I got some AERO-KROIL, Ford studs ($4.14) nuts $1.07 new style. Ordered RT exhaust manifold $60. But Partstrain and Rockauto are out of stock. I was impressed by 3 days to get nuts/studs from online Ford Dealer.

www.fordpartsonline.com

 

I ended up getting the new manifold with gaskets and studs for the y-pipe for $73. My buddy charged me $150 for the removal of all the old crap, and installation of the new stuff.

$223 and I'm a very happy camper.

I told him I'll be back if I hear the driver's side making noise.......LOL

Steve

 

$223 is way better than $717 Ford est. I got. I'm trying to decide whether to wait on Rockauto or check with online Ford Dealer.

I will change driver's side in spring as preventive maintence.

 

Per the best machiene shop man in the area: Take a nut slightly bigger than the on that came off of it and weld it on to the end (let the welder get as hot as it wants). Then use that nut to remove it. Kroil/aerokroil are supposidly the best penetrating fluids, but bp blaster and brake fluid are also great. A pair of vise grips or pipe wrench also work well after the stud being heated and throughly sprayed with penetrating fluid.

 

you are right about one thing, you could be wrong. it expands the metal out side of the stud, and frees it up, making it easier to turn out

 

Well I did my right side with 1 broken stud. I soaked nuts with Aero Kroil and PB Blaster for 1 month. That was no help at all. 6 studs came out with nuts (best way). I rounded off lower rear nut and had to cut off nut with moto tool and special bit.

I couldn't get exhaust pipe nuts off either and cut off with small hacksaw.
I tryed oil and heat, tapping. I used new vise grips, a clamp type stud remover. 2 type's of Sear's stud removers and no go. It just shaved metal off the studs.

I welded a nut on 1 stud and twisted it off easily with wrench. I then brazed 2 more nuts on each stud and twisted off. I brazed on 2 more nuts right next to the head (all the stud I had left). With some efford both started out. It toke some trying to get in new manifold because of exhaust pipe being in the way (Y pipe still connected to driver's side exhaust) I had to take out 2 new studs in left most cyl. and use a crow bar.

Parts List: 8 ea W703902-S403 Stud, 8 ea W701706-S2 nut cost $51 online dealer.
Exhaust Manifold Dorman 674-559 $72 from Rockauto Gasket Fel-Pro MS 92568 $10 Auto-Zone.

I sprayed 2 coats of gray High-Tem. header paint on the manifold and used copper based anti-seize on everything.

I did not take off anything other than the fender liner and tire. I used a Torx E7 socket to turn in new studs.

Next spring I will change driver's side as PM (none broken yet) I may try changing 1 stud at a time and not manifold if not leaking.

There is a lot of ways this can play out, but this is how it went for me, I didn't like getting under there with a torch (used small tip) and I have no wire welder.

 

Whatever you do, don't break an EZ-Out extractor off in a stud that is flush with the head. After breaking $50 worth of carbide drill bits off trying to drill out the EZ-Out (gives a new meaning to Hardened Steel), a little Makita with a tungsten bit saved the day! Went through it like butter, I couldn't believe it. Had to re-tap the head, but all is well!

 

If your stud in sticking above the surface, as you described, i would advise welding a nut on the stud. Granted, you will break a few nuts before one grabs. However, if you are not comfortable with welding, another solution is to drill the stud out. First, grind or cut the stud flush with the head. One of the problems of drilling studs out, is the fear of slipping off into the head and harming or damaging the head. Another fear is going to deep in the stud and slipping into the water jacket. If you are confident in drilling, drill out the stud. The Drill Bit will have trouble drilling. This is because the stud gets hardened. Once your hole is drilled, tap in your extractor, or a T20 Torx Bit, then back out the stud. Sometimes a stud will move, and then stop. This is because once your hole is drilled, the threads break and a little bur will be left on the end of the stud. This bur will lodge itself into the head. The stud will not come out if that happens.