I know this subject is beat to death in here, but need suggestions on:
1) Is it time to replace my shocks? almost 40k miles on an 2k EB 2WD with LLS & 5.4. Just started to get a very small squeek when going down our gravel drivway with sm potholes (so during up down travel) I just assume small squeek is going to develop into a larger one eventually.
2) Is it still possible to do some sorta "bounce" test or does the LLS prevent that, or is that an old wives tale.
3) Opnions on what/where to get them replaced if it's time, and a ball park $ of what I'm looking at. Go to Dealer, Sears, etc.

From what I've read on here Rancho's and Edelbrocks seem to be some favorites. I'm looking for a smoother ride vs off-road handeling. 90% of my driving is a 5mi ea way trip to/from work on country roads (1 mi between stop signs, but not highway smooth)

I'm also fixin' to take the X out on it's first real road trip, about 350 mi from home, in about a month. Anything else I should look at before heading out?

Thanks for any input.

Bryan

 

Bryan,

I had Edlebrocks and was very hapy with them. I also had HD OEM shocks and was surprised that there wasn't more difference in the Edelbrocks. The OEM HD's were pretty good. The Edlebrocks "did" improve rebound a great deal though.

FYI, I have a few parts form my 2000 Expy. if you are interested. I have the Superchips module in the classifieds. You may have the ZUT2 PCM code. I also still have the OEM shocks as well. Funny thing, I was in Okla. this wekend and my bro-in-law who lives in the City was there as well. I could have had them delivered to you.

 

I have a 2003 F-150 Super Crew.

Replaced the shocks at 37,000 miles and the left rear was completely destroyed.

I replaced the orignals with Rancho RSX from Sams OffRoad Equipment. Cost about $149 for a set of four. Did the work myself. It is relatively easy.

Do a search for "Shock Installation". You will get a number of returns to your search but look at one thread entitled "Ranch RS9000X installed on 2001 screw". This pretty well explains the process. Just one tip. Jack up car, put it on jack stands and take off the wheels. Makes it much easier. The whole job can be done in less than two hours.

 

If you have the LLS (rear only on 2wd) I am pretty sure that your choices may still be limited to OEM brand. I may be wrong on that but it used to be that Ford was still the only one selling the air ride shocks. At least that's the way it was with the 4x4's with LLS.

 

That's true for front shocks for the 4x4 with LLS. 2WD you're OK, although I think only Bilstein has a specific part number for each front and rear shocks. I used Edlebrocks but their application guides "were" not very clear and Edlebrock wouold dance around the question leaving it just as unclear. I ran them anyway.

 

You might want to do some digging at their website (Edelbrock or Rancho) for the 2WD, non-LLS, there are different part numbers for the front and rear.
Below is the pricing from Summit for my 01 2WD non-LLS

Part #
Item
Price
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDL-3322
Ford: 1997-2001 Expedition, 2WD, front, Performer IAS, shock
$69.95ea

EDL-3422
Ford: 1997-2001 Expedition, 2WD, rear, Performer IAS, shock
$69.95ea

HEL-7624
Ford: 1997-2002 Expedition/Navigator, 1 in. diameter, rear sway bar
$129.69ea

 

Thanks ya'all

Family Ride, so you used edelbrocks all around even tho you have rear LLS? What model #'s did you use on the rear (if you remember) I just ordered a pair of 3322's for the front from Carolina Classic Trucks (took PayPal and cheaper than local stores). Edlebrocks' sitr says something like 3424's for the rear of a non LLS.

Thanks

Is this a simple DIY project? I haven't changed shocks since my '66 Mustang about 10 years ago.

Bryan

 

I used the ones that were listed for the rear, non-LLS. The application guide only said specificly "4 Wheel LLS" and that's where Edlebrock would not discuss specifics.

As for DIYT, sure. Keep the straps on them until you have them mounted on the posts. Also, dropp the spare to get the right rear (or is it left) either way, it'll help a lot. Also, the right rear bolt is a bear to get tight. If you start hearing a knocking in the rear, more than likely it's slightly loose.

Good luck!

 

Well I got 'em in, had the wife drive another truck to work so I'd have a free dat to work on the truck, then some things came up delayed my start time a few hours. Then went to remore the top nut and the shock, of course, spun. I tried every wrench I had, and a cresent won't fit unther the shock tower. So a quick trip to Sam's Club, grabed a set of wrenches. get home and start again, now pushin' 90 degrees out, and wouldn't you know itm 3/4 to small, 7/8 to big, and largest metric, 19mm, was too small!!! AArrgghh!
So I called a couple of local tire stores, and one said no way, jose, the other said sure we'll install them for you for $15.00/ea. I just spent $30 for the wrenches at sams, so not a bad deal. And I don't have to sweat through the heat :-) And while they're at it I'll have them grease up the wheel bearings.

So hope to try again tommorow! Will update how it feels after the fact!

Bryan