Hey guys, if you're like me and have a 2009/2010 F150 and are a little hesitant to rip it open and figure out how to do the infamous Gotts mod on your truck, I'll save you some time. I've heard several people offer different ways of doing the mod on the '09/'10, but I think this one is the easiest.

Time: about 10 minutes.

Difficulty: novice

What you'll need:

• Flat blade screwdriver OR 8mm wrench/hex head
• 13mm wrench

1) Remove the negative terminal from the battery with either the flat blade screwdriver or the 8mm wrench.

This resets the engine computer so it will recalibrate with the increased airflow..and prevents other bad things that may happen when messing with the electrical equipment.




2) Remove the Mass Air Flow Sensor Cable and Loosen the nearby hose clamp (8mm / flat-blade bolt).




3) Release the 3 clips that hold the top of the air filter box and remove the assembly from the rest of the intake.




4) Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the lower part of the air filter box to the truck.



5) Remove the lower portion of the air filter box by pulling it strait up. At this point it is held in by just two plastic nubs resting in rubber grommets (see second picture down).

BE CAREFUL NOT TO RIP THE COOLANT HOSE WHEN YOU PULL OUT THE ASSEMBLY. IT WILL ALL OF A SUDDEN JUST COME OUT. YOU'VE BEEN WARNED.



Rubber grommets that are holding the box in:





6) Remove the snorkel from the air filter box. Do this by pressing down on the inside tab of the snorkel while pulling from the outside.



7) Put everything back the way it came out and you're done! Very simple, nothing that can't be undone if need be.

The snorkel you'll pull out:



Like I said, the whole process shouldn't take more than about 10 minutes. To be honest, I haven't noticed much of a difference in throttle response or power, but according to ASEMechanic, there is indeed some advantage to doing this:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ts-2009-a.html

 

Great write up!

 

Wicked!!! This is exactly the writeup I was looking for.

Nope to get something out of this... but if not, it certainly can be undone by putting it back in.

THANKS

 

I just posted in another thread, but I was looking for the same kind of writeup, so thank you! What I didn't do before when I did this was remove the negative terminal to correct for the air/fuel ratio. Not doing that resulted in a nice little bit of throttle response and sound. After reading this thread, I disconnected the terminal this morning before heading out. Doing that has pretty much wiped out the responsiveness and the added sound, but I maybe gained 1mpg at the most.

 

Just did this mod. Couple questions though:

1. When removing the MAF sensor, is it recommended to 'unplug' the sensor using the clips or just unscrew it using the two star bolts?

(I just unscrewed it completely from the tube and already had the negative lead unscrewed. Did a test drive but didn't notice a whole lot in the "butt dyno" dept.)

2. Is the 10 mins it takes to do this mod long enough to leave the battery unplugged?


One other mod I would add to this is once you have already removed the snorkel and bolted the airbox back in place (but before putting the filter back), take some clear packing tape and tape those rubber mat edges up and over into the airbox itself. This way the airflow is completely unobstructed and has an easy entry into the box. Thought about taking pics but I think 09/10 owners will know what I'm talking about when they do this mod.

Hope this is beneficial to anyone out there...

 

1) You can just pull that red tab on the MAF out towards you. It's very easy that way.

2) I had the negative unhooked for less than a minute and it was enough to reset it.


What I would like to see is if anyone found a way to take it one step further and add a larger diameter pipe back in it's place. It looks like a pain because of the odd shape that's left in the airbox, but I know I read someone did it. They just didn't post pics.

 

The large diameter pipe really shouldn't do much since filling in the gap around the round pipe would effectively decrease the size of the opening. That being said, I'm not an aerospace engineer, perhaps having the round pipe helps the air travel with less resistance.

 

I'm just thinking to draw air like it's intended and not having to contend with the rubber flap.

 

Ah ha! Used a flat tip to pull out the tab and, consequently, the sensor itself. This sounds like a better way compared to the "just unscrew it" technicality... Unplugged the negative once again, just to be sure. We'll see if any effect on the morning drive.

And another thought: I noticed the tubing after the MAF has 5 of those Hemholtz-whatever's that take away the droning commonly associated with CAI's. What if a company out there made a completely smooth tube all the way back to the TB if you didn't care about drone and just wanted it to breathe a little better? Would that affect A/F's, which, in turn, would necessitate a custom tune? I would think not since the MAF sensor is before the hemholtz's....

Again, just a thought...

 

I had thought before (and posted on a thread somewhere) about just removing that stuff and going to the tuner section of the local auto parts store and getting some aluminum intake tubing and elbows and rubber sleeves. Some say that aluminum for intake tubing is less effective than ABS plastic like what's on there now. But I'd like to see someone try it. Should be really easy and more cost effective than a full on replacement CAI.

 

Good detailed write up.

As an alternative, you can also remove the snorkel by pulling the drivers side headlight and reaching in and pulling down on the snorkel. Only have to remove two bolts that way.

 

I started at the tail lights and took the car apart around it. 3 days later, a few busted knuckles, a voided warranty, and truck parts spread across my front lawn, I finally got the snorkel out.

I think I took the wrong approach....

HAHAHA!!! J/K

Sweet mod though. I like the droning.

 

so after the snorkel removal, there'll just be an empty gap b/t the fender wall and the air box?

btw, thanks for the step by step!!

 

yeah, there will be a gap. its not a big gap though, so i can't imagine it would have any negative effect

 

THanks for the how-to. I did the job in roughly 10 minutes... the snorkel does take a little effort to remove but its a piece of cake overall.