, so my average tow weight will be anywhere between 6000 - 7000 when fully loaded with 2 horses, tack, hay, water, etc.
My ideal Expedition would be an Eddie Bauer (which has the 5.4L Triton V8 engine standard, right?) with a class IV towing package. A bonus would be all the little nice things, like heated seats.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Julie
I hope someone will know the answer to my questions, and I'm definitely up for advice!
1. What's the difference between a Class III and a Class IV towing package?
2. I know it's standard on 2001 and newer Eddie Bauer Expeditions, is a Class IV available on any older models? (Read: 97, 98, 99 models are the only ones I can afford!)
3. A 4x2 has 800# more towing capacity than a 4x4, does this present a problem to anyone; to have a 4x2 and tow?
I'll be towing a 2 horse slant trailer, so my average tow weight will be anywhere between 6000 - 7000 when fully loaded with 2 horses, tack, hay, water, etc.
My ideal Expedition would be an Eddie Bauer (which has the 5.4L Triton V8 engine standard, right?) with a class IV towing package. A bonus would be all the little nice things, like heated seats.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Julie
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Northwest
The difference between the hitches are the tow capacities. I have listed below the capacity of each type of hitch.
Class I 2,000 WT Carrying, 200 Max Tongue WT
Class II 3,500 WT Carrying, 300 Max Tongue WT
Class III 6,000 WT Distributing, 600 Max Tongue WT, 3,500 WT Carrying, 300 Max Tongue Weight
Class IV 10,000 WT Distributing, 1,000 Max Tongue WT, 5,000 WT Carrying, 500 Max Tongue Weight
Class V Heavy Duty 12,000 WT Distributing, 1,200 Max Tongue WT, 8,000 WT Carrying, 800 Max Tongue Weight
If the vehicle you are looking to buy only has a class III hitch, then you can have it removed and have a class IV put on to increase your towing capacity. It sounds like this is what would work best for what you want to do. Other things you might want to consider is if the vehicle has a transmission cooler. Thiis can be added on if it doesn't, but it would definitely be necessary for the load you will be carrying.
The 2wd has a little higher towing capacity because the vehicle weighs a little less than a 4wd version. The benefit of having 4wd to pull out of tough places usually warrants going with a 4wd though. Good luck in your purchase, but you are definitely looking in the right direction if you are considering an Expedition.
Class I 2,000 WT Carrying, 200 Max Tongue WT
Class II 3,500 WT Carrying, 300 Max Tongue WT
Class III 6,000 WT Distributing, 600 Max Tongue WT, 3,500 WT Carrying, 300 Max Tongue Weight
Class IV 10,000 WT Distributing, 1,000 Max Tongue WT, 5,000 WT Carrying, 500 Max Tongue Weight
Class V Heavy Duty 12,000 WT Distributing, 1,200 Max Tongue WT, 8,000 WT Carrying, 800 Max Tongue Weight
If the vehicle you are looking to buy only has a class III hitch, then you can have it removed and have a class IV put on to increase your towing capacity. It sounds like this is what would work best for what you want to do. Other things you might want to consider is if the vehicle has a transmission cooler. Thiis can be added on if it doesn't, but it would definitely be necessary for the load you will be carrying.
The 2wd has a little higher towing capacity because the vehicle weighs a little less than a 4wd version. The benefit of having 4wd to pull out of tough places usually warrants going with a 4wd though. Good luck in your purchase, but you are definitely looking in the right direction if you are considering an Expedition.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: DFW, Texas
I've got a 2000 and the receiver that came on them prior to 2002 was a class III. You can't increase your towing capacity. You can however, increase how you tow with the equipment you tow with.
Mine stock is rated for 7800#. It's still rated for 7800#. The class III was rated for 5000 carrying weight (straight hook up and tow) and up to 8000# with weight distributing.
I swapped out my class II for a Putnam class IV simply to have a rater receiver that would handle what I needed to tow. It's rated at 8000# carrying weight. That being said, I tow a boat on a tandem axle trailer. You can't get a better, more balanced set up that a boat generally. It I were towing a travel trailer, I wouldn't exceed 6000# (I'm guessing) withouth weight distributing equipment.
I just wanted to have all of the equipmentrated for at least 7500# so that I could tow my boat (about 7500-7600# max) without fear of "issues" becasue I was towing with equipement that was technically not rate dfor wat I was towing. Besides, things like ball mounts and hitch ***** can and do snap if over rated capacity.
