Back from Xmas vacation...Good thing I can keep the truck off this off this long or is it a good thing??.

The start motor is coming out now to get this last nut. I will keep you posted.

Mike

 

If I had it to do over I would try a wobble extension and socket on that last nut. Maybe I could get a better angle.

 

Ok Manifold is off...Had to literally hack the finally nut off.

Taking the manifold off was also not as easy as I thought. I really had to play with the exhaust pipe to be able to pull the manifold off with the studs still in.

I removed 2 more studs. I am down to 3 left. I soaked them with PB Blaster and will go at it tonight.

I do have a question, I bought the exhaust manifold kit from Dorman products and it came with 4 studs, 4 nuts, 2 gaskets and 1 manifold. This may be obivious but I want to confirm I only need 1 gasket. Also, it is clear to me the studs and nuts in the kits are for the manifold/flange connection.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...tegory_list=:0

I guess I need the exhaust manifold stud and nuts still.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...rid=0x002d13a0

Lastly, do I need a 'donut' for the flange/manifold connection? There wasn't one when I removed the manifold.

Thanks for all you help guys. I am almost done the job and I couldn't have done this without you.

Cheers,

Mike

 

I have confirmed via another post the donut gasket no longer applies.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...t=donut+gasket

Thanks,

Mike

 

I also got 2 gaskets (in box) but I had already bought fel-pro gaskets and used them. Also got 2 extra diff sized studs.
Only thing I can say about gaskets is compare to org and go with that. I bought 8 studs and nuts for $50 from Ford on line. I used lots of copper anti-seize on every thing.
I had to leave out two rear studs on last cyl to get manifold back in. Still needed a crowbar to force into place. The y-pipe doesn't give much. I put them back in after the manifold was in place.

 

wow those manifolds are bad. Mine weren't that bad. Though my drivers side had 1 bolt holding it, but it was about 1/8 thick. I had ford motorsport headers installed. Worst part was the egr tube. You didn't know where the tube and nut went into the manifold. Just 1 lump of rust.

 

Got all the studs out...Had to weld a nut on 2 studs.

Where do I find the torque values?

 

Torgue studs in cylinder head to 71-115 lb-in (8-13 N-m). Torque nuts on studs to 204-239 lb-in (23-27 N-m).
as per Ford service tip when using stock parts.
I had to weld nut on 2 studs also. Its been a real fun experience hasn't it?
I'm glad you made it without one breaking even with the head.....

 

Well I finished the project this weekend. The truck is back together and seems to be fine. Here is a summary of what I needed to do to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold.

Removal:
- remove tire (This makes it a ton easier to work)
- remove inner fender cover (some screws [6mm socket] and body plugs)
- I disconnect both the negative and positive cables from the battery.
- sprayed nuts with PB blaster and let soak for a while (order of days/weeks)
- removed the nuts using Canadian Tire bolt extractors. I have 7 nuts to remove since the 8th stud was broken about 1 inch about the surface.
- 1 stud came out with the nut
- 6 other nuts came off
- last nut didn't come off. This was the bottom nut closest to the flange. I removed the starter motor (2 bolts, nut on ground cable and than nut/stud). I used a dremel tool with extension and cutting disk to cut off half the nut.
- I had to cut the stud that still remained on the flange (the other one was broken off already)
- Removing the manifold was tough. I had to pull the exhaust pipe away from the header while working the manifold over the studs. This require a bit of effort but it eventually came off.
- As mentioned, one stud came out with the nut. 2 others came out with a bolt extractor socket on the end of the stud. 3 others came out with the double nut technique. The last 2 studs had to have a nut welded on the end of it and many thanks to a good friend that is a good welder.
- With all the studs out I sanded the surface of the header as well as the end of the exhaust pipe.

Installation:
- Before installing the manifold I re-installed the starter motor since with the manifold out of the way, the top bolt on the start motor is very easy to get too. I also re-connected the battery and slapped a charger on the battery just in case it needed a bit of juice.
- Installing the manifold was tricky. I installed the 4 bottom studs. I also installed the top stud furthest away from the flange.
- place the gasket over the studs.
- I had to pull on the exhaust pipe while trying to gently push the manifold over the studs. I tried not to damage the stud threads as well as not bend the gasket. This took alot of effort but if you take your time it does go. I used a 6 foot piece of strong cloth to pull on the exhaust pipe with one hand. This was easy on the hands and the exhaust pipe. I used anti-seize on the studs.
- Once the manifold was over the five studs I lined up the gasket and installed the remaining 3 studs (this was really easy even with the manifold in place).
- With all the studs in and torque to 9 ft-lbs I installed the nuts. I carefully snugged the nuts all up before slowly working each one tight. Evenually I torque them done to 18 ft-lbs (or there abouts). Take you time and rotate through the nuts such that the gasket is evenly compressed.
- Once all the nuts were torque done, I install the studs in the manifold by the flange. I wasn't able to torque these down but I simply snugged them up.
- I carefully lined up the flange and installed the nuts but hand.
- Alternating between each nut I slowly torque them. Due to the space I had to use a socket wrench and a make shift extension bar to torque these nuts.
- I have no idea the actually torque but the specs call for 30 ft-lbs. I know I am more than that cause after the first attempt I started the truck and it leaked at the flange so I torque them even more till there was no leak with the engine cold. I hope this doesn't come back to haunt me later.
- Once I checked everything over for leaks, I put the tire back on as well as the inner fender back.

So the job is done. It was interesting to say the least. I am clearly no a mechanic and still have lots to learn but I am glad I did this job. I learned so much and do have much respect to for you guys and gals that do this day after day.

Cheers,

Mike

 

conrgrats. you just saved yourself like 800$. after that you can call yourself at least a shadetree mechanic lol.