Expedition / Navigator

Blown Sub Woofer

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 20, 2008 | 04:43 PM
  #1  
chizmon's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Ontario/Canada
Blown Sub Woofer

I cant figure out how to get at the sub woofer on my 98 EB Expy. Does anyone know if the cover just pops off? I tried but don't wanna break any clips.
 
Reply
Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:00 PM
  #2  
98Navi's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Its a bitch of a job. You have to remove that rear quarter inner panel. It requires removal of the seatbelt, rear molding, etc... cause the dam thing has a single 8 or 10mm screw holding it in from the back.
 
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 10:13 AM
  #3  
chizmon's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Ontario/Canada
Thanks Navi, Any spot easiest to start from? Do you know what size it is?
 
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:53 PM
  #4  
ehhole's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
I didn't have to remove the entire piece on my 97 EB... All you have to do is pry on the panel that covers it. The first time you remove it, it's pretty hard, but after that (when it isnt a virgin anymore ) it's a bit easier... I recommend using a very wide flat-head screwdriver, or you can by an interior panel remover... I saw a kit the other day at wal-mart for car stereo installation, it had a few tools including a really nice panel remove for about $15. I removed mine to disconnect the factory sub when I put aftermarket ones in... then to reconnect when I took the aftermarket ones out... now I'm getting ready to disconnect it again for aftermarket subs... I should probably make up my mind.
 
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:28 PM
  #5  
98Navi's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Just start with the easiest and remove everything that gets in the way during the removal. You don't have to fully remove that panel, but if its your first time you're gonna be really pissed if you don't. Your hands will be battered and your patience tested. And just when you think its gonna come out, it doesn't
 
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:33 PM
  #6  
98Navi's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
These are the worded instructions from alldatapro. The pictures help alot but I don't have the time to copy them all to post them here. Good luck

Remove the liftgate door opening weather seal.

Remove the liftgate scuff plate.
If equipped, remove the third row seat.

Remove the rear header garnish trim panel.

Remove the rear door scuff plates.
Fold down the second row seat.

Remove the cross car scuff plate.

Remove the second row safety belt guide nut.
1 Lift the cover.
2 Remove the nut.

Remove the second row safety belt lower nut.

Remove the C-pillar trim panel.
Remove the rear door opening weather seal.
Remove the C-pillar trim panel.
NOTE: Remove the upper attachments followed by the lower attachment and the lower rear hook.

If equipped, remove the third row safety belt guide.
1 Lift the cover.
2 Use Safety Belt Bolt Bit to remove the safety belt guide bolt.
3 Remove the third row safety belt guide.

Remove the D-pillar trim panel.
Remove the liftgate door opening weather seal.
NOTE: Remove the lower hook attached to the quarter trim panel, followed by the top attachment, and then the lower rear attachment.

Remove the quarter trim panel.
1 Remove the screws and pin-type retainer.
2 Remove the quarter trim panel.
 
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:50 PM
  #7  
ehhole's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Yeah, do all of the above if you enjoy wasting time and taking **** apart that's hard to get back together.

Pry the cover off in 30 seconds and be done.
 
Reply

Trending Topics

Old Mar 24, 2008 | 02:59 PM
  #8  
98Navi's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Lol, tear cover off, crack plastic, spend $500 on new parts to replace broken parts cause I was to fawkin lazy to DO IT RIGHT the first time. That ingenious, you should call Ford and tell them how its done!
 
Reply
Old Mar 27, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #9  
chizmon's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Ontario/Canada
Thanks for all the info Navi

ehhole,
The point of asking how I should go about doing this is to NOT bust the clips off and have to replace it.
 
Reply
Old Apr 8, 2008 | 11:42 AM
  #10  
69vetteguy's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Middle GA
When I replaced mine I was able to pry up the trim enough from towards the second row of seats to get my hand behind the speaker to unscrew the *$^# screw. Luckily I was able to remove it with just my hand.
 
Reply
Old Apr 19, 2008 | 07:10 PM
  #11  
chizmon's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Ontario/Canada
Well, I finally had some nice weather and spare time. I grabbed some beers and my tools and went to town. The 8" factory sub turned out to be a little bigger than the after market one. The mounting holes wouldn't line up properly so I had to make new ones. I just got some cheap $25 pyramid sub because I didn't think the factory amp would push a good sub properly. Anyone know what the power rating on the amp is?
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:41 AM.