So, you shouldn't have any problem with a '97-'99 as long as you get the right truck. I would suggest a '99 with a 5.4ltr and 3.55 rear and tow package if you can find one. 3.31 was standard until '01 and 3.55 was not too common until maybe 2000. I've got a 3.55 and I tow great. I've done a few things that help a lot though. (suspension too)
Mine stock is rated for 7800#. It's still rated for 7800#. The class III was rated for 5000 carrying weight (straight hook up and tow) and up to 8000# with weight distributing.
I swapped out my class II for a Putnam class IV simply to have a rater receiver that would handle what I needed to tow. It's rated at 8000# carrying weight. That being said, I tow a boat on a tandem axle trailer. You can't get a better, more balanced set up that a boat generally. It I were towing a travel trailer, I wouldn't exceed 6000# (I'm guessing) withouth weight distributing equipment.
I just wanted to have all of the equipmentrated for at least 7500# so that I could tow my boat (about 7500-7600# max) without fear of "issues" becasue I was towing with equipement that was technically not rate dfor wat I was towing. Besides, things like ball mounts and hitch ***** can and do snap if over rated capacity.
So, you shouldn't have any problem with a '97-'99 as long as you get the right truck. I would suggest a '99 with a 5.4ltr and 3.55 rear and tow package if you can find one. 3.31 was standard until '01 and 3.55 was not too common until maybe 2000. I've got a 3.55 and I tow great. I've done a few things that help a lot though. (suspension too)
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From: Motown
I've got a 2 wheel drive 2000 Expy with trailer tow package. It has the rear load leveling suspension along with a receiver rated at 500lb tongue weight-5000lb trailer weight. With load distribution I can tow 8850lbs and 885 tongue weight. The gears are 3.73 in the rear. I tow my Lightning on a car hauler that weighs around 7000lbs total with no problem with the weight distributing equipment.
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From: North of Dallas, South of Frisco
5.4L not standard on the EB Expy-
FYI-
Yes- The 4x2 can tow more. 4x4 would be a better choice if you find yourself towing on less than improved roads, and in bad weather.
The Eddie Bauer, contrary to popular belief, doesn't come with the 5.4 standard. Not even the 2003's.... If teh 5.4 is a must, I'd pop the hood, and make sure....
My 4.6 has never failed me, but I was concerned about it when towing my 4,000 + lb trailer, along with a good 1,100 lbs in teh vehicle, but she never missed a beat, 70 - 80 MPH from Ferriday, Louisiana to Plano, TX. (408 fully loaded miles, 612 with the trailer behind me.) No problems.
You'd be pulling about 3,000# more, so maybe the 5.4 is a must...
Keep in mind they only had 230 HP prior to 1999 (10 more then the 4.6 of the same years) and 2 less than a 2000 or newer Expy w/4.6L.
The 5.4L always had a torque advantage, however, in the 1997 - 1998 series, they had approximatly 320 lb./ft. Now they rate 350, whereas the 4.6L rates 291 lb/ft.
7,000 lbs is a lot of weight- Every considered an F-250 Crew cab, with a diesel & camper shell? I doubt that you'd know you had a trailer back there with that beast!
Yes- The 4x2 can tow more. 4x4 would be a better choice if you find yourself towing on less than improved roads, and in bad weather.
The Eddie Bauer, contrary to popular belief, doesn't come with the 5.4 standard. Not even the 2003's.... If teh 5.4 is a must, I'd pop the hood, and make sure....
My 4.6 has never failed me, but I was concerned about it when towing my 4,000 + lb trailer, along with a good 1,100 lbs in teh vehicle, but she never missed a beat, 70 - 80 MPH from Ferriday, Louisiana to Plano, TX. (408 fully loaded miles, 612 with the trailer behind me.) No problems.
You'd be pulling about 3,000# more, so maybe the 5.4 is a must...
Keep in mind they only had 230 HP prior to 1999 (10 more then the 4.6 of the same years) and 2 less than a 2000 or newer Expy w/4.6L.
The 5.4L always had a torque advantage, however, in the 1997 - 1998 series, they had approximatly 320 lb./ft. Now they rate 350, whereas the 4.6L rates 291 lb/ft.
7,000 lbs is a lot of weight- Every considered an F-250 Crew cab, with a diesel & camper shell? I doubt that you'd know you had a trailer back there with that beast!
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Virginia
I would recommend the 5.4. with a load leveling suspension, and 16 inch rims (give you a little more towing power) but it may be hard to find in the EB edition. Most have 17 inch rims, which reduce your powersome (but not capability wise).
The 97-98 (maybe 99?) can be found with a limited slip 3.73's while the later models (with the added hp and trq) can only be found as high as 3.55's (unless they have the high altitude package-which you don't want if you live near sea level).
4x4 vs 4x2 may be your biggest decision since the 4x2 is significantly lighter. Also, if you tow a lot, and want more power, a 4x2 gear swap will be a lot cheaper than a 4x4. Good luck!
The 97-98 (maybe 99?) can be found with a limited slip 3.73's while the later models (with the added hp and trq) can only be found as high as 3.55's (unless they have the high altitude package-which you don't want if you live near sea level).
4x4 vs 4x2 may be your biggest decision since the 4x2 is significantly lighter. Also, if you tow a lot, and want more power, a 4x2 gear swap will be a lot cheaper than a 4x4. Good luck!
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Virginia
Originally posted by MiamiDave
1. I would recommend the 5.4. with a load leveling suspension, and 16 inch rims (give you a little more towing power) but it may be hard to find in the EB edition. Most have 17 inch rims, which reduce your powersome (but not capability wise).
2. The 97-98 (maybe 99?) can be found with a limited slip 3.73's while the later models (with the added hp and trq) can only be found as high as 3.55's (unless they have the high altitude package-which you don't want if you live near sea level).
3. 4x4 vs 4x2 may be your biggest decision since the 4x2 is significantly lighter. Also, if you tow a lot, and want more power, a 4x2 gear swap will be a lot cheaper than a 4x4. Good luck!
1. I would recommend the 5.4. with a load leveling suspension, and 16 inch rims (give you a little more towing power) but it may be hard to find in the EB edition. Most have 17 inch rims, which reduce your powersome (but not capability wise).
2. The 97-98 (maybe 99?) can be found with a limited slip 3.73's while the later models (with the added hp and trq) can only be found as high as 3.55's (unless they have the high altitude package-which you don't want if you live near sea level).
3. 4x4 vs 4x2 may be your biggest decision since the 4x2 is significantly lighter. Also, if you tow a lot, and want more power, a 4x2 gear swap will be a lot cheaper than a 4x4. Good luck!
2. My 99 has the 260HP PI engine and 3.73 LS rear end, there aren't many used Expys with 3.73 Limited Slip becuase prior to the new '03 models, it was a $285 (approx) option. Many new car dealers are hard pressed to order options that many people will never 'see' when comparing prices bettween dealers.
3. Yep, a 2WD Expy is cheaper to buy, insure, maintain and has ride & handling advantages as well. BUT if you do go 2WD DEMAND the Limited Slip rear end as one spinning wheel is no good. You may also consider that two spinning wheels aren't much better if your horse show parking is a muddy mess that used to be a field. I have had my 2WD in some muddy spots while towing me & my budds dirt bikes with no problems, but then the dirt bike trailer with bikes is no where near as heavy as a loaded horse trailer.
AND MAKE SURE to get the 5.4L, thats a heavy load your planing for and you'll need the extra torque
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From: DFW, Texas
FYI, in 2000 the EB 2 wheel drive (17" wheels) with tow package, 5.4 and 3.55 had the highest tow rating of 7800#. An equivilant with 16" was less. Larger wheel lower profile thus more stability maybe??
I have had absolutly no problem with mine. I do have LS rear and I would agree that's a must. I also agree that if you'll be pulling the trailer around pens etc. and it may be real muddy and slick, a 4x4 would be best, but has a lower tow rating. I finally for the first time spun a wheel pulling my boat up a steep, wet, slick and slimy ramp. I got a little aggressive and one wheel spun about 2 times, I backed off and kept going without a problem.
I almost pffered to help a Tahoe pull their boat out. It had an open diff yet once it started to spin, it didn't have enough power to keep spining, it just sat there straining. I backed in and pulled miine out right next to them without a problem. It was almost funny. It was a new boat and I think they overestimated their tow vehicle.
I have had absolutly no problem with mine. I do have LS rear and I would agree that's a must. I also agree that if you'll be pulling the trailer around pens etc. and it may be real muddy and slick, a 4x4 would be best, but has a lower tow rating. I finally for the first time spun a wheel pulling my boat up a steep, wet, slick and slimy ramp. I got a little aggressive and one wheel spun about 2 times, I backed off and kept going without a problem.
I almost pffered to help a Tahoe pull their boat out. It had an open diff yet once it started to spin, it didn't have enough power to keep spining, it just sat there straining. I backed in and pulled miine out right next to them without a problem. It was almost funny. It was a new boat and I think they overestimated their tow vehicle.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: North of Dallas, South of Frisco
That wasn't almost funny, that was funny.
I can close my eyes and imagine the look on their faces as you backed in with your Expedition, which even w/the 5.4L is not as strong as a Tahoe; and pulled your boat right out, while they're stuck....
Nice boat by the way? A Lake Lewisville regular, I'm assuming.
My friend is looking into getting a nice boat like that- he went looking, and let's ust say, he could buy two Navigators, with all the trimmings for what that boat costed... Whew!
Getting back to the truck though, I guess gearing and skill can make up for a horsepower disadvantage...
PS- What does that Superchip do for you, as well as the AIRRAID intake? As far as engine & Drive train go, I'm stock except for a K&N air filter.
I can close my eyes and imagine the look on their faces as you backed in with your Expedition, which even w/the 5.4L is not as strong as a Tahoe; and pulled your boat right out, while they're stuck....
Nice boat by the way? A Lake Lewisville regular, I'm assuming.
My friend is looking into getting a nice boat like that- he went looking, and let's ust say, he could buy two Navigators, with all the trimmings for what that boat costed... Whew!
Getting back to the truck though, I guess gearing and skill can make up for a horsepower disadvantage...
PS- What does that Superchip do for you, as well as the AIRRAID intake? As far as engine & Drive train go, I'm stock except for a K&N air filter.
Last edited by Bighersh; Aug 9, 2002 at 07:59 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: DFW, Texas
Thing is, many Tahoe's are geared higher, like 3.73's. The 5.4 actualy has usable power. GM's are higher rated as far as HP but HP doesn't move a load plus they peak at a much higher RPM.
The chip, Airaid and exhaust are great. Mix in the shift kit and I love driving thins thing even though it's almost 3 years old. More guts and I can get better MPG. On a recent road trip with the boat loaded to the gills, another family was also towing but their boat is close to 1000# lighter. However, they also had a '98 Expy. I can run about as fast as I want although I don't lkike getting more than 75 or so towing. On this trip I ran 70-75 part of the way but 65-70 is more on what I likke to call the high end. They couldn't run more than 65-68 before they started loosing hold of the boat. It would start walking back and forth.
I came home sitting righ on 11 MPG while they barely got 9. This thing is just much more drivable.
I did a short road trip for business recently and had 2 co-workers with me. One has a new Camero SS 6 spd he keeps in as a garage car. A couple of times I got on it to get up on a frwy etc. It blew him away! He was loving the way it sounded, and the way he got held into the back seat especaily when it shifted and gives you that little smack in the butt. It's fun, and so far, 44k trouble free miles!
Oh, and yes, we hang out on Lewisville quite a bit. It's close and easy. Otherwise we go up to Lake Murray (beautiful lake) or Texoma etc.
The chip, Airaid and exhaust are great. Mix in the shift kit and I love driving thins thing even though it's almost 3 years old. More guts and I can get better MPG. On a recent road trip with the boat loaded to the gills, another family was also towing but their boat is close to 1000# lighter. However, they also had a '98 Expy. I can run about as fast as I want although I don't lkike getting more than 75 or so towing. On this trip I ran 70-75 part of the way but 65-70 is more on what I likke to call the high end. They couldn't run more than 65-68 before they started loosing hold of the boat. It would start walking back and forth.
I came home sitting righ on 11 MPG while they barely got 9. This thing is just much more drivable.
I did a short road trip for business recently and had 2 co-workers with me. One has a new Camero SS 6 spd he keeps in as a garage car. A couple of times I got on it to get up on a frwy etc. It blew him away! He was loving the way it sounded, and the way he got held into the back seat especaily when it shifted and gives you that little smack in the butt. It's fun, and so far, 44k trouble free miles!
Oh, and yes, we hang out on Lewisville quite a bit. It's close and easy. Otherwise we go up to Lake Murray (beautiful lake) or Texoma etc.
Last edited by FamilyRide; Aug 9, 2002 at 10:03 PM.
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First of all, thanks for the overwhelming response; you’ve spawned several more questions in my mind, however! I hope you don’t mind, you all seem to be the experts around here, and I certainly appreciate your discussing and explaining these things to me.
Thanks for listing the different tow capacities. How is a tongue weight defined? I’m sure that’s something I’d find listed as part of my trailer’s specs, right? So, really, the two classes we’re dealing with are:
<<Class III 6,000 WT Distributing, 600 Max Tongue WT, 3,500 WT Carrying, 300 Max Tongue Weight
Class IV 10,000 WT Distributing, 1,000 Max Tongue WT, 5,000 WT Carrying, 500 Max Tongue Weight >>
A. Could anyone break this down for me? What’s the difference between carrying and distributing WT, and max tongue WT and max tongue weight?
<<The 2wd has a little higher towing capacity because the vehicle weighs a little less than a 4wd version. >>
That’s what I thought, cool. (I knew it had more capacity, but that was my guess as to *why.*) I’ve decided upon a 4x2 for this reason, and am quite confident that I’m not going to be towing during inclement weather or muddy conditions. Show season is during the sunny months, fortunately! (And I live in California, so the season is a tad longer than the other parts of the country.
<<{…I've got a 2000….} Mine stock is rated for 7800#. It's still rated for 7800#. The class III was rated for 5000 carrying weight (straight hook up and tow) and up to 8000# with weight distributing. >>
My question here may be answered with an answer to the above (A.)
B. Can you explain the diff betw carrying weight and weight distributing?
<< I swapped out my class II for a Putnam class IV simply to have a rater receiver that would handle what I needed to tow. It's rated at 8000# carrying weight.>>
C. I imagine I’d need a weight distributing hitch for pulling a horse trailer, right? I definitely don’t want to tow with anything rated for less than my load, that’d be my worst nightmare. My horse is my pride and joy (equate how you all feel about your Expy’s, and there you have it!) and I’d never forgive myself if I did something stupid while hauling like not having a strong enough hitch!
<<I would suggest a '99 with a 5.4ltr and 3.55 rear and tow package if you can find one. 3.31 was standard until '01 and 3.55 was not too common until maybe 2000.>>
D. What’s the axle ratio actually do? Why a 3.55?
<<I've got a 2 wheel drive 2000 Expy with trailer tow package. It has the rear load leveling suspension along with a receiver rated at 500lb tongue weight-5000lb trailer weight. With load distribution I can tow 8850lbs and 885 tongue weight. The gears are 3.73 in the rear.>>
E. Wait is the 3.73 you axle ratio? I’m getting a bit lost here…
<<Keep in mind they only had 230 HP prior to 1999 (10 more then the 4.6 of the same years) and 2 less than a 2000 or newer Expy w/4.6L.
The 5.4L always had a torque advantage, however, in the 1997 - 1998 series, they had approximatly 320 lb./ft. Now they rate 350, whereas the 4.6L rates 291 lb/ft.>>
F. Getting a little more lost here; how much difference does it make? I really can’t afford any newer than a 99 at the moment, but am in a position where a new car is a must shortly…
<<7,000 lbs is a lot of weight- Every considered an F-250 Crew cab, with a diesel & camper shell? I doubt that you'd know you had a trailer back there with that beast!>>
G. Don’t forget, I’m a girl! Just kidding. I did consider it for quite a while, but realized that there are 350 days a year when I’m not hauling, and I have to commute, so I want the convenience of a car for those days.
<<I would recommend the 5.4. with a load leveling suspension, and 16 inch rims (give you a little more towing power) but it may be hard to find in the EB edition. >>
H. That’s what I’m going for; does the load leveling suspension come as part of a tow package?
<<The 97-98 (maybe 99?) can be found with a limited slip 3.73's while the later models (with the added hp and trq) can only be found as high as 3.55's >>
I. Oh, 3.73 is the differential…okay, what is that, again? (Clearly I’m not ashamed to ask questions, right? I’d rather look stupid now than stupid when I’m hauling!)
<<3. Yep, a 2WD Expy is cheaper to buy, insure, maintain and has ride & handling advantages as well. BUT if you do go 2WD DEMAND the Limited Slip rear end as one spinning wheel is no good.>>
I. So, how do I ensure that I have the right differential (I’m assuming higher is better,) limited slip, class IV tow (I think I’ll end up with a III and need to change it out…) Any markings anywhere? I’m likely going to be getting this via a smaller dealer who goes to auctions. He’s guaranteeing it for me, so the more specific I get, (the crazier I’ll make him, no, kidding,) the better of a truck he’ll get.
<<AND MAKE SURE to get the 5.4L, thats a heavy load your planing for and you'll need the extra torque>>
J. I will.
MY HORSE AND I SAY A MILLION THANKS!!
Julie (and Sinatra)
Thanks for listing the different tow capacities. How is a tongue weight defined? I’m sure that’s something I’d find listed as part of my trailer’s specs, right? So, really, the two classes we’re dealing with are:
<<Class III 6,000 WT Distributing, 600 Max Tongue WT, 3,500 WT Carrying, 300 Max Tongue Weight
Class IV 10,000 WT Distributing, 1,000 Max Tongue WT, 5,000 WT Carrying, 500 Max Tongue Weight >>
A. Could anyone break this down for me? What’s the difference between carrying and distributing WT, and max tongue WT and max tongue weight?
<<The 2wd has a little higher towing capacity because the vehicle weighs a little less than a 4wd version. >>
That’s what I thought, cool. (I knew it had more capacity, but that was my guess as to *why.*) I’ve decided upon a 4x2 for this reason, and am quite confident that I’m not going to be towing during inclement weather or muddy conditions. Show season is during the sunny months, fortunately! (And I live in California, so the season is a tad longer than the other parts of the country.
<<{…I've got a 2000….} Mine stock is rated for 7800#. It's still rated for 7800#. The class III was rated for 5000 carrying weight (straight hook up and tow) and up to 8000# with weight distributing. >>
My question here may be answered with an answer to the above (A.)
B. Can you explain the diff betw carrying weight and weight distributing?
<< I swapped out my class II for a Putnam class IV simply to have a rater receiver that would handle what I needed to tow. It's rated at 8000# carrying weight.>>
C. I imagine I’d need a weight distributing hitch for pulling a horse trailer, right? I definitely don’t want to tow with anything rated for less than my load, that’d be my worst nightmare. My horse is my pride and joy (equate how you all feel about your Expy’s, and there you have it!) and I’d never forgive myself if I did something stupid while hauling like not having a strong enough hitch!
<<I would suggest a '99 with a 5.4ltr and 3.55 rear and tow package if you can find one. 3.31 was standard until '01 and 3.55 was not too common until maybe 2000.>>
D. What’s the axle ratio actually do? Why a 3.55?
<<I've got a 2 wheel drive 2000 Expy with trailer tow package. It has the rear load leveling suspension along with a receiver rated at 500lb tongue weight-5000lb trailer weight. With load distribution I can tow 8850lbs and 885 tongue weight. The gears are 3.73 in the rear.>>
E. Wait is the 3.73 you axle ratio? I’m getting a bit lost here…
<<Keep in mind they only had 230 HP prior to 1999 (10 more then the 4.6 of the same years) and 2 less than a 2000 or newer Expy w/4.6L.
The 5.4L always had a torque advantage, however, in the 1997 - 1998 series, they had approximatly 320 lb./ft. Now they rate 350, whereas the 4.6L rates 291 lb/ft.>>
F. Getting a little more lost here; how much difference does it make? I really can’t afford any newer than a 99 at the moment, but am in a position where a new car is a must shortly…
<<7,000 lbs is a lot of weight- Every considered an F-250 Crew cab, with a diesel & camper shell? I doubt that you'd know you had a trailer back there with that beast!>>
G. Don’t forget, I’m a girl!
Just kidding. I did consider it for quite a while, but realized that there are 350 days a year when I’m not hauling, and I have to commute, so I want the convenience of a car for those days. <<I would recommend the 5.4. with a load leveling suspension, and 16 inch rims (give you a little more towing power) but it may be hard to find in the EB edition. >>
H. That’s what I’m going for; does the load leveling suspension come as part of a tow package?
<<The 97-98 (maybe 99?) can be found with a limited slip 3.73's while the later models (with the added hp and trq) can only be found as high as 3.55's >>
I. Oh, 3.73 is the differential…okay, what is that, again? (Clearly I’m not ashamed to ask questions, right? I’d rather look stupid now than stupid when I’m hauling!)
<<3. Yep, a 2WD Expy is cheaper to buy, insure, maintain and has ride & handling advantages as well. BUT if you do go 2WD DEMAND the Limited Slip rear end as one spinning wheel is no good.>>
I. So, how do I ensure that I have the right differential (I’m assuming higher is better,) limited slip, class IV tow (I think I’ll end up with a III and need to change it out…) Any markings anywhere? I’m likely going to be getting this via a smaller dealer who goes to auctions. He’s guaranteeing it for me, so the more specific I get, (the crazier I’ll make him, no, kidding,) the better of a truck he’ll get.
<<AND MAKE SURE to get the 5.4L, thats a heavy load your planing for and you'll need the extra torque>>
J. I will.
MY HORSE AND I SAY A MILLION THANKS!!
Julie (and Sinatra)
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,444
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From: DFW, Texas
Wow Julie, you can ramble on better than I can. hehe Just kidding. I'll try to answer some of the questions. I'm tired and I'm sure if I tried to explain axle ratio's right now it would sound like jiberish.
So here we go.....
A) Wieght Carrying is hooking a trailer up to the hitch and driving off. Hence wieght carrying; just the weight hooked up and off you go. Weight Distributing actualy means you would buy a wieght distributing hitch set up. Try looking at web sites like Reese, Putnam and I'm sure others will chime in. They explain what their WD setup do. Basicly it goes in your receiver just as a regular hitch mount and ball do. But this has like spring bars that attach to the tongue of your trailer. What they do it keep weight of the trailer distributed more evenly on the truck; straight and even. I would say that with a horse trailer where thw weight may not be real even in the trailer, and with a couple thousand pounds moving even slightly, you'd want a WD set up to keep you in better control of the rig. Here, look at this.this It has a good picture of a receiver and trailer tongue with WD setup.
B) A should cover that, or I've rambled you to confusion.
C) I agree. You'd be surprised at how many people tow with under rated parts even hitch *****! I know of a guy that lost a friend to a trailer that hit he and his family head on. The trailer broke away form the car towing it. The $5 hitch ball was not rated for the weight of the trailer, and of course wasn't being towed properly and the ball sheared off. Snap!
D) I'd prefer 3.73 but 3.55 is what I've got and I tow 7500# just fine. I'll leave this to someone that can word smith it better but for example, at 55 MPH with a 3.55 you may be at 1800 RPM. With more weight you may want to be at a little higher RPM at the same speed becasue maybe your engine has more "umph" at say 2100 RPM and you need it wiht more weight. So with a 3.73 you may be at 2100 RPM at 55 MPH. Thois numbers aren't acurate but maybe you gte the idea.
E) See D
F) I'd say stick with a '99 or newer with the 5.4. Much more power. I can compare to some friends that had a '98 until about 2 weeks ago. Their boat is about 1000# lighter than mine and they had a real hard time with it towing. It got 203 MPG less when towing and could get going and stay going very well.
G) Expy equipped right should be fine!!
H) Load Leveling is part of the tow package; at least in 2000 it did, and I'm sure '99 it did too. You can tell if it has it if you find the switch to shut it off by the glove box up under the dash to the right of where the passengers feet would be. Don't trey to drive with it off though. Ouy! Itr also shuts of the variable assist steering. Feels like you're on ice.
I) See you got it!
J) You will honor and cherish.....oh nevermind, I got lost there for a minute.
K) Hope I didn't make things more confusing. Let me know what else I can do; unless I confused you then I'll shut up.
So here we go.....
A) Wieght Carrying is hooking a trailer up to the hitch and driving off. Hence wieght carrying; just the weight hooked up and off you go. Weight Distributing actualy means you would buy a wieght distributing hitch set up. Try looking at web sites like Reese, Putnam and I'm sure others will chime in. They explain what their WD setup do. Basicly it goes in your receiver just as a regular hitch mount and ball do. But this has like spring bars that attach to the tongue of your trailer. What they do it keep weight of the trailer distributed more evenly on the truck; straight and even. I would say that with a horse trailer where thw weight may not be real even in the trailer, and with a couple thousand pounds moving even slightly, you'd want a WD set up to keep you in better control of the rig. Here, look at this.this It has a good picture of a receiver and trailer tongue with WD setup.
B) A should cover that, or I've rambled you to confusion.
C) I agree. You'd be surprised at how many people tow with under rated parts even hitch *****! I know of a guy that lost a friend to a trailer that hit he and his family head on. The trailer broke away form the car towing it. The $5 hitch ball was not rated for the weight of the trailer, and of course wasn't being towed properly and the ball sheared off. Snap!
D) I'd prefer 3.73 but 3.55 is what I've got and I tow 7500# just fine. I'll leave this to someone that can word smith it better but for example, at 55 MPH with a 3.55 you may be at 1800 RPM. With more weight you may want to be at a little higher RPM at the same speed becasue maybe your engine has more "umph" at say 2100 RPM and you need it wiht more weight. So with a 3.73 you may be at 2100 RPM at 55 MPH. Thois numbers aren't acurate but maybe you gte the idea.
E) See D
F) I'd say stick with a '99 or newer with the 5.4. Much more power. I can compare to some friends that had a '98 until about 2 weeks ago. Their boat is about 1000# lighter than mine and they had a real hard time with it towing. It got 203 MPG less when towing and could get going and stay going very well.
G) Expy equipped right should be fine!!
H) Load Leveling is part of the tow package; at least in 2000 it did, and I'm sure '99 it did too. You can tell if it has it if you find the switch to shut it off by the glove box up under the dash to the right of where the passengers feet would be. Don't trey to drive with it off though. Ouy! Itr also shuts of the variable assist steering. Feels like you're on ice.
I) See you got it!
J) You will honor and cherish.....oh nevermind, I got lost there for a minute.
K) Hope I didn't make things more confusing. Let me know what else I can do; unless I confused you then I'll shut up.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 934
Likes: 0
From: Northwest
One important factor to consider and is always listed in hitches, is the tongue weight. You can have identical trailers weighing in at 5,000 lbs., but one could have a tongue weight of 200 lbs., while the other could have well over 500 lbs. It's all about how the weight is distributed on the trailer. Putting to much weight up front will give you a lot of tongue weight, while loading it way towards the back will make the tongue very light. A good even balance is ideal and don't exceed the maximum tongue weight for your hitch.
It seems the best approach for you, would be to go to a reputable trailer shop in your town, and discuss what you are planning to do. They should be able to hook you up with the proper accessories to make your towing experience an easy and enjoyable one. I've towed many boats with many different vehicles and I've had some that felt like you were wrestling it all the way to your destination and others (this is ideal) where I hardly even noticed I had a trailer behind me.
Good luck in your decision on the proper set up. It will pay to do it right the first time.
It seems the best approach for you, would be to go to a reputable trailer shop in your town, and discuss what you are planning to do. They should be able to hook you up with the proper accessories to make your towing experience an easy and enjoyable one. I've towed many boats with many different vehicles and I've had some that felt like you were wrestling it all the way to your destination and others (this is ideal) where I hardly even noticed I had a trailer behind me.
Good luck in your decision on the proper set up. It will pay to do it right the first time.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
please add to above . . .tongue weight = the amount of weight that the trailer tongue (part that connects to the hitch ball) applies to the ball. tongue weight should be approx 10% of total trailer weight. trailer should have 55-60% of the weight slightly forward of the axle centerline.
3.73 Axle ratio = engine turns (RPM or Revolutions Per Minute) 3.73 times per revolution of the wheel. A numerically high axle ratio (number) will allow the engine to 'work' in the 'meat' of it's powerband at lower trailering speeds. think of your old ten speed bike, it would be mighty hard to pedal up hill if you where in the wrong gear (not enough torque multiplication, ie to few RPM)
You can Identify which gear ratio the truck has by checking the tag on the drivers side door under AXLE, if it's H6 it has the 3.73 Limited Slip Axle
Limited slip means the axle is designed to provide 'limited slip' in the differetial action. All rear axles are designed to provide 'differential action (allow rear wheels to rotae at different speeds) this is needed because as you turn the wheel to the inside of the turn takes a shorter path then the wheel traveling along the outside of the turn. Without this differentail action the tires would scrub or the axle would break. The problem with an 'open' differential is that when one wheel is in a slick spot, it will just spin while the tire that is on firm ground gets no torque. Alimited slip helps by directing a portion of the torque to both rear wheels.
Load Leveling Suspension was not part of the Trailer Towing Package in 1999 but is a very desirable feature for towing. It helps keep the rear end of the truck from sqauting under the load by increasing air pressure in the air springs (which replace conventional coil springs) The easiest and quickest way to see if the truck has Load Leveling Suspension is to look up under the back of the truck. If you see COIL SPRINGS, the truck doesn't have it.
3.73 Axle ratio = engine turns (RPM or Revolutions Per Minute) 3.73 times per revolution of the wheel. A numerically high axle ratio (number) will allow the engine to 'work' in the 'meat' of it's powerband at lower trailering speeds. think of your old ten speed bike, it would be mighty hard to pedal up hill if you where in the wrong gear (not enough torque multiplication, ie to few RPM)
You can Identify which gear ratio the truck has by checking the tag on the drivers side door under AXLE, if it's H6 it has the 3.73 Limited Slip Axle
Limited slip means the axle is designed to provide 'limited slip' in the differetial action. All rear axles are designed to provide 'differential action (allow rear wheels to rotae at different speeds) this is needed because as you turn the wheel to the inside of the turn takes a shorter path then the wheel traveling along the outside of the turn. Without this differentail action the tires would scrub or the axle would break. The problem with an 'open' differential is that when one wheel is in a slick spot, it will just spin while the tire that is on firm ground gets no torque. Alimited slip helps by directing a portion of the torque to both rear wheels.
Load Leveling Suspension was not part of the Trailer Towing Package in 1999 but is a very desirable feature for towing. It helps keep the rear end of the truck from sqauting under the load by increasing air pressure in the air springs (which replace conventional coil springs) The easiest and quickest way to see if the truck has Load Leveling Suspension is to look up under the back of the truck. If you see COIL SPRINGS, the truck doesn't have it